Another oil question
#1
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Another oil question
Okay, I understand the difference between true synthetic oil and "dino" synthetic oil.
I understand that Cummins specifies CI-4 rated oil for these engines.
-Rotella T 15W40 is CI-4
-Rotella Synthetic 5W40 is CH-4
I am relocating back to my Rocky Mountain homebase and will switch to a synthetic mostly for the cold weather starting advantage. I anticipate changing the oil/filter every 10,000 miles.
-Yes, I'm aware of the published recommendations in my owner's manual.
-I find that with my lifestyle and driving habits 10,000 miles is an easy to remember odometer reading. I swap out the oil, filter and fuel filter. (Based on previous vehicle) The oil is still good but I'm satisfied refilling with fresh oil at that point.
Okay, now to the question. Is the cheaper, more easily obtainable CH-4 rated 5W-40 okay to use in my '03 H.O.? Verses a more expensive, mail order only (in my case) oil like Mobil DELVAC 1 that is rated CI-4.
I'm of the opinion that the CH-4 vs. CI-4; dino, versus synthetic; Amsoil vs. Mobil vs. Rotella; etc is mostly theoretical given the miles I put on a vehicle (15,000/year) but I do keep them a long time.
How much real world difference is there between Rotella 15W40 CI-4 (current oil) and Rotella 5W-40 CH-4 (planned oil) in this scenario?
I understand that Cummins specifies CI-4 rated oil for these engines.
-Rotella T 15W40 is CI-4
-Rotella Synthetic 5W40 is CH-4
I am relocating back to my Rocky Mountain homebase and will switch to a synthetic mostly for the cold weather starting advantage. I anticipate changing the oil/filter every 10,000 miles.
-Yes, I'm aware of the published recommendations in my owner's manual.
-I find that with my lifestyle and driving habits 10,000 miles is an easy to remember odometer reading. I swap out the oil, filter and fuel filter. (Based on previous vehicle) The oil is still good but I'm satisfied refilling with fresh oil at that point.
Okay, now to the question. Is the cheaper, more easily obtainable CH-4 rated 5W-40 okay to use in my '03 H.O.? Verses a more expensive, mail order only (in my case) oil like Mobil DELVAC 1 that is rated CI-4.
I'm of the opinion that the CH-4 vs. CI-4; dino, versus synthetic; Amsoil vs. Mobil vs. Rotella; etc is mostly theoretical given the miles I put on a vehicle (15,000/year) but I do keep them a long time.
How much real world difference is there between Rotella 15W40 CI-4 (current oil) and Rotella 5W-40 CH-4 (planned oil) in this scenario?
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Re:Another oil question
[quote author=commando link=board=7;threadid=20112;start=0#msg189011 date=1064466741]
Okay, I understand the difference between true synthetic oil and "dino" synthetic oil.
I understand that Cummins specifies CI-4 rated oil for these engines.
-Rotella T 15W40 is CI-4
-Rotella Synthetic 5W40 is CH-4
I am relocating back to my Rocky Mountain homebase and will switch to a synthetic mostly for the cold weather starting advantage. I anticipate changing the oil/filter every 10,000 miles.
-Yes, I'm aware of the published recommendations in my owner's manual.
-I find that with my lifestyle and driving habits 10,000 miles is an easy to remember odometer reading. I swap out the oil, filter and fuel filter. (Based on previous vehicle) The oil is still good but I'm satisfied refilling with fresh oil at that point.
Okay, now to the question. Is the cheaper, more easily obtainable CH-4 rated 5W-40 okay to use in my '03 H.O.? Verses a more expensive, mail order only (in my case) oil like Mobil DELVAC 1 that is rated CI-4.
I'm of the opinion that the CH-4 vs. CI-4; dino, versus synthetic; Amsoil vs. Mobil vs. Rotella; etc is mostly theoretical given the miles I put on a vehicle (15,000/year) but I do keep them a long time.
How much real world difference is there between Rotella 15W40 CI-4 (current oil) and Rotella 5W-40 CH-4 (planned oil) in this scenario?
[/quote]
First off, There is a difference between the Group III syns and the Group IV/V syns, mainly in the cost to produce those products and the very extreme temperatures will they show to light.
In that respect the 5w40 Rottella is a good oil, no make that a great oil, if you could still get it for the $12 price they had at walmart. Now that it's over $18 a gallon, I don't think it's worth that price. Especially when you can get the real full synthetic stuff for less, namely Amsoil you can get shipped to your door for $70.50 for 4 gallons. That works out to be $17.62/gal.(corrected in edit)
This oil will last the 15,000 miles you drive per year, do a filter change at 7500 miles top off drive on. No problems.
So to answer your question, it's not cheaper to use Rotella for now, if it were $12/gallon, yes it would but not at $18.
Okay, I understand the difference between true synthetic oil and "dino" synthetic oil.
