I recently found some pictures of the screws you can play with on your 727 or 518 without too much quality or direction. Since my tranny has never been quite right in my 89, I figured I'd take pictures along the way to show how incredibly easy this really was!! I can't believe I didn't do it sooner!

If you have a 2wd, I would highly suggest lifting the front end and putting it on jackstands. It's a little tight under my 2wd vs my 4wd. I would suggest putting the front on stands anyway so your transmission pan is tilted aft, and you know where the fluid is going to come out when you loosen the pan.

I took the truck for a drive to get the tranny fluid warm so it would drain out better for me first. Once the front end was up, I set up a few pig mats and my oil drain pan under the tranny pan. Loosen the 1/2" pan bolts and gently pull down on the after end of the pan. I loosened the after ones more than the forward ones so it could til even more back. After it didn't drain anymore, I removed all bolts except 2 that were diagonal from each other. I then pressed the pan back in place with one gloved hand while I removed the other two bolts. I then carefully lowered the 3/4 full pan to the floor, and then drained it out.

Remove the filter with the 3 long allen head screws. Take note how it's orientated along with the aluminum spacer. You can figure it out, but it's much easier if you take note of it now, the hole on the back of the filter MUST line up with the hole in the spacer upon re assembly.

FIRST, lets adjust the bands. You will need a small torque wrench that can dial in 72 inch pounds, OR 6 ft-lb. They are kind of expensive but you can use them for all sorts of things that we usually just say "good n' tight will work". I'm not sure how critical this is, I've read some transmission guru's do it by hand sometimes, but I am FAR from a transmission guru!

Anyway, you will also need a 5/16" 8 point socket...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/DZL_Damon/89%20D250/IMG_2490.jpg

The band adjuster bolts have a rounded, square heads. I couldn't get any SAE or SI 12 point sockets to work since the edges of the head are slightly rounded. Luckily I had 5- 8 point sockets that came with my Craftsman tool kit that I've never used in 7 years until now.

This is the Front (kickdown) band adjustment, the square head screw with the 3/4" locknut. This is on the driver side. Left is forward, right is aft. That cable with the rubber boot is the kickdown cable. So if you can't find this band adjuster, just follow the cable down and you'll find it. FYI, the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) is just to the right behind that transmission cooler line in the middle of the picture. It has a few wires sticking out of it...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/DZL_Damon/89%20D250/IMG_2484.jpg

Loosen the band adjustment screw lock nut 4-5 turns. Make sure band adjustment screw turns easily. Tighten the band adjustment screw to 72 inch-pounds, then back it off 2 1/2 turns. Hold the adjustment screw in place and tighten the lock nut back up. It's difficult to hold this and get the locknut tight without removing some linkage. I used a swiveling head 3/4" ratchet wrench and was able to do it. I held the adjuster with a socket and extensions while the ratchet I was using was in OFF (CCW) position to hold the screw in place.

Now the Rear Band adjustment. Loosen the band adjustment screw lock nut 5-6 turns and make sure the band adjustment screw moves freely. Tighten the adjusting screw also to 72 inch-pounds, but only back of 2 turns this time...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/DZL_Damon/89%20D250/IMG_2486.jpg

Hold the adjustment screw in place same as before, and tighten the lock nut. This one is far easier to do...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/DZL_Damon/89%20D250/IMG_2487.jpg


There, that was pretty simple! Now, we can monkey with the line pressure and shift points a little more if your kick down cable can't get all the adjustment you desire. I can see this adjustment being VERY good for 3200 rpm spring installs since it will help delay low throttle shifting without screwing up your WOT shift points via the kickdown cable...

I read not to adjust this more than 2 full turns CW, this is a 3/6" allen wrench. I only did 1 full turn and felt it helped a bit, but I also increased line pressure so I'm not sure which had better benefits...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/DZL_Damon/89%20D250/IMG_2489.jpg

Next you'll need to modify a 3/16" allen wrench. I used a cheapy kicking around in my tool box, not my nice, ball ended one...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/DZL_Damon/89%20D250/IMG_2491.jpg

Now, this will adjust your line pressure. This is good if you turned up your engine some, it will give a little more pressure on the clutch pack I believe. You should test line pressure from the testing ports and adjust it to a certain pressure, and only adjust so much beyond that too. I was lazy. I was told I could increase pressure 5 or 6 psi extra no matter what. Since I have a 21 year old transmission, my line pressure is probably a little lower than stock anyway.

