dznutz24

ive got a 01 2500 4x4 and the front u-joints are goin out...is there any specials tricks or tools needed to change these...thnx for the info...

ClayBob

Its a job..particularly if the front end has not been apart before. No "special" tools are needed and there are some tricks. You'll need a 1 11/16 6 point socket for the axle stub and various 12 point sockets to disassemble the remaining parts. The rotors and hubs are generally stuck on though you may get lucky. The hubs are particularly nasty to remove (do a search on the power steering trick - it really works). Set aside a bunch of time. You might consider fixing anything else even questionable at this time - you probably wont want to do this twice -

infidel

Getting the rotors off if they are rusted on is the hard part, rest is straight forward.
Read this https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&postcount=10

chariotdriver

The axle seals are something to consider as well. Blow out as much crud from the axle tubes as you can. When you pull out the axle shaft hold it straight or you will mess up the seal which is about 12 inches in from the u-joint. The pax side seal is pretty easy to change, the drivers side requires the ring gear/diff to be dropped. (mark where everything went and it's possible to do it without a case spreader----I have lots of hammers, some soft and others not so soft)

Both sides took me about 6 hours and I changed everything: ball joints, hub bearings, u-joints, and seals. I had to use the liquid wrench (torch) on one u-joint but everything else was easy. A big press is handy too, mine is a cheap china one from harbor freight.

I saved a bunch of $$ over what a shop wanted to do it plus it was up and running by nightfall.

Diesel Doc

On an 01 you may or may not have a CAD axle. Both seals will be next to the diff if you do not. Wash or blow out the tubes as stated before. I jack one side up higher than the other to keep from draining the diff. I usually remove the whole brake assembly with the caliper still atached to the bracket and hang it aside. Pull you rotor off and remove/set aside the abs sensor if you have one. You can then unbolt the 4 bolts holding the hub bearing on and remove the shaft, bearing, and hub as one assembly. You can take everything apart piece by piece if you want but this way saves some time and headache.

dznutz24

thanks guys...i appricate the info...looks like i get to work on it this labor day weekend...whut fun..lol.. was suppose to put my other goodies on it and race it tomorrow nite...but i dont have enought time to get it done....but thnx again..

mini14

make sure u grease the axle shaft ends upon insertion..so u dont mash the seals.and try not to get too much sand on the splines, they are heavier then u think.

dkenny

I finally took the axle out. it wasn't hard. I read later about using the powersteering help push the hub bolt to loosen the hub/rotor rusted mess..

I tried to u-joint it self out..no dice. finally took it a local shop and $84 including the new u-joint it was done..

so its not a hard job.

-dkenny

Mountaineer

If I am in there replacing the front U-joints should I go ahead and replace the axle seals even if they are not leaking ?

nickg

Unless you have the proper seal installer..short answer is NO. as posted in this thread drv side requires removal of ring/carrier, and might need diff spreader to remove/instal.Pass side just as hard without proper tools.
I replaced mine using washers/threadded rod(homemade tool) real PITA.

also not even if seals are leaking, most probable cause is bad ball joints, it allows spindle assy to move up and down forcing axel against seals causing the leak.

Mountaineer

That answers that. I thank you sir.