taildragger

Allright, so after having to fiddle with my battery connections, and seeing acid boil off from the post, I've decided that I should get new batteries... and probably new cables.

Main question that I have is where should I get the cables? Are the regular ones from O'Reily gonna do the job, and if so, what length should I get?

Also, what battery should I be looking at. All the gel batteries that I have looked at are roughly the price of an optima red top. Is a gel battery the way to go, especially if I'm looking at moving to Minnesota? Lastly, what about lead acid batteries, I saw one rated for 1000CCA at the wal-mart for 63.00 (the yellow ones, I can't remember what it was called though), or should I just move away from them (I'd like to lose corrosion issues, especially since it has claimed my cruise control...)

Should I replace both batteries at the same time? My drivers side battery I have my doubts about, but the passenger battery looks fine (almost no corrosion)

Lastly, what range of CCA should I be looking at?

cumminspower79

If it were me, I would go to the dealer for the cables. It might be pricey but then you will know that all the extra wires will be hooked up right. Just changed my batteries about 1 month ago, got the bosch replacments by application. They are basically just like the originals, except I think the CCA are a little bit higher.

jturuk

When my OEM wetcells were spent, I purchased a pair of jobber batteries (brand name "Maxcell"). It was a terrible experience. These batteries continually pushed small amounts of acid out the vents and ruined my cable ends, battery hold down hardware and started to chew through a wiring harness under the battery carrier (I'm praying that I don't start having some electrical issues because of this). I purchased a pair of Optima Red Tops at the local Walmart and haven't looked back. They are perfoming great so far. I would stay as far away as you can from a wet cell type battery for your truck unless you went back to an OEM battery. It must be something with the charging systems, the grid heaters cycling or something that causes these trucks to be so finicky about the type of battery used. I checked the system voltage and it was normal by the way.

Good luck with your purchase

John

1999 24v CTD

Geico266

Get a Battery Minder to desulfate your batteries also. They will last 2-3 times longer. Even Red Tops.

Tate

For cables, the dealer wanted between $6-800 for 4 cables. Needless to say, I wasn't going to pay that. I eventually found a place that can do crimp on ends (in a city of 1 Million people, you'd think it would be a simple task), and had my worst cable redone with welding cable. Just take your cables out if you're getting them redone, 30 minutes to take all 4 out, and much less likely of having a SNAFU, due to a bad measurement.

As for batteries themselves, I bought a set of bigger than OEM wet cells. 1200 CA, 975 CCA. So far so good. I was thinking Optimas, but I didn't have $450 on me, and I've also heard that gel batteries aren't the greatest in cold climates.

Mike Stowe

When the dealer's prices make you run out the door, try this guy.

http://www.custombatterycables.com/a.../dodge_ram.htm

pind

I build all my own cables out of 2/0 welding cable. I find they outlast, and overall outperform anything commercially available in my area. I have been doing this for 20 years now, and even my older sets are still working fine. I also use solder on ends, rather than the crimp style, I then coat the bare wire area in liquid electrical tape, then heat shrink tubing. I have not had any corrosion issues to date, even on bad batteries.

Just food for thought, from a less than bright spark.

TxDiesel007

sounds like a plan

ive been having the same issues with mine.What i do is simply use the red battery spray on mine to help keep them clean. I did have to change out my connections, but i do stay on top of them..

How much tho, for a dealer set of OEM cables, (dare i ask?)

Rick

Mike Stowe

The cheapest I found was $600 online.

GearHd6

This guys stuff is the best you can get. I bought his cables for my 96 Ram and they're awesome. Super heavy duty and everything bolts up nice.

taildragger

Well, after the old wet batteries nearly bit the bullet (barely cranked over this morning, I bit the bullet and went with NAPA orbitals. Didn't seem like a bad price, and I liked the gel battery design (didn't know how most other wet cells would act, I was just tired of acid under the hood and didn't want to deal with it anymore). Thanks for all the help everyone.

TxDiesel007

At this price

mr custom batterys sound so much nicer... I think ill give them a call.. or email.. thanks!

Rick

Stamey

Just finding out tonight that my right side battery on my 96 is toast. Gonna take it back for a replacement tomorrow, under warranty.

Tell me more about this desulfate thing. I hav enever heard of it and want to maek sure it isn't snake oil before I proceed.
On the "battery minder", will just one work for both batteries on my Ram? Does this work for deep-cycle batteries? The one on my dump trailer doesn't seem to hold a charge long.

Thanks,
Chris

caper

Who has a procidure for soldiering on battery cable ends , or has anyone done it before on here , like what type of soldier and how much . Thanks

Lil Dog

Quick note on batteries. Be sure to get heavy duty batterys. The extra cost is worth it for the battery if it has a stronger case, better tray for the plates and heavier posts. The vibration from the CTD will eat up a conventional battery for a car. Also the small 1000 CCA batteries may not last long either as if you want more amps, you need more plates. If there are more plates crammed in the same box there isn't alot of clearance between them. They can vibrate and short together which reduces the CCA's in short order.

The extra cost is worth it to not have to replace them on an annual basis. If you are replacing one, replace both. The older battery over time, will degrade the newer battery until they are both in the same state of age.

FWIW.