Airdog fuel system
01-24-2008, 07:04 PM
#3
Registered User
Fuel Preporator (AirDog) was the original pump maker. His son (Brad Ekstram) seperated from his father (Charlie Ekstram) and started FASS.
They are close to the same. The AirDog is smaller and quieter. I have also read that the FuelPreporator (AirDog) system uses a patented air seperation system that is supposed to be far superior than FASS. I have also read that AirDog uses a superior electric pump. I read that the AirDog 100 is comparable to the FASS 150 as far as fuel output.
When I ordered mine, Joe at FuelPreporator told me they have dyno sheets of an AirDog 100 on a 12 valve that dynoed at 680hp, and the fuel pressure was still in the mid 20s psi.
I personally have an AirDog, but thats mostly because of the price.
I know first hand that AirDog has great cust. service.
My AirDog got a chunk of something in the gears, I emailed AirDog on a Sun. and Charlie (owner of Fuel Preporator/Airdog) called me at about 8:00pm on Sun. He said he could either walk me through fixing it or just next day me a new one. I choose to do the fix (this is my daily driver). He walked me through on how to take the gear housing off and clean it. It only took about 30min to get running again. To my surprise, after it was running again, he said just to be on the safe side he was going to send me a new unit next day. This was when I first put the AirDog on, and It must have been something from the install. So make sure you keep everything clean. Since then it hasnt let me down.
Now thats cust. service if you ask me.
I'm sure you cant go wrong either way.
This is just my opinion.
I'm sure this will turn into an AirDog vs. FASS war.
They are close to the same. The AirDog is smaller and quieter. I have also read that the FuelPreporator (AirDog) system uses a patented air seperation system that is supposed to be far superior than FASS. I have also read that AirDog uses a superior electric pump. I read that the AirDog 100 is comparable to the FASS 150 as far as fuel output.
When I ordered mine, Joe at FuelPreporator told me they have dyno sheets of an AirDog 100 on a 12 valve that dynoed at 680hp, and the fuel pressure was still in the mid 20s psi.
I personally have an AirDog, but thats mostly because of the price.
I know first hand that AirDog has great cust. service.
My AirDog got a chunk of something in the gears, I emailed AirDog on a Sun. and Charlie (owner of Fuel Preporator/Airdog) called me at about 8:00pm on Sun. He said he could either walk me through fixing it or just next day me a new one. I choose to do the fix (this is my daily driver). He walked me through on how to take the gear housing off and clean it. It only took about 30min to get running again. To my surprise, after it was running again, he said just to be on the safe side he was going to send me a new unit next day. This was when I first put the AirDog on, and It must have been something from the install. So make sure you keep everything clean. Since then it hasnt let me down.
Now thats cust. service if you ask me.
I'm sure you cant go wrong either way.
This is just my opinion.
I'm sure this will turn into an AirDog vs. FASS war.
01-24-2008, 08:20 PM
#4
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So, what becomes of the stock water indicator and heater connections and is the "wait to start" engine indicator affected? Just purchased an FP-150 and am getting ready to install.
01-24-2008, 08:30 PM
#5
Registered User
With the Stock water indicator and heater connections, most people just wrap them with some saran wrap and a rubber band. WTS light doesnt get affected, thats only for the grid heaters and thats ran by the intake air temp sencor and pcm.
I havent heard of to many people actually having water in their fuel anyway.
The water seperator on the filter is just a matter of unscrewing the **** to drain water out of it. AirDog recommends once a month to do it.
I havent heard of to many people actually having water in their fuel anyway.
The water seperator on the filter is just a matter of unscrewing the **** to drain water out of it. AirDog recommends once a month to do it.
01-24-2008, 08:42 PM
#6
Banned
I liked my Fass 150, but the new Airdog is quieter & alot less drop in fuel pressure over the fass. If anyone is looking to buy a Airdog, pm me...found a good dealer.
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01-25-2008, 04:10 AM
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Obviously the Airdog has a great price point right now. What I am hearing from people is that they are quieter. Never having run either one, I can't say.
Some folks want the factory fuel heater and WIF light to function. You are deviating from the kit, but the other fittings are readily available. If you choose to run the system this way, I recommend pulling the factory filter and monitoring pressure close to the VP. You are going to send that fuel through a few extra restrictions to keep the factory setup, so you may want to adjust pressure up slightly to compensate for WOT pressure drop.
Dave
Some folks want the factory fuel heater and WIF light to function. You are deviating from the kit, but the other fittings are readily available. If you choose to run the system this way, I recommend pulling the factory filter and monitoring pressure close to the VP. You are going to send that fuel through a few extra restrictions to keep the factory setup, so you may want to adjust pressure up slightly to compensate for WOT pressure drop.
Dave
01-25-2008, 03:10 PM
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Not very hard at all main thing is just getting the push loc fittings and your hose lengths right and routed the way you want, on the 100 fp as long as you dont have the in tank lift pump.
01-25-2008, 03:28 PM
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I always tell people to buy the products they feel they may need down the road. The thing with the bigger pumps is that they do flow more volume. So, you get to filter the fuel many times over before it heads to the injection pump.
