Red Feather

Just installed the air dog fuel pump and have a few questions:

1. The existing canister lines - do I hook them back up to keep fuel from leaking from the tank?
2. The electrical connection - do I hook back up to run the fuel guage indicator? Won't it also run the olod pump and put fuel back into the old lines?
3. The old bango bolt I took out of CP3 I capped off - this will go along with item 2 above as the line and old filter will fill with fuel if the electircal is hooked back up. Won't that be an issue?
4. There was an additional electrical connection with the new pump at the pump itself but nothing to connect it too?

Sorry I have no pics. Any help?

Fisherguy

You say you just finished the install, how did you do it, did you drill the tank and use a draw straw or modify your canister?

1) I blue out my stock line to the CP3 with a compressor and taped the ends. At the CP3 end I removed the steel line that goes to the CPS from the rubber hose before taping the hose. I reconnected the small line between the CP3 and tank canister

2)I connected the wiring so my fuel gauge would work, the pump will not work cuz I cut the wire and spliced it to the AD.

3) I think you're talking about the stock fuel line, covered that in 1

4) The extra plug at the pump is for a "low fuel pressure" dummy light, when it comes on you're sposed to change the filter, I have a fuel pressure gauge instead so didn't order the light.

Red Feather

Fisherguy

1. I removed the steel line from the rubber hose at the CP3 and capped the rubber line. Not sure I understand the reconnect line between CP3 and canister?

2. I was unsure what wires to cut so left the plug on top of the tank out for now. What wires do I need to cut to disconnect the pump inside since I am not using it?

3. Covered by capping and disconnecting the old pump. Just need to know what wires to cut? Any help

4. I plan on getting gauges. I assume that is something I can use later for a fuel pressure gauge when I get one?

I appreciate the assistance. Unfortunately the change did not solve my power loss problem at 2500 RPM's?

Fisherguy

There was 2 lines going to the in tank canister of my 06, the bigger one that feed the CP3 and a small one that is the return line for the CP3, the small one I reconnected at the canister.

On my 06 the lift pump wire was orange with a red stripe, I cut into it on the frame rail right beside where I mounted the AD.

Too bad you didn't have a fuel pressure gauge before you did the lift pump, that way you could tell if your stock lift pump was the problem before you upgraded, but if you add more mods you'd problty end up needing the AD anyhow.

If you're running out of fuel at higher revs and your lift pump is good I'd think the problem could be your CP3.

Red Feather

I was thinking of connecting the two lines together myself to loop that old system and keep it contained.

I found the orange with red strip on the truck wiring and I did see a post on that but they never said which wire from the AD system to connect to it? I have not looked at the wires from the AD yet to see what colors are in there but I am assuming the same colors?

I appreciate the help! I am not sure I am running out of fuel at higher RPM's because It responds perfectly if I mash on it? I was thinking I might have a clogged injector or and this is a long shot but maybe the clutch is starting to slip on the higher end? I thought that I would see signs on the lower end first but maybe not?

I was due for another pump to go out so just as well upgrade now instead of later. Not really looking to bomb the thing but get a bit more performance out of it than stock. so far so good.

Hey I saw in your sig that u put on the B&D steering stabilizer. Did it do much? Mine needs ball joints and is somewhat all over and has been before ball joints were bad. Not sure they worked and did not want to spend the money.

Fisherguy

Did you do the AD install yourself?
I just connected the oange/red strip to the power lead to the AD.

From your signature it looks like your basically stock so the clutch should hold unless it's just worn out from high miles? My stocker was fine until I put Crazy Larry on my BDTD, then it started slipping on the highway in 6th gear or felt kinda weird after really getting into it going through the gears, but that was with about about 450 HP going through it.


As for the steering box support, I put it on before I had any problems up front, did it when I put the leveling kit and 35's on, seemed like a smart thing to do at the time with the big tires. Carli track bar and longer control arms wil be next.

Red Feather

I did do the install my self. Not much of a mechanic. Better with wood and nails.

The wiring harness for the tank canister has 4 wires to it. Orange with red stripe / black with orange stripe / green with yellow stripe / blue with yellow or light green stripe I think.

Which wires run the in tank pump? I assume the orange and red run the gauge and that is what i am after. Kooked it up to the red from the AD and nothing happened. Forgot to plug it in at the tank canister. Did that and fuel ran out of the old canister as the old pump was kicking on. Trying to get that shut off some how. I cut all the wires but the orange and red and still no gauge?

Fisherguy

Orange with red strip runs the pump, 1 will be the ground for it, the other ones are for the fuel gauge.

Did you use the draw straw into the tank?

Red Feather

I did install the AD my self. Not that mechanically inclined but made it through it. Better with wood and carpentry.

I will look at the wiring again and see if I can find the lead to the AD to connect to the O/R stripe wire.

I was thinking of the CP3 and the old return line today. The instructions did not mention doing anything with that?

Red Feather

Sorry for the double post. started the second post on my computer and left the house. Checked in while gone and did not see it so posted another. Anyway I am confused now?

My AD 150 came with a wiring harness that connects to the battery or alternator. It runs down to the pump with a branch line half way that connects to the ECM lead. At the pump it has a clip to connect for power and relay. It also has a connection for the fuel pressure gauge indicator light which I did not use because I will be getting gauges. That is all. so I am trying to connect my fuel gauge to the new system with out the old in tank pump running as it will charge the old system and leak somewhere for sure.

To do this I thought I would need to connect the top canister wiring harness but cut some of the lines to keep the old pump from running. If the orange wire with the red stripe is pump power. I need to cut it and leave the others in tact and plug it back into the harness on the canister. Then my gauge will work without the old pump spilling fuel everywhere. I can run a switch if I want to turn the old pump on if I need it and will need to figure out how to connect the old banjo bolt with a manual valve so that I can easily go back to the old system in a bind. Still working that one out but the pieces are there and it can be done.

So am I right in thinking I need to cut the orange wire at the canister to keep the pump from pumping and to get the gauge working?

Yes I used the straw. Drilled a hole just in front of the canister on a flat spot there and cut it close to the bottom, about 3/16 to a 1/4 from the bottom. I have read all the threads about issues when you get lower on fuel but filled her up right after and am still on that tank. Trying to get the gauge up and running to see where I am. using mileage right now to keep an eye on it. Depending on what happens I may change the draw straw location but wont know till I get there. My luck, I will be fixing something.

Red Feather

I also noticed that the 150 was for more bombed trucks rather than stock. I plan on getting a smarty but only using it when I need the extra umf while towing 5th wheel, horse trailer or work trailer. Is the 150 bad for the stock set up I have now or until I change it? Thought I was planning for the future but did not think it might not be good for the system until then? No problems thus far but only drove it twice since installation.

Fisherguy

That's right, cut the orange and red wire to disable the pump, leave the rest of them and the fual gauge should work.
The AD100 is all most people need, mine gives me lotsa pressure, I read someone was making 700 hp with the AD100 I think.