bigredbrick

I'm building a semi daily driver crew- use the wife's Caravan when she doesn't need it- that needs to get good fuel mileage and not cause problems with the smog ***** here in Commiefornia. It will be getting a 4" exhaust, BHAF, 3200 spring, some sort of fuel pin. I've read all sorts of discussion on turbos and injectors but I'm not sure exactly what to use. A compressor upgrade on what I have and Bosch 190s? I'd like a little more power when needed (OK, I'd like alot more power but am limited by funds!) and do tow 3-4 times each summer usually long steep grades, 6,000 lb trailer. I'd like to get rid of the lag and smoke has to be well under control - smog check coming. The recent experimentation with the HE351VGT looks interesting. I don't have $1,000 plus for a turbo. Then there's the 518, might have to do a TCI or Hughes converter for now. What do you guys suggest?

JQmile

Goerend converter, DDP4 injectors, they burn real clean. Those two mods alone should get you a huge jump.

Crossy's son

free pump tweaks !!!

SMKHZRD

same^^^^^^^^^^ get rid of 190's they trash on autos...go with gorend there the best

93John

A good tight converter would probably do wonders. The intake and exhaust are good. Denny T makes an excellent fuel pin. Pump tweaks are real cheap. Either a different exhuast housing or a hx35. That would be a good start. Mine handled pulling 18k with the stock injectors and made good power.

bigredbrick

So, how much for DDP4s and for a HX35? What exhaust housing, from what I've read I probably want a waste gated housing? Can I do the DDP4s without a turbo upgrade?

Thanks

big stinky

Any injectors bigger than stock will need a bigger turbo to tow with them with the pump turned up. Also injectors will need supporting fuel system mods.

I recommend transmission, turbo, then fuel system/injectors.

bigredbrick

Thanks, that helps give me direction to go. So, what turbo? Modify what I've got? Don't have $1,000 (or more) for a turbo which is why take-offs from other years looks interesting.

JQmile

Gillette Diesel makes a 60mm upgrade for like $200 that might be worthwhile. I ran the DDP4's with a stock turbo and Goerend converter and made 300 hp at the wheels. EGTs were pretty hot, but my truck is non intercooled. Remember that even with bigger injectors, you can keep your egt in check while towing with just a little less right foot. DDP4s are pricy, but in my opinion worth it for a daily driver.

big stinky

A stock turbo is good for just above stock power levels as far as fueling goes. If your gonna stick with stock i/c injectors, get the hybrid. If your planning on 190s, or bigger, your gonna want a turbo with at least a 65mm turbine, otherwise its gonna get too hot for anything but a toy. Its up to you, which direction do you want to go with it?

As far as which turbo, I have no idea, all i personally have used is a baby h1c, hx35, wh1c and the hybrid with a mixture of exhaust housings. I still cant keep my egt's below 1600 on an unloaded run with stock non i/c injectors, and POD's. I just ordered a holset super 40. Im hoping it will be good for what ive got, and be nice for a small set of twins if I ever dump some fuel into it.

And may I reiterate fuel system?

My 2c.

SmokemS

there must be something wrong with my truck then...cause i have the stock h1c with pods and lots of pump work and fuel pin done .....and i really have to push it to get it to 1200 degrees.....or its just a freak of nature and my pump should be in the cummins hall of fame

Free89W350

Your pump is just a freak of nature.

bigredbrick

As far as fuel system goes, at this point stock and will probably remain stock for awhile after finishing the crew - other than spring, fuel pin and some pump tweaks. Would like to upgrade to a turbo that can handle injector upgrade. To do a Gillette and 14cm WG hot end will cost $600-$700. A HX-35 (PDR) plus above hot end is $1,100 or so - ouch. There's some HX-40 "type" knock-offs on eBay for $300! No I won't get one, doubt it would last long. There's also HE351VGTs for about the same. Haven't heard anything definitive on how to deal with the electronic controls and would rather not have the electronics. My wife drove the truck awhile back and commented on how slow it was - "that's why it needs a turbo upgrade, Honey!"

93flatbed

You can end up with the VGT turbo alot cheaper than that. I got one for less than 100. Check ebay. Mine was a temp fix for my truck. Now please do note that this is NOT a t3 flange and you will need to modify(spelling?) it to work. I just locked that one to where I felt 16cm ish housing was and ran it. It worked well for what I had into it (I wasn't expecting much). I think that could work well for you on a budget, as long as you can get around the connection from the maniflod to the turbo. And if you got a welder and a way to chop and drill metal then it's not really a problem either. So in short yes it will work, and it will work better than the orginal turbo on your truck and maybe a little better than getting the upgrade for your turbo, but I cannot contest to that, I've never ran one.
And very nice hint at the wife. I'll have to use a little of that next time I let her park my truck!
Good luck
Justin

bigredbrick

If you posted it that was the one I saw. For the adapter I was thinking that using rectangular tubing would provide radiused corners and maybe smoother flow? If that matters. Where can one get the specs for that turbo? I'd think it would flow pretty good to be used on a 6.7.