And the fact the 100 and 150 are the same price, same warranty, ect, if you feel you may need additional flow later, you areleady have it built in at no additional cost.
JMO
Dave
01-25-2008, 03:56 PM
#13
Registered User
Installation is easy. It's just nuts and bolts type of a mod.
I always tell people to buy the products they feel they may need down the road. The thing with the bigger pumps is that they do flow more volume. So, you get to filter the fuel many times over before it heads to the injection pump.
And the fact the 100 and 150 are the same price, same warranty, ect, if you feel you may need additional flow later, you areleady have it built in at no additional cost.
JMO
Dave
I always tell people to buy the products they feel they may need down the road. The thing with the bigger pumps is that they do flow more volume. So, you get to filter the fuel many times over before it heads to the injection pump.
And the fact the 100 and 150 are the same price, same warranty, ect, if you feel you may need additional flow later, you areleady have it built in at no additional cost.
JMO
Dave
The thing with the 150 though is you need to either drop the tank or pull the bed to put the new draw straw in.
Then you might have problems when you tank gets low.
The stock drawstraw and tank has a trapdoor in the bottom of it, so when the fuellevel gets low, it traps all the fuel in the recess so it can be used.
With the drawstraw, you will have a space inbetween the tank and the draw straw. On a 5' long tank, a 1/4 tank of fuel is probably around a 1/4"-3/8" on the bottom.
I do alot of camping pulling my trailer, and I didnt want to have to worry about getting low on fuel, an having the pump cavitate. Sometimes I can go from 3/8 of a tank to under a 1/4 tanks just looking for a gas station to pull a longbed extended cab pickup and a 30' camper into.
Talk to someone at PureFlow.
Charlie, Joe and Toby told me that the AirDog 100 is more than anyboby will ever need.
Anyway, if I get to the 700+hp mark, they said its pretty easy to upgrade to the 150.
01-25-2008, 05:21 PM
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Yes, you do have to drop the tank. From picking up my tools to putting them away is one hour.
You WILL have problems with a low tank IF you do not install it correctly.
The factory system doe not have a trap door. It does have a "puck" with a small hole int he top for the factory suction tube. The entire assembly is wrapped with a very fine mesh. Many aftermarket pumps, especially those that bypass fuel can flow enough to suck this puck dry. The returning fuel does not enter this area directly. This is why you hear so much about noisy and cavitating pumps. The number of restrictions in the factory module and the restriction of the mesh create the issue in whole.
The advantage the factory module has over the draw tube is the ability to follow the bottom of the tank. This is only an issue if the tank shape changes dramatically. Mine must never have as I ahve never run out of fuel, even on the 'E' mark. I have put well over 30 gallons of fuel in my tank more than once.
I have talked to Pureflow many times. And I understand the HP claim. However, a pump that can flow 100GPH is only going to flow as much fluid as the factory module will allow. Period. Your application may not need more flow than what the factory setup will provide. There are others that go beyond the average setup though.
In my application with a 100GPH mechanical pump my pressures were greatly altered with the addition of the Draw Straw.
I had 45 psi at idle, around 40psi at cruis and 22 psi at WOT with the factory module.
Swapping int he Draw Straw with no other changes netted the same pressures, except my WOT pressure jumped to 37 PSI.
Keep in mind this is a 100GPH pump. Also, there is no bypass in my system. If I can others can pull that much vacuum on the factory module, there has to be a benefit with a draw tube. Throw a bypass system in the works and you can see where this is going.
For those very worried about not having a fuel "well" to draw from, I suggest removing the fabric from the top only and extending the return into that well area. This provides a small area of fuel to pull from, can be refilled by tank slosh and is a feel good way of doing it.
Again, these are just my opinions based on my own experiences.
And if there is a chance that you will need to upgrade down the road, why wouldn't someone just run the bigger pump now? I understand your application may be different than others. I am just discussing for those that may be on the fence with which size pump to run.
Dave
You WILL have problems with a low tank IF you do not install it correctly.
The factory system doe not have a trap door. It does have a "puck" with a small hole int he top for the factory suction tube. The entire assembly is wrapped with a very fine mesh. Many aftermarket pumps, especially those that bypass fuel can flow enough to suck this puck dry. The returning fuel does not enter this area directly. This is why you hear so much about noisy and cavitating pumps. The number of restrictions in the factory module and the restriction of the mesh create the issue in whole.
The advantage the factory module has over the draw tube is the ability to follow the bottom of the tank. This is only an issue if the tank shape changes dramatically. Mine must never have as I ahve never run out of fuel, even on the 'E' mark. I have put well over 30 gallons of fuel in my tank more than once.
I have talked to Pureflow many times. And I understand the HP claim. However, a pump that can flow 100GPH is only going to flow as much fluid as the factory module will allow. Period. Your application may not need more flow than what the factory setup will provide. There are others that go beyond the average setup though.
In my application with a 100GPH mechanical pump my pressures were greatly altered with the addition of the Draw Straw.