To adjust line pressure, you need to turn this screw CCW. Every turn is about 2 1/2 - 3psi of line pressure. I gave it 2 full turns...

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/DZL_Damon/89%20D250/IMG_2488.jpg

Now I'm done. I installed my new transmission filter (that's for another thread), and reused the old pan gasket because it was a soft rubber and my new one from NAPA was cork [yuk]. Don't over tighten the pan cause you are screwing into Aluminum. I think torque specs are only 13ft-lbs or something like that (good opportunity to use that expensive fancy torque wrench you just bought again!). Refill your tranny and check you fluid level IN NEUTRAL, not park. I always checked in park, and was running about 2 qts low because of this!

I warmed the truck up and adjusted my kickdown cable off a little so my WOT shifting didn't require a lift anymore. MAN, this tranny feels MUCH nicer now! At 55mph climbing a hill by my house I no longer have the engine climb to 2000 or 2100rpm. It stays at 1800-1900 or so. Burnouts are way too easy now, I definitely am VERY happy with these adjustments!!! I hope others can benefit from this as well. Happy Dieseling!

-Luke

Great write-up!!! Just what I needed to know, I will be doing this hopefully this weekend! Thanks man!

Definately a sticky!

Nice!

Good write up. Definitely sticky worthy. You ought to rehost your pics thru DTR for posterity's sake.

yeah i'm definitely going to try this!

Thanks guys, this truck feels SO MUCH better now. I just took it for a 100 mile ride and if feels much better. I want to turn up the line pressure even more. I need to dig and find out what the pressures should be, and then hook up a gauge to the test port and see what it really is.

This literally took my 1.5-2 hours to do this including figuring out what I was fully going to do, finding what socket to use (I had to dig to find those 8 points) and make my special allen wrench. To do this a second time it would take 30 minutes or so!

I just got a case of trans fluid (chasing leaks) i have a feeling this would make mine leak more... i have it narrowed down to two spots so i think im going to just replace the entire line. Anyways i actually had a chance to read this a second time and its really clear and throughly written. Id like to know where the test point is also.

The test points are on the passenger side. There are several of them, but for forward gears, testing the line pressure is off the front 2 (one is the Accumulator, and fore most one is Front Servo). Procedure is lift the rear end, put the truck in gear and bring it to 1000rpm in 1 and 2 (first 2 tests). Line pressure and accumulator pressure should be no less that 3 psi from each other, and they should be 54-60psi. As you or an assistant pushes the kickdown cable aft, the pressures should climb to 90-96 psi. In drive, the test is done at 1600 rpm and the pressures should be the same from beginning to end.

I'll try to take a picture of the ports later today. I wish I could just show you the pictures in the FSM...

I was thinkin of turnin my pressure up 3 turns or so? do ya think that would be okay without testing it???

darn i just replaced my trans filter last weekend:(

thanks man now i have a hundred and one things to do this weekend

I was thinkin of turnin my pressure up 3 turns or so? do ya think that would be okay without testing it???

I 100% do not know. I THINK I read that 2 turns was fine, but maybe it was more? Maybe less? It would me nice if someone knew what the stock clutch pack will take for pressure and since we know 1 turn is 2.5-3psi, we can adjust accordingly (assuming your line pressure was ALREADY up to snuff). I have a feeling mine was low due to little leaks, wearing and what not so I may have only brought it back to stock settings. But one can not really know without hooking up a guage and seeing.

I plan on getting the wheels in the air and bringing it up to 1600 rpm and just plumb the gauge up through the open passenger door onto the bench and check it. When I do, I'll know if I can adjust a little more or not from there.

where did you read or get most of this information? I'm in the same boat as you, I'm definately not a transmission guru, but would like to learn more, that was a good write up though and helped me out a lot

Factory Service Manual, and several random post I've read but haven't found while looking recently. Maybe it wasn't on this forum...

EDIT: Please note that recent information has cleared up how much line pressure will change with each turn. I was told 2.5-3psi per turn. I assumed he meant full turns, apparently he meant the amount of turns your are able to do with the valvebody in the tranny (which is about 1/4 turn). So 2 full turns will jack the pressure up about 25 psi I've been recently told. I have not heard back if this is too much or not, but he did say you don't want to go above 150psi total. Since the stock setting is 90-96psi at 1600psi with the TV cable all the way back, I'm guessing I'm approaching that maximum with 2 full turns. He said the lip seals don't like too high of pressure. Thought I'd pass it on.

