Micaiahfied

ok i would like to see pictures of lifted 4x4 rigs. if you don't mind, post the pics and then below it write up what the lift consists of. if you added leafs instead of full replacements i'd like to see those too! please also include it any other modifications were needed (ie, driveshaft, drop pitman arm, step ladder to get in ) ok... show them off!

squirrel

I bought the truck with the lift already on it and after some researched this is what I believe it has. 4-inch lift. Lifted with leafs. No driveline modifications. Instead of a drop pitman arm it has about a 3inch block over the kingpin. Since there is a wedge under the front leafs which I believe is to correct front dive line angel there is not much caster so it has bad driving habits. Planning on making my own longer front shackles to help get caster back. Hopefully I can pull this off with some clearancing on front drive shaft to avoid getting a new one.


with 35"s

Ilikebikes

Those flames look awesome! Wanna drive out here and paint some on my truck?

Begle1

Wannadiesel's really not a very good painter. (And he responds better to "please". )

Ilikebikes

I meant squirrel painting flames like that on my truck (unless wannadiesel painted that on his truck?)

wannadiesel

I had nothing to do with it. And Begle1 is correct about my painting skills.

SMOKE' EM

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...Picture223.jpg

skyjacker 6in and a drop pitman arm this pic is with 35's

Diesel Junkie

Usually on 35's... All the stuff in my signature... Skyjacker 6" springs.

The front drive shaft cv joint needs to be dissassembled, and clearanced with a grinder so that it can take a steeper angle. This is common to do with high angle driveshafts with this particular type of CV.

the cross over steering uses a dropped pitman arm. The box is actually mounted on the bolt hole pattern that is under the brakcets the box is mounted with from the factory, and the frame is heavily reinforced there. Ther is also a 3" block under a steering arm on top of the knuckle on the passenger side. The drag link is just about completely horizontal.

It would steer really well, but the 6" skyjacker front springs come with such big shims, that the caster is now between 0-1 degrees. its a littly twitchy at high speed, but i am used to it.

There are no added leaves in the skyjacker springs... also the skyjacker springs have no overload leaves in them... i though it would be a problem, but iits really no big deal, towing is no problem.. it squats a little when you put a REALLY heavy load in the bed... like a full 4' tall pallette of concrete or bricks.

Front sway bar removed... really dont need it.

No mods to the rear drive shaft, but the traction bars are required to keep the rear drive shaft angle stable enough to avoid axle wrap and u-joint vibrations. They are triangulated to keep the axle centered and improve handling on those twisty mountain roads.

The rear skyjacker springs also come with shims to fix the driveshaft angle, but dont forget that drops the fill plug a little.... you will need to over fill the rear diff, both because the fill plug had dropped, but also because the pinion is really high. I just put on one of those extra capacity mag hytech covers, and added about one gallon more than would be required, until the gear oil is starting to fill the axle tubes.

91.5CTDBanks

Bringing this one back....

I think I an going with a 4" lift. Will I need to correct anything steering or drivetrain related?

Ace

Diesel Junkie, you just hit on an issue regarding the Skyjacker setup I have been trying to figure out since day one. You mention the rear shims raise the pinion, causing issues with the fill hole in the diff case. That is easily countered by just parking downhill and/or jacking up the rear to add gear oil. But the raised pinion causes a positive pinion angle situation. I understand this is not advisable in rear drive/rear leaf spring suspension high torque conditions.

So now I see my truck is not the only one running around with positive rear pinion angle. What gives? Are traction bars enough to counter the effect of added u-joint stress under torque? Why not shim the springs for zero or negative pinion angle? I know it looks better with the drive-shaft tucked up, but I want to know what WORKS better before I get serious about power mods. My truck has only the 2" lift, BTW.

Ace

Bumpitty bump...

kc8ksg

Here's mine with 2 extra leaves in the front and rear ( 7 total in front and 9 in rear) and a 2" body lift. I figure that gives me about 4" or so, with 315/75/16's (35's).

Boatnik

Now Dave, That is twice in one night that I have wittnessed you agreeing with Begle1. Couldn't you knock off one of those red boxes for that?????

tomd

I have about a 4" lift that came with the truck. The height is perfect for me. Just what I wanted.

wannadiesel

That would upset him. He likes his red boxes.