fireram

The last one was replaced by dealer by previous owner around 80 thousand Km ago.

Truck ran great when I came home, next day went to goto work and it would not start, Bumped the starter and checked my pre filter under the hood fuel press gauge and it was 0...

This one cost me $275 from a jobber, Its a Carter, came in a shinny red box with new wiring extension and banjo washers. Took one day to get in and 1 hour to replace.

Fuel press, pre filter, old pump the day before was around 10psi Idle,

New press, a steady 15 at idle, and only drops a couple psi when I tromp it.

Cost from Cummins was $334.16 plus $17.50 for wiring harness.

In Tank retrofit was $564.90 plus tax or $901.00 plus tax installed.

I went with a replacement because...

I believe the VP44 needs excess fuel to help keep it cool.

I have read about the new "flow gauge" method DC is using to test the new in tank retrofit, of providing at least 1.33 liters in 25 seconds to the Vp to be sufficient, even at 0 pressure.

If your truck is using 1.33 liters in 25 seconds, you definitely have a problem. So yes there would be excess fuel returning through the VP to the tank.

But Why dose it show pressure at Idle and nothing at WOT? When the previous Carter pump showed pressure at WOT..

Obviously we are not burning over 2 liters per minute of fuel. So the Vp must use more fuel for cooling when at WOT. And if there is no pressure, then there is no excess fuel to cool the VP, it is all being used and returned.

So Thats why I stuck with the Carter.

By the way, I took the darn thing apart, Looked pretty good inside, and the thing still ran when I bumped the starter, but would not pump the fuel....

Thanks again to the DTR members for posting experiences, I had been reading them for a couple of years, and she would not start, I new just where to look for the problem...

tmleadr03

You may also want to think about moving the lift pump away from the engine. If you got the carter it probably came with a mounting bracket that you didnt even use. Leave the one on teh engine in place and mount the new one on the frame by the tank. Run some fuel lines from the tank to it, to the fuel filter. Part of the problem with these LP is that they are electric and sticking them right next to the engine is generally not a great idea.

j-dubya

i had one fail within he first week of owning the truck. i had been reading about them and one of the first mods to the truck was going to be a fp guage. the guage was in the mail when the lp died.

jeremy

firestorm

Move it back to the tank area. When replacement #2 went in, I moved it back ny the tank, and ran 3/8 fuel hose to the filter. Fuel psi has not dropped below 15 at WOT, 18 @ idle, and 16 @ cruise.

fireram

Well, More fuel problems..

My truck would not start again. Pump running but no fuel. Let some air out of the filter via the water seperator, and it primed itself. truck started up...

When I shut it off, I quickly crawled under beside fuel tank and could hear a sucking sound.

It is sucking air on the lines comming off the tank sending unit. Pluss the steel lines coming out of the tank look like crap.

So Come monday I will be dropping the tank and running new lines. While I am there I will relocate the Lift pump to the frame near the tank.

Do you guys replace the stainless hard fuel lines that run the frame, or just the rubber connecting lines. My metal lines look to be in very good shape, but if they are just going to be a problem I will change them as well????

tmleadr03

I would just go with the rubber fuel lines. Just make sure they are tied down out of the way somewhere as you route it through the truck.