Bersaglieri

I just finished installing my DTT torque converter [ 89% Single Disk ] and DTT Valve Body [ Towing ] and I am having some issues with the transmission.

First, I am getting the 3rd gear start which I am thinking is related to the line pressure caused by the DTT valve body. To solve this I was instructed to splice 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistors into the orange wire, pin 31, middle PCM connector until the problem was solved. I later found more information to get readings of 5 volts from the PCM side of the resistor(s) and 4.6 on the transmission side. I am reading 5.15 volts on the PCM side. If I add one 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistor I get 3.37 volts downstream. If I add two resistors I get somewhere around 2.38 volts downstream. So I am going to radio shack to try and figure out which single resistor I would need to reach 4.6 volts downstream. Sound good to everyone? Or should I bump it up to 4.7 volts downstream since my base value is 5.15 volts instead of the typically 5.0 volts?

Second, I am not sure if the first problem is related to my other issues, but I'll describe them also. When I shift from Park to Reverse or Drive the truck wants to stall. I have the modifications in my signature with a 550-600rpm warm idle. Do I need to bump the idle up? Is this related to the prior issue?

Third, since the install, the gear indicator is not lining up with the slots in the instrument cluster. Rust is making it difficult to adjust this, although to me it isnt as important as the first two.

Other information:

I can manually select 1st and 2nd gear to take off from a stop, but if I leave it in drive the truck will not downshift into 1st or 2nd on it's own while coming to a stop. The transmission will up shift through the gears as I move the shifter and engages lock up with no issues. Shifts are firm and no slipping can be detected.

My buddy and I have reason to believe that the spring on the drivers side of the transmission which is a type of linkage return spring has lost its strength and may need replaced. Just thinking this may play a role in the previously highlighted problems.

I read a bit on TPS stuff, not sure if that would be causing an issue also?

If anyone has some information I'd greatly appriciate it.

Thanks.

-Dustin-

slowflyer2112

You need to go here and read up on repairing your solenoid valves. On my first truck I bought them at a cost of 250 and on my second truck I repaired them, No problems. Good luck

http://dunriteconverters.com/faqs.html

pokapotato

When it is cold and or my truck has sat for a while I have to put it in neutral when warming it up to faster heat the trans oil up. The torque converter is so efficient that the viscuss clutches dont want to move and the truck will stall going into direct or reverse. With a five minute warm up in neutral it shifts into forward and revers loading the engine a little but not killing it. Once up to temp it runs like normal.

j-fox

It would be easy to get the voltage correct on pin 31 if you had DTT's voltage regulator.
But since you don't, try a 100 ohn resistor.
What you are after is the highest voltage you can run without going into limp mode.
I have to run mine at 4.6.
The low warm idle issue is the tighter converter!! Set the idle up if you need to.
Next , and it is important, is to make SURE the shifter is in the correct range and fully in it. Partial apply will ruin the trans.
Let us know if you need more help. Don't drive it very much in limp mode!!!!

Joe Diesel

climbing on to this thread to see results, Im looking into the DTT single disc T/C

kelownadiesel

My idle had to be upped substantially when I installed my valve body as well.

raychem

Give me a call, I will talk you thru it. 786-543-9176


Richard

Bersaglieri

Well I did some work on it the next day. I bought three packs of resistors, all 1/2 watt, in 47, 68, and 100 ohm ratings. It took running two 68 ohm resistors side by side to get the 4.59. The truck no longer has issues with the 3d gear start.

The idle issues is just a matter of being cold and being a tigher converter. I am adjusting the idle today to meet the converters demands.

I will also be working on getting the gear indicator into the right slots.

The only issue I am having now involves 3rd gear holding unnecessarily long. I have been informed this happens occasionally with higher powered trucks and that I have to get a 1 volt reading from the TPS. Otherwise it could be solved by running a switch which I understand many high power guys run at the strip.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, had I known what these mods would have done for me they would have been the first ones I did.

-Dustin-

SHARPMACHINE

Sorry to bump this old thread, but I think allot of people probably search for this info.. I need to add the resistors to mine. It only acts up after being ran >a couple hours.

I also scene some good info. here = http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...51-1030418.pdf