ball joints suspension
03-25-2004, 07:10 AM
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ball joints suspension
I know i have seen links to better than stock aftermarket suspension parts.
I can tell I have at least one bad ball joint so I thought I would replace all 4 with aftermarket upgrades TIA
Is this something I could possibly do? the truck is fairly rust free being it was from TX. I do my own disc brakes and on my 95 I replaced the front hub (bearing,rotor) assembly and with how rusted it was it was a pain but if I would of taken it in they would have tried to rake me over with finding every problem in the world on my OLD 95. sometimes though certain things are better left to the shop like rear brakes for me I have a tough time with so I take it in for them. I could rent the tools but that does not guarantee it will be any easier.
I can tell I have at least one bad ball joint so I thought I would replace all 4 with aftermarket upgrades TIA
Is this something I could possibly do? the truck is fairly rust free being it was from TX. I do my own disc brakes and on my 95 I replaced the front hub (bearing,rotor) assembly and with how rusted it was it was a pain but if I would of taken it in they would have tried to rake me over with finding every problem in the world on my OLD 95. sometimes though certain things are better left to the shop like rear brakes for me I have a tough time with so I take it in for them. I could rent the tools but that does not guarantee it will be any easier.
03-25-2004, 07:33 PM
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I just got done with my ball joints this week-end. Not hard to do if you have a ball joint press and another pair of hands.
1. Get a service manual (haynes, etc.)
2. C-clamp style ball joint press kit( has adapters for different ball joints)
3. A large set of sockets (upto 1 3/4(should be metric though))
The most helpfull trick ive learned with this is how to get the possibly rusted hub/rotor assembly out of the steering knuckle. Remove outside hub nut and the four 12 POINT bolts on the back of the hub.Driver side example: Turn wheel to the right. Turn the axle so the inside knuckle is up-down. Place a socket between the outside knucke and the axle housing. Start truck and straighten steering wheel. Hub should come right out. Pull out the axle shaft CAREFULLY straight out. After that you remove the steering knuckle with ball joints (hammer helps). Put in the new joints.
I was quoted $800 at a good front end shop to do all four ball joints and the passenger axle seal.
I replaced both axle seals, cleaned out axle and ring gears, replaced front diff oil, 4 ball joints, turned rotors, new pads and calipers, and even greased a front end fittings for a staggering $300. Doing things yourself saves money, and makes sure it was done right.
All in all, easy job, i would say its a DIY.
1. Get a service manual (haynes, etc.)
2. C-clamp style ball joint press kit( has adapters for different ball joints)
3. A large set of sockets (upto 1 3/4(should be metric though))
The most helpfull trick ive learned with this is how to get the possibly rusted hub/rotor assembly out of the steering knuckle. Remove outside hub nut and the four 12 POINT bolts on the back of the hub.Driver side example: Turn wheel to the right. Turn the axle so the inside knuckle is up-down. Place a socket between the outside knucke and the axle housing. Start truck and straighten steering wheel. Hub should come right out. Pull out the axle shaft CAREFULLY straight out. After that you remove the steering knuckle with ball joints (hammer helps). Put in the new joints.
I was quoted $800 at a good front end shop to do all four ball joints and the passenger axle seal.
I replaced both axle seals, cleaned out axle and ring gears, replaced front diff oil, 4 ball joints, turned rotors, new pads and calipers, and even greased a front end fittings for a staggering $300. Doing things yourself saves money, and makes sure it was done right.
All in all, easy job, i would say its a DIY.
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