Alignment Question please help...
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Alignment Question please help...
Caster cams on our 4x4 link/coil suspension, should they be adjusted identical? One of mine is facing forward, the other is facing aft, I have an appointment tomorrow for an alignment, can I save myself $85 just by adjusting them to be the same, if so about where should the hole be facing or is is common to have them in different positions to get the caster correct?
The issue is the truck is pulling to the right. The tires wear fine and there is no clunking or unusual noises. Thanks in advance for any insight.
The issue is the truck is pulling to the right. The tires wear fine and there is no clunking or unusual noises. Thanks in advance for any insight.
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I just want it to go straight on a flat road surface, you know its pulling to the right when you drive on a crowned road into oncoming traffic and it still pulls you back to the right side. Can anyone else tell me if the caster cams should be in the same positions? Really not into paying $85 for them to set the cams the same, check the toe in and its already in spec, and send me on my way. Thanks.
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Caster cams on our 4x4 link/coil suspension, should they be adjusted identical? One of mine is facing forward, the other is facing aft, I have an appointment tomorrow for an alignment, can I save myself $85 just by adjusting them to be the same, if so about where should the hole be facing or is is common to have them in different positions to get the caster correct?
The issue is the truck is pulling to the right. The tires wear fine and there is no clunking or unusual noises. Thanks in advance for any insight.
The issue is the truck is pulling to the right. The tires wear fine and there is no clunking or unusual noises. Thanks in advance for any insight.
#5
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Thats what I was thinking. I'm cancelling my appointment, I'll do some experimenting with the caster adjustment, its not rocket science. I'll just mark where its at now before I touch it and put it back if it don't help anything.
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Caster adjusters should be approx same from one side to other. If not same all you 're doing is loading the bushings, and binding the axle. They do adjust caster and change toe. For highway units, toe should be set very near zero, not the green bar on alignement machine.
#7
Every truck is a little different and you MUST use a good alignment rack to get things true. You will need to offset the upper ball joints and split the caster from side to side. A typical fix is put a 2 degree offset on the passenger side and set the cams all the way forward. This should give you about 4 degrees on drivers side and 6 degrees on the passenger and will generally fix the pull.
Another option is a set of moog adjustable ball joints that allow that split to be done or both sides kicked out to 6 degrees to see if that will help. Sometimes that will get it, sometimes not. However, that much caster is hard on the tires so rotate them frequently front to rear or you will screw the tires up.
Last option is get a set of adjustable lower control arms and either kick the caster out or split it till it drives correctly. Either way, the stock cams do not give enough adjustment to fix this problem and these tires will take some playing with to find the setup that works correctly.
If you think this is bad, wait till you put that lift or leveling kit on there.
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#9
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FYI - an alignment machine is only as good as it's operator, and a good tech can do in the parking lot.
A "green zone" alignment is hit or miss on these trucks.
A degree or two of cross caster - more on passenger side - will counteract road crown (don't worry, you're not twisting the axle - just adjusting the slop in the ball joints, control arm bushings & bolts/holes).
Keep toe-in at absolute minimum.
When your ball joints wear out, it's a good idea to replace with adjustable Moogs for better alignment options.
Which caster cam is pointing where? If they're backwards, it'd sure help you find the ditch!
A "green zone" alignment is hit or miss on these trucks.
A degree or two of cross caster - more on passenger side - will counteract road crown (don't worry, you're not twisting the axle - just adjusting the slop in the ball joints, control arm bushings & bolts/holes).
Keep toe-in at absolute minimum.
When your ball joints wear out, it's a good idea to replace with adjustable Moogs for better alignment options.
Which caster cam is pointing where? If they're backwards, it'd sure help you find the ditch!
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Which caster cam is pointing where? If they're backwards, it'd sure help you find the ditch!
Right
Left
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#12
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Isn't it irritating how Dodge left so much of the driveline & running gear naked to save on VOC emissions costs?
As much as I paid for a new truck, I'd gladly have paid a few extra bills to at least get some clear coat!
Next time I buy a new truck (not holding my breath ) I'm gonna spray-bomb all the bare steel after it comes home from the dealer...
As much as I paid for a new truck, I'd gladly have paid a few extra bills to at least get some clear coat!
Next time I buy a new truck (not holding my breath ) I'm gonna spray-bomb all the bare steel after it comes home from the dealer...
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I know, its pretty pathetic Dodge can't do a little better for us. I'm going to give your suggested adjustments a shot tomorrow morning, the steering wheel is centered now when holding truck straight.
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