Like I said before, I NEED to hook up a pressure gauge and see what I'm REALLY putting out. I am only assuming my pressure was down in my 21 year old tranny, but we all know how to spell assume don't we... :rolleyes:

ha alright I'll probably keep it around 2 turns, but I read on this site that one turn= 3 psi?
http://www.dieseltrans.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=68
And then I noticed the arrows in the picture which look like it shows 1/4 turn, so I guess that sounds right.

So you prefer the Rubber pan gasket instead of the cork one? i'll have to remember that when i go pick up my filter and fluids.

So you prefer the Rubber pan gasket instead of the cork one? i'll have to remember that when i go pick up my filter and fluids.

If it's still good I reused mine and it doesn't leak. I didn't use silicone or anything either, just make sure everything is clean.

Cork ones can rip and tear when you take it off next time, at least in my short time of experiences.

We just need to know the ratio...

1 turn of the power screw = x turns of the line pressure screw :)

1 full turn is only 3psi. For a bone stock tranny, you don't want to go over about 70psi for base pressure(make sure your kick down cable isn't too aggressive, as this will show a higher pressure at idle), without updating the inner seal on the forward drum(3rd gear apply).
Your base pressure is most likely around 50-52psi, so 3 turns isn't going to kill your tranny, if you're at the stock base pressure.

On aftermarket VB's for some fun and towing, I set the base pressure to 80-85psi. All out race, 95+ for base. For the blue loctite screw, don't go below .800.

I vote sticky....... nice write up. Good work. Did it firm up the shifts? Cause even though I hear mine shifting, the rpm change feels like a centrifugal clutch on a go kart, except for O/D. I was wondering if it would increase the rpm drop and firm it up.

unfortunately, to get more rpm drop between shifts is going to require a tighter converter.

this old man has heard a lot about the seals blowing in third gear drum. i raced these trans for 12 years drive 2 of them on the street with manual valve bodies at pressures most people run from and have never blown the front drum seals. i have never bought a so-called high performance seal for the torque-flite trans. i had one misshap a few years ago that blew snap ring and part of the groove out. re-used the dang stock seals in another drum and it is still working today. i dont understand.

unfortunately, to get more rpm drop between shifts is going to require a tighter converter.

That makes sense. Thanks

Well after workin on this most of the day, I did just like dzl damon did. I changed my fluid, filter, and turned up the pressure 2 turns, and turned the later shift point 3/4 of a turn, and adjusted the bands, put in some valvoline full synthetic ATF+4 and a bottle of lucas trans fix/slip prevent, and this thing runs a lot better! 3rd gear and overdrive pull a lot harder now and put me back in my seat when you punch on it now in higher gears. I still need to adjust my tv cable because my 1st and 2nd gear are still shiftin out too early and i want them to stay in longer, but I'm happy with the results!

Great writeup that told me exactly what to do, I didn't have one problem! Sticky time!!! thanks man

Well after workin on this most of the day, I did just like dzl damon did. I changed my fluid, filter, and turned up the pressure 2 turns, and turned the later shift point 3/4 of a turn, and adjusted the bands, put in some valvoline full synthetic ATF+4 and a bottle of lucas trans fix/slip prevent, and this thing runs a lot better! 3rd gear and overdrive pull a lot harder now and put me back in my seat when you punch on it now in higher gears. I still need to adjust my tv cable because my 1st and 2nd gear are still shiftin out too early and i want them to stay in longer, but I'm happy with the results!

Great writeup that told me exactly what to do, I didn't have one problem! Sticky time!!! thanks man

Did you go two full turns on line pressure or did you do the two 1/4 turns? I think I may get into this in a couple weeks.

Well after workin on this most of the day, I did just like dzl damon did. I changed my fluid, filter, and turned up the pressure 2 turns, and turned the later shift point 3/4 of a turn, and adjusted the bands, put in some valvoline full synthetic ATF+4 and a bottle of lucas trans fix/slip prevent, and this thing runs a lot better! 3rd gear and overdrive pull a lot harder now and put me back in my seat when you punch on it now in higher gears. I still need to adjust my tv cable because my 1st and 2nd gear are still shiftin out too early and i want them to stay in longer, but I'm happy with the results!

Great writeup that told me exactly what to do, I didn't have one problem! Sticky time!!! thanks man

Glad to hear it helped someone else! I'll throw a gauge on mine as soon as I get home again I'll determine if 1 turn is 3 psi or if 1/4 turn is 3 psi....