I understand that Cummins specifies CI-4 rated oil for these engines.
-Rotella T 15W40 is CI-4
-Rotella Synthetic 5W40 is CH-4
I am relocating back to my Rocky Mountain homebase and will switch to a synthetic mostly for the cold weather starting advantage. I anticipate changing the oil/filter every 10,000 miles.
-Yes, I'm aware of the published recommendations in my owner's manual.
-I find that with my lifestyle and driving habits 10,000 miles is an easy to remember odometer reading. I swap out the oil, filter and fuel filter. (Based on previous vehicle) The oil is still good but I'm satisfied refilling with fresh oil at that point.
Okay, now to the question. Is the cheaper, more easily obtainable CH-4 rated 5W-40 okay to use in my '03 H.O.? Verses a more expensive, mail order only (in my case) oil like Mobil DELVAC 1 that is rated CI-4.
I'm of the opinion that the CH-4 vs. CI-4; dino, versus synthetic; Amsoil vs. Mobil vs. Rotella; etc is mostly theoretical given the miles I put on a vehicle (15,000/year) but I do keep them a long time.
How much real world difference is there between Rotella 15W40 CI-4 (current oil) and Rotella 5W-40 CH-4 (planned oil) in this scenario?
[/quote]
First off, There is a difference between the Group III syns and the Group IV/V syns, mainly in the cost to produce those products and the very extreme temperatures will they show to light.
In that respect the 5w40 Rottella is a good oil, no make that a great oil, if you could still get it for the $12 price they had at walmart. Now that it's over $18 a gallon, I don't think it's worth that price. Especially when you can get the real full synthetic stuff for less, namely Amsoil you can get shipped to your door for $70.50 for 4 gallons. That works out to be $17.62/gal.(corrected in edit)
This oil will last the 15,000 miles you drive per year, do a filter change at 7500 miles top off drive on. No problems.
So to answer your question, it's not cheaper to use Rotella for now, if it were $12/gallon, yes it would but not at $18.
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Re:Another oil question
[quote author=commando link=board=7;threadid=20112;start=0#msg189011 date=1064466741]
How much real world difference is there between Rotella 15W40 CI-4 (current oil) and Rotella 5W-40 CH-4 (planned oil) in this scenario?
[/quote]
As far as this question goes, your talking a lower weight oil 5w40 that is "synthetic" vs a conventional 15w40. Pour points and Cold cranking viscosity will be dramitaclly different.
I wouldn't run a conventional 15w40 in the winter. I know lots of people do, but I woudn't that stuff is thick in the cold! Even if you compare Amsoils 15w40 with a pour point of -47 degrees you will see better performance from a synthetic than you would the conventional rotella.
How much real world difference is there between Rotella 15W40 CI-4 (current oil) and Rotella 5W-40 CH-4 (planned oil) in this scenario?
[/quote]
As far as this question goes, your talking a lower weight oil 5w40 that is "synthetic" vs a conventional 15w40. Pour points and Cold cranking viscosity will be dramitaclly different.
I wouldn't run a conventional 15w40 in the winter. I know lots of people do, but I woudn't that stuff is thick in the cold! Even if you compare Amsoils 15w40 with a pour point of -47 degrees you will see better performance from a synthetic than you would the conventional rotella.
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Re:Another oil question
Hey did a search found the spec sheets on the Rotella.
The 15w40 conventional has a pour point of -15 degrees F.
The syn 5w40 has a pour point of -40 degree F.
http://www.rotella.com/products.php
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databullet...3_rev10_01.pdf
The 15w40 conventional has a pour point of -15 degrees F.
The syn 5w40 has a pour point of -40 degree F.
http://www.rotella.com/products.php
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databullet...3_rev10_01.pdf
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Re:Another oil question
Ran Rotella synthetic for one oil change and found out it was not a full synthetic oil. Change to Amsoil 15w40 oil at about the same price per gallon. ;D Amsoil has been around for a while and is a proven product. My personal opinion. 8)
#6
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Re:Another oil question
Thanks MSPARKS, great links. You are correct, that for my specific situation the lower pour range of the "synthetic" is important and the actual reason for the proposed switch.
I think I should clarify the question though. My owners manual specifies CI-4 oil. The Rotella 5W-40 carries a CH-4 rating. What is the actual difference in CI-4 vs CH-4 oils?
Now before anybody answers "because it says so." : That's not the point of this question. I want to make an informed choice based on scientific data, not marketing hype or something like an increase in exhaust emissions. 8) If it's due to something like not meeting the sulfated ash standard set by the manufacturer (it does) then I'll go ahead and fork over the extra cash for a CI-4 rated synthetic but at my stated oil change intervals I'd rather run the $12.88 stuff from the local "Mega-Lo Mart."
As an example: In the world of ATF, Dexron +3 and Dexron +4 have significantly different physical properties.
