Axle Nut Torque Spec, 98.5?
10-01-2009, 11:17 PM
#1
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Axle Nut Torque Spec, 98.5?
What is the front axle nut torque spec for a 98'5 4x4? I just replaced the brake rotors, calipers, and pads. (What a PITA!!!) In order to break loose the axle nuts, I had to put a 6 ft. long pipe on the breaker bar to get enough leverage to pop'em off.
I researched like mad, but didn't find any definite answer. One was 170 ft. lbs. torque, I found another that said unitl tight, then back off a quarter turn. This is a castle nut with cotter pin.
Because this is a hub bearing assembly, I tightened them down to 170 ft. lbs. and installed the cotter pins, but now it seems like the truck doesn't "free wheel" roll like it used to.
Just trying to make sure that I've done it right, or do I need to back the nuts off a quarter turn after achieving 170 ft. lbs. of torque. Or is it simply the new pads and rotors needing to be worn in. Thank you!
I researched like mad, but didn't find any definite answer. One was 170 ft. lbs. torque, I found another that said unitl tight, then back off a quarter turn. This is a castle nut with cotter pin.
Because this is a hub bearing assembly, I tightened them down to 170 ft. lbs. and installed the cotter pins, but now it seems like the truck doesn't "free wheel" roll like it used to.
Just trying to make sure that I've done it right, or do I need to back the nuts off a quarter turn after achieving 170 ft. lbs. of torque. Or is it simply the new pads and rotors needing to be worn in. Thank you!
10-02-2009, 08:56 AM
#3
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What is the front axle nut torque spec for a 98'5 4x4? I just replaced the brake rotors, calipers, and pads. (What a PITA!!!) In order to break loose the axle nuts, I had to put a 6 ft. long pipe on the breaker bar to get enough leverage to pop'em off.
I researched like mad, but didn't find any definite answer. One was 170 ft. lbs. torque, I found another that said unitl tight, then back off a quarter turn. This is a castle nut with cotter pin.
Because this is a hub bearing assembly, I tightened them down to 170 ft. lbs. and installed the cotter pins, but now it seems like the truck doesn't "free wheel" roll like it used to.
Just trying to make sure that I've done it right, or do I need to back the nuts off a quarter turn after achieving 170 ft. lbs. of torque. Or is it simply the new pads and rotors needing to be worn in. Thank you!
I researched like mad, but didn't find any definite answer. One was 170 ft. lbs. torque, I found another that said unitl tight, then back off a quarter turn. This is a castle nut with cotter pin.
Because this is a hub bearing assembly, I tightened them down to 170 ft. lbs. and installed the cotter pins, but now it seems like the truck doesn't "free wheel" roll like it used to.
Just trying to make sure that I've done it right, or do I need to back the nuts off a quarter turn after achieving 170 ft. lbs. of torque. Or is it simply the new pads and rotors needing to be worn in. Thank you!
10-02-2009, 09:33 AM
#4
You are lucky, I only had a 4 ft cheater bar, what an experience! Put some anti-seize paste on the axle threads. Don't back off the nut on an integrated bearing/hub assembly such as on our trucks. Both the Haynes and TSM says 175 lbs on the axle nuts. Probably your wheels are tight because of the new pads like johnh said, mine are a bit tight after my recent replacement.
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