And yes Fred, a Torque Converter is still desperately needed in my situation as well. This just helped some for free....

Did you go two full turns on line pressure or did you do the two 1/4 turns? I think I may get into this in a couple weeks.

I did 2 full turns, I figured the same as dzl damon did, that my 18 year old transmission could use more pressure, and if his tranny was ok with 2 full turns, then mine probably would be too. It definately helped, a lot less slip in my higher gears and it pulls harder. I was hopin it would help a lot more after all that work, but it was worth it I think, its all back together now and doesn't leak or seem weird so I'm pleased, I still need to adjust my TV cable though to get this stock trans shifting to my liking.

I did 2 full turns, I figured the same as dzl damon did, that my 18 year old transmission could use more pressure, and if his tranny was ok with 2 full turns, then mine probably would be too. It definately helped, a lot less slip in my higher gears and it pulls harder. I was hopin it would help a lot more after all that work, but it was worth it I think, its all back together now and doesn't leak or seem weird so I'm pleased, I still need to adjust my TV cable though to get this stock trans shifting to my liking.

Thanks for the reply Smokin, I think I'm gonna do this in a couple weeks after I get the A1000 system done. I adjusted the TV cable on my Dad's truck, wow what a difference.

One full turn is 3 psi, not a 1/4 turn.

Yeah I'm wishin i woulda turned it up more now...

Does anyone have any new info to add?
Has anyone experienced any new leaks or problems?
Just curious. Making plans on doing this project and would like to know...

I would probably go 2 1/2 or 3 turns on the pressure turn up if i did it again. Transmission feels much stronger and pulls harder. I'm really glad i did this right before the dyno. No leaks or anything on mine. Just follow this great write up and you'll be fine.

800 mile road trip and feels great. I love how I don't rev over 2,000rpm on every hill. I CAN get it too go to over 2,000 on hills if I gun it, but not with moderate acceleration. I couldn't even HOLD my speed up hills without it slipping before.

I would give a hair more turns out on the pressure as well. I'll be throwing a gauge on soon to see how much more I want soon. I'm also going to be turning the blue threadlocked one 1 more turn. I was warned NOT to go more than 2 turns total, and someone else gave a measurement. i'm assuming something can go bad! My low throttle shifting is definately at a higher RPM now like I wanted. I just assume it will be worse again after I do my 366 spring...

Well, just got done doing this one.

After it all I can say the trans does shift super smooth now.

We'll see what the future holds for it.

Thanks again for the great write-up!

I'll have to give it a go this summer when I can sneak into the shop. Right now I have about 500RPM slop holding 55mph. Next would be valve body then torque converter. But that expense will have to wait until my other truck gets a tranny.

I'm a solid 1800-1850 at 55mph now. I used to shoot over 2100 or so pulling hills, now it's steady unless I really romp on it or something, but that's probably mostly torque converter slip at that point. I don't know what kind of spring you guys are having up there in Alaska this year, but it's a doable task laying on a piece of cardboard on a calm day with little wind. Probably 1-2 hours.

when is this goin in the sticky???

Is this all on the stock converter? Would you still change it if it is?

Yes it's with the TC that came in the truck when I bought it from the State of South Carolina.... so I assume stock or stock type replacement.

Yes, I'll be putting a Goerend in. I have a little more torque converter slip at lower RPM's since it's not as efficient untill you get around the 2000rpm level or so (normal). Most my roads to work are 40-45mph. I'm also getting it since I have a US Gear aux overdrive that will be going behind my 727, and the lower stall will be nice so it doesn't just slip back up to a higher rpm again.

Note: Adjusting your bands is supposed to be standard maintenance ANYWAY, so if you are uncomfortable turning anything else, you should at least do the bands.

I'm thinking the shift adjustment is very benificial for guys that have the 3200 rpm spring in since it delays shifts at low throttle input (which is common with the 3200 spring). I will say again that I was thoroughly warned NOT to turn it in more than 2 turns. Someone in the this thread gave a measurement too... I assume something can go very wrong. I did 1 turn and I'll probably do another when I get into it again since turning up the fuel made so the truck goes much better with low throttle input.

Looks like your running about a 100RPM higher than me. What is your axle ratio?