I think I should clarify the question though. My owners manual specifies CI-4 oil. The Rotella 5W-40 carries a CH-4 rating. What is the actual difference in CI-4 vs CH-4 oils?
Now before anybody answers "because it says so." : That's not the point of this question. I want to make an informed choice based on scientific data, not marketing hype or something like an increase in exhaust emissions. 8) If it's due to something like not meeting the sulfated ash standard set by the manufacturer (it does) then I'll go ahead and fork over the extra cash for a CI-4 rated synthetic but at my stated oil change intervals I'd rather run the $12.88 stuff from the local "Mega-Lo Mart."
As an example: In the world of ATF, Dexron +3 and Dexron +4 have significantly different physical properties.
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Re:Another oil question
First, I am no lubrication expert. I've got my own, similar, question posted on the Third Generation Drive Train board.
Here is something worth reading: http://api-ep.api.org/industry/index...B0008C7094D05# Note the sentence describing backwards compatibility for diesel engines as compared to gas.
But to answer your question, read here: http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/Guidechart2002.pdf It looks like CI-4 was created mainly to deal with the oil problems caused by EGR. Since the 5.9 doesn't have EGR yet, I would think it would be safe to use CH-4 but you run into questions as to whether the warranty will be honored.
Here is something worth reading: http://api-ep.api.org/industry/index...B0008C7094D05# Note the sentence describing backwards compatibility for diesel engines as compared to gas.
But to answer your question, read here: http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/Guidechart2002.pdf It looks like CI-4 was created mainly to deal with the oil problems caused by EGR. Since the 5.9 doesn't have EGR yet, I would think it would be safe to use CH-4 but you run into questions as to whether the warranty will be honored.
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#8
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Re:Another oil question
Shell claims to be waiting to reformulate Rotella Synthetic until various diesel manufacturers, including Cummins, work out the final form specifications of their EGR systems. They say that Rotella Synthetic CI-4 will be on the shelves by December.
I run Rotella Synthetic, and I've never seen it at a Wally World for more than $12.98. Bought it for same a week ago. ???
If I wanted to afford it, I'd run Delvac 1. If Redline certified their diesel oil, I'd run that.
I run Rotella Synthetic, and I've never seen it at a Wally World for more than $12.98. Bought it for same a week ago. ???
If I wanted to afford it, I'd run Delvac 1. If Redline certified their diesel oil, I'd run that.
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Re:Another oil question
[quote author=Tartarus link=board=8;threadid=20112;start=0#msg190139 date=1064723927]
I run Rotella Synthetic, and I've never seen it at a Wally World for more than $12.98. Bought it for same a week ago. ???
[/quote]
If your still finding the stuff at this price it's a bargin in my opinion.
As far as CI, this is developed to deal with the EGR's. If yours doesn't have an EGR, then don't worry about it. Supposed to be able to handle higher NOX, higher soot, and ring deposits.
I'll bet that the the Synhtetic Rotella already meets that standard.
Here is a link to the tests that the oil must pass:
http://www.infineum.com/information/heavyduty2.html
I run Rotella Synthetic, and I've never seen it at a Wally World for more than $12.98. Bought it for same a week ago. ???
[/quote]
If your still finding the stuff at this price it's a bargin in my opinion.
As far as CI, this is developed to deal with the EGR's. If yours doesn't have an EGR, then don't worry about it. Supposed to be able to handle higher NOX, higher soot, and ring deposits.
I'll bet that the the Synhtetic Rotella already meets that standard.
Here is a link to the tests that the oil must pass:
http://www.infineum.com/information/heavyduty2.html
#10
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Re:Another oil question
The improvements on CH-4 to CI-4 are in relation to modern diesel engines and their emissions equipment for the most part. CI-4 oil will suspend soot a bit better, and had additive chemistry to work with EGR and CCV systems, in order to keep things cleaner. CI-4 oil is better if you can get it.
As far as D1 vs rotella syn, as posted above, group 3 oils can't compare to group 4. The delvac 1 is clearly superior in shear strength, and performance over an extended drain. Rotella syn is a waste of money IMO at $12 even, because the amsoil 15w40 HDD/Marine is only $16, and is a full group 4, PAO/Ester base, compared to the fake 'synthetics' like rotella and syntec. I will run nothing but D1 in my engines. If you are going to go 10-15k between changes, whats the difference if the oil change costs you $20 more?
As far as D1 vs rotella syn, as posted above, group 3 oils can't compare to group 4. The delvac 1 is clearly superior in shear strength, and performance over an extended drain. Rotella syn is a waste of money IMO at $12 even, because the amsoil 15w40 HDD/Marine is only $16, and is a full group 4, PAO/Ester base, compared to the fake 'synthetics' like rotella and syntec. I will run nothing but D1 in my engines. If you are going to go 10-15k between changes, whats the difference if the oil change costs you $20 more?
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