View Full Version : anyone know why they say to replace
09-07-2007, 02:21 PM
the FCA bolts when your replacing the FCA? Is there something special about these bolts that can't take being tightened twice?
09-07-2007, 02:23 PM
the are very small torx, if i remember t25's. they are pretty soft, and round easy.i havent replaced mine, nor my buddies that i did. however, 1 of his did round and i had to use needle nose vise grips to remove it.
09-08-2007, 05:14 AM
I think sears has some new tool that I can use if the heads get rounded.
I am replacing my FCA Tomorrow. Then if it runs right I am replacing the fuel filter.
09-09-2007, 12:26 AM
what is a FCA?
09-09-2007, 03:17 AM
it is a fuel control actuator. It sits on the back and to the side of the injection pump. They are a t25 size and i had no problem with them stripping. Anything other than a torx screw driver is difficult to get into the right position though. So they are difficult to torque. You are supposed to torque them in two sequences. 27 inch pounds and the 62 inch pounds.
Seemed really tight.
The book says they should rattle when you take it out...Mine didn't and the new one didn't either.
They can be purchased from cummins.
09-09-2007, 02:14 PM
what is the point of removing the fca?
09-16-2007, 06:47 PM
I had several codes going off which included P0088 High fuel rail pressure...the FCA Is one probable cause of this. The Fuel Control Actuator is sold seperately from the Injection pump even though a lot of dealers can't find. It. I found one dealer that found it....I bought mine from Cummins and it was cheaper than the dealer anyway. The part number for a 2004 truck is 4932457
I think this would be the same part number for the rest of them also.
I replaced mine and it made the problem better but I was still getting that pinging noise. Finally I took it in to the dealer, the first thing they asked me if I replaced the Fuel Control Actuator. Otherwise the dealer was going to replace that. They did some more checking and found the FCA wasn't working right, so they unplugged the ECM and reflashed my computer with the latest updates. Thanks to this site I was so much more informed on how to save myself some money and not be taken by the dealer.
My truck is fixed now. it sounds so good...its purring.....
One way to tell if a FCA is Bad is to Unplug it at Idle and you should get an immediate High Fuel Rail pressure reading. However your CEL will have to be reset. The codes can be obtained from turning the key (no start) 3 times rapidly and then reading the codes. I have had some on her say not to do that because it spikes the ECM others say thats not true. I don't know the truth but it did flash the codes for me to see so I wouldn't be afraid to do it in an emergency again.
The FCA is pretty easy to get to and change. The hardest part is that screws (3 of them) are easy to get to but not with a thick torx socket. The thick Torx socket will hit the side and it causes the socket or extension to move to the side. Increasing the chances of stripping the screws. I reused my screws with no problems but the Chiltons manual states to use new screws. I think that might be because of the chance of stripping them.
If your truck is louder than normal, pinging sounds, slightly rough idle, loss of power etc. It could be the FCA with a Reflash needed.
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