silverbullet_65

My '97 auto 4wd needs new ball joints all around. At 144,000 miles I suppose I didn't do too badly. I found this article that addresses how to do it for a Dana 44.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/balljoint.php

Is there anything different on my truck than what is mentioned in this article? I'm also going to do new rotors/pads on the truck while it is apart.
Thanks

Racer9

Couple differences from my '96. The BJ's in the pics are upside down, and attached to the axle. On mine they pointed up, and came off with the spindle. Best to pull the hub seperately from the axle, unless you're the Hulk.
Be sure to check the axle u-joints, so you don't have to take it apart again later.

Mike Stowe

Here's a write up a buddy of mine did when he replaced his...
http://www.tinbenders.org/articles.php?wgo=show&wval=2

silverbullet_65

Thanks for the tinbender link. That will be of more help when working on my truck than the one with the Dana 44 in it. The universal joints went out at 110,000, so they've already been done.

I have a couple follow up questions.

Truck has needed new brakes and rotors for quite some time so that's getting done as well. Advance has Wearever brand rotors for around $40 bucks and then Raybestos for $70-95. Worth the extra money or just paying more for the name? I've had decent luck with the cheap brand brake pads in the past, but not sure about rotors.

Does anyone have the part number of the GM rear wheel cylinder? Rear brakes on this truck have always been a joke and I might finally do that mod while the rears are apart for new brake shoes.

I see quite a bit of info posted about the Luke's Link to repair the trackbar. I haven't checked mine yet but it's the factory trackbar. Is putting the Luke Link on it worth the time? I don't want to drop all this cash on the BJ's and still have an alignment problem, so I'm leaning towards doing it. Truck has been ruining my tires for 10,000 miles or so.

Thanks for all the help

Mcmopar

NAPA Part Number

Wheel cylinders 4637337

95black2615

The luke's link is worth the money.

To check your factory track bar, have someone in the truck to move the steering wheel back and forth while you are underneath looking at all the steering components. You will most likely see the trackbar moving (slop) where it attaches to the frame.

Make sure it is a factory trackbar or a NAPA trackbar. If it is a MOOG trackbar the lukes link wont work. The moog has a 2" ball joint on it which is a bit larger than the factory bar. May as well order the poly bushing on the other end of the bar as well when you order the link (less than $10).

~Angry Tractor~

I recently rebuilt my track bar with Lukes Links. Pretty easy work and it can be shimmed out later. I got the neoprene bushing too. I think it was like $85 all together. NAPA here wanted $155 for a new bar. I like the way it handles now.

Racer9

I'm running Wearever pads, they seem OK. I got the rotor/hub combo from Dodge, and many people warned me about cheap rotors on these heavy trucks.

I have a Thuren Fab track bar http://www.thurenfabrication.com/ , and am real happy with it. You can also get a special bracket to upgrade to the 3rd gen bar, which doesn't have the issues of the 2nd gen bars.