I had 45 psi at idle, around 40psi at cruis and 22 psi at WOT with the factory module.
Swapping int he Draw Straw with no other changes netted the same pressures, except my WOT pressure jumped to 37 PSI.
Keep in mind this is a 100GPH pump. Also, there is no bypass in my system. If I can others can pull that much vacuum on the factory module, there has to be a benefit with a draw tube. Throw a bypass system in the works and you can see where this is going.
For those very worried about not having a fuel "well" to draw from, I suggest removing the fabric from the top only and extending the return into that well area. This provides a small area of fuel to pull from, can be refilled by tank slosh and is a feel good way of doing it.
Again, these are just my opinions based on my own experiences.
And if there is a chance that you will need to upgrade down the road, why wouldn't someone just run the bigger pump now? I understand your application may be different than others. I am just discussing for those that may be on the fence with which size pump to run.
Dave
01-25-2008, 05:28 PM
#15
Registered User
Yes, you do have to drop the tank. From picking up my tools to putting them away is one hour.
You WILL have problems with a low tank IF you do not install it correctly.
The factory system doe not have a trap door. It does have a "puck" with a small hole int he top for the factory suction tube. The entire assembly is wrapped with a very fine mesh. Many aftermarket pumps, especially those that bypass fuel can flow enough to suck this puck dry. The returning fuel does not enter this area directly. This is why you hear so much about noisy and cavitating pumps. The number of restrictions in the factory module and the restriction of the mesh create the issue in whole.
The advantage the factory module has over the draw tube is the ability to follow the bottom of the tank. This is only an issue if the tank shape changes dramatically. Mine must never have as I ahve never run out of fuel, even on the 'E' mark. I have put well over 30 gallons of fuel in my tank more than once.
I have talked to Pureflow many times. And I understand the HP claim. However, a pump that can flow 100GPH is only going to flow as much fluid as the factory module will allow. Period. Your application may not need more flow than what the factory setup will provide. There are others that go beyond the average setup though.
In my application with a 100GPH mechanical pump my pressures were greatly altered with the addition of the Draw Straw.
I had 45 psi at idle, around 40psi at cruis and 22 psi at WOT with the factory module.
Swapping int he Draw Straw with no other changes netted the same pressures, except my WOT pressure jumped to 37 PSI.
Keep in mind this is a 100GPH pump. Also, there is no bypass in my system. If I can others can pull that much vacuum on the factory module, there has to be a benefit with a draw tube. Throw a bypass system in the works and you can see where this is going.
For those very worried about not having a fuel "well" to draw from, I suggest removing the fabric from the top only and extending the return into that well area. This provides a small area of fuel to pull from, can be refilled by tank slosh and is a feel good way of doing it.
Again, these are just my opinions based on my own experiences.
And if there is a chance that you will need to upgrade down the road, why wouldn't someone just run the bigger pump now? I understand your application may be different than others. I am just discussing for those that may be on the fence with which size pump to run.
Dave
You WILL have problems with a low tank IF you do not install it correctly.
The factory system doe not have a trap door. It does have a "puck" with a small hole int he top for the factory suction tube. The entire assembly is wrapped with a very fine mesh. Many aftermarket pumps, especially those that bypass fuel can flow enough to suck this puck dry. The returning fuel does not enter this area directly. This is why you hear so much about noisy and cavitating pumps. The number of restrictions in the factory module and the restriction of the mesh create the issue in whole.
The advantage the factory module has over the draw tube is the ability to follow the bottom of the tank. This is only an issue if the tank shape changes dramatically. Mine must never have as I ahve never run out of fuel, even on the 'E' mark. I have put well over 30 gallons of fuel in my tank more than once.
I have talked to Pureflow many times. And I understand the HP claim. However, a pump that can flow 100GPH is only going to flow as much fluid as the factory module will allow. Period. Your application may not need more flow than what the factory setup will provide. There are others that go beyond the average setup though.
In my application with a 100GPH mechanical pump my pressures were greatly altered with the addition of the Draw Straw.
I had 45 psi at idle, around 40psi at cruis and 22 psi at WOT with the factory module.
Swapping int he Draw Straw with no other changes netted the same pressures, except my WOT pressure jumped to 37 PSI.
Keep in mind this is a 100GPH pump. Also, there is no bypass in my system. If I can others can pull that much vacuum on the factory module, there has to be a benefit with a draw tube. Throw a bypass system in the works and you can see where this is going.
For those very worried about not having a fuel "well" to draw from, I suggest removing the fabric from the top only and extending the return into that well area. This provides a small area of fuel to pull from, can be refilled by tank slosh and is a feel good way of doing it.
Again, these are just my opinions based on my own experiences.
And if there is a chance that you will need to upgrade down the road, why wouldn't someone just run the bigger pump now? I understand your application may be different than others. I am just discussing for those that may be on the fence with which size pump to run.
Dave
How long will a pump last doing that.
Anyways I'll listen to Charlie at PureFlow. Hes not a salesman pushing an item. Hes just a guy trying to make a good product.
