adjusting valves...where is BDC
#2
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Your crank moves at a 2 to 1 ratio with the valvetrain. Your TDC compression is your first adjustment, then rotate your crank 360 again to TDC and you will have TDC exhaust.
#3
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You adjust 1l, 1E, 2l, 3E, 4l, and 5E at TDC, which is when the line on the timing gear (fuel pump) is at the top (12 o'clock) position, then you rotate 180* so the line on the timing gear is at the bottom (6 o'clock) position and adjust 2E, 3l, 4E, 5l, 6l, and 6E.
If you use Cmonroe's method, you'll need to mark the harmonic balancer.
If you use Cmonroe's method, you'll need to mark the harmonic balancer.
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At the top of the opening where the crankcase vent tube is removed there is a TDC mark. When you rotate the engine, just place the line 180* from the first. If you have concern with judging the 6 o'clock position, place a mark on the harmonic balancer and rotate the engine until the mark returns to its original position. Check the line on the timing gear and it should be at the 6 o'clock position.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
#7
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I just finished mine up...is it normal to see a drop in EGT...some of mine were out a good bit. Truck runs good. I wish I did it a long time ago.
Thanks for the tips piperca I marked the balancer with a dot of red touch up paint where the serp belt comes straight down on the right side and then spun it untill that came back up. I checked with the mirror and it was dead on 6 o'clock and finished up the other valves
Thanks for the tips piperca I marked the balancer with a dot of red touch up paint where the serp belt comes straight down on the right side and then spun it untill that came back up. I checked with the mirror and it was dead on 6 o'clock and finished up the other valves
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#9
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can anyone drop me a link to a more detailed guide for adjusting the valves....??? also whats the trick with taking the valve cover off... i spent over 30 mins trying to get it to come off and couldnt for the life of me get it unwedges from there...
#10
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it doesnt get more detailed then the guide in the tech fact section. The trick to the valve cover is removing the bolts before you take it off. Move the back end toward the left side of the truck (your right) and rotate it as you move it over then pull it straight out.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
#11
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it sounds confusing...take pump/breather cover off, rotate till mark is at 12.when at 12 mark your harmonic balancer with a sharpie. do your first set of valves, then rotate the balancer 1 complete revolution till your mark is in the same spot.then do you second set of valves....just remember too tight is ng.
#12
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OR with a long handle ratchet and socket on the alternator pulley bolt to turn the engine- when intake just closes set exhaust/ when exhaust just closes set intake for every cylinder. Takes a little longer but is never "wrong" on any 4 stroke engine and no timing marks or procedure otherwise needed and easy to remember. I prefer to start at the back (#6)as it causes the most stress and end with the front (#1), last time installed new injectors and set valves with the kid's help(wrench puller/engine turner) in 55 minutes including the valve cover part. PK
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thanks for the link.. i was trying to find a good link for info but all i could find was 12v sites and listings. but when you rotate the engine backwards with the alt nut you do BDC or TDC first? and then you still do 1 turn to get the other adjustments?
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