1850rpm is 1000rpm more than you at 55mph? I have 3.07's behind a 3 speed 727 with no overdrive. Final gearing is somewhere between a 4.10 and a 3.54 with an OD truck.

when is this goin in the sticky???It's been there since the day it was posted.

woops i guess i didn't see it.[duhhh] thanks

1850rpm is 1000rpm more than you at 55mph? I have 3.07's behind a 3 speed 727 with no overdrive. Final gearing is somewhere between a 4.10 and a 3.54 with an OD truck.

I'm running 1750ish @ 55 on level ground in OD on 3.54s and standard tires. So I may see a drop in RPM @55 after the adjustments.

Whoops, thought you said 1,000 rpm's more. I see now it was 100. I bet you'll drop a little more too. Then again, my tach may not be 100% accurate. Its the type that straps to my altenator and you have to set the tach at a known RPM.... I just held it to the floor in neutral (completely stock truck at the time) and set my tach at 2700rpm. When I let off the throttle it settled at 700rpm which seemed about right. This method may or may not be the most accurate way, so I may be turning a little faster or something.

Yeah i just did this... from memory.... and well i reversed the two? not only does it shift into thrid by 30 but it slips!!! i'm going out to get the right socket for the square nut and then torque the inner band and to the outer one later. then im going to un-do what i did before and go the other way!!! I KNEW i should have read this again FIRST!!!

The one with the spring and the shorter allen key is CCW. I just counted flats on the dually when I did it cause it seems the clearances are not the same as the 727 on the utility bed. I was able to get a full 1/4 turn on the 727, but not the 518.

The one with blue threadlock (you can see it's attatched to the TV cable) is CW. No less than 0.800"!! I found 1 turn was plenty for me, maybe would have done less.

Yeah i just got in...from a test ride... it PULLS HARD in second and third now!!! idk where im at with the pressure screw but i turned it about 5 times(undoing 2 the wrong way) this is roughly, because i used a pair of needle-nose vicegrips. Worked better than the allenkey i couldn't find. I turned the TV screw one full turn and it bumped me to about 45 or 50 in 3rd gear with medium throttle.
Also as soon as i throw her into gear now, she actually MOVES without having to give it any throttle, this will keep me from waking all the neighbors.

As for the band adjustment, it went in a full 4 turns before it tightened up, i used a small adjustable and snugged it the first time. This time i backed it out 2 turns and sinched the lock nut down.

All this combined leaves a good taste in my mouth... sorta like beer. I'm going to try and find a trans pan with drain and tapped for sending unit. Would love to get my hands on one of those tubecooler pans (or what ever the proper name is). I also would like to tap into my oil pan for a temp gauge... im thinking adapter mixed with my drain plug used to be here... method.

I signed on just to pass this on, so don't shoot me as a troll!!! :) I'm no expert, but on paper Chrysler says I know their auto trannies well enough to wear some fancy patch they sent out.. :rolleyes:

Note the tv valve above the 'blue bolt'. In more recent years (can't say when the changeover occured), this valve was changed from steel to aluminum. While the tv cam remains steel. Over time, obviously, this steel cam wears down the face of the aluminum valve.

This is the reason why all of us with older trucks have such good results from adjusting the kickdown cable under the hood. It compensates for the valve wear, bringing 'stock' performance back, which feels mighty good compared to 'worn performance'.

The good news is that this valve is quite easy to replace, and that aluminum -or- steel replacement valves are readily available. Just ask for a valve from an old 727, most any trans parts houses worth their salt will have one in stock. I can provide contact info to a local parts store I use here in Raleigh, NC if anyone has problems locating one. I believe I paid about $7 for the valve ~4 years ago when my 46rh took a tank.

Just wanted to share some info that I believe is a common wear item, yet is rarely mentioned and often overlooked by some former colleagues. Happy motoring!

-Jon Smith

one of the better replies fast4/4 thanks. had all those patches at one time finally just closed the business and let the younger ones take over.

is that the valve that makes the shift smooth?

From what I gather, it makes it aggressive and not so early. Good advise, thanks for joining to let us know.

I would like to do a valve body rebuild, or at least a shift kit with some of the "common replacement" springs, etc thrown in. This was just free!

There is no one "thing" that makes a transmission shift smoothly or firmer. While there are 'tricks' like the Tv cable adjustment, bumping the line pressure, etc that can alter the shift behavior. Just remember that smooth shifting = shorter trans life (generally speaking, of course). DZL (anyone else for that matter), I'd be glad to help out with a VB 'rebuild' if you'd like. I'm not trolling for $, I'd simply ask that anyone interested cover parts & shipping alone. I'm out of work, and itching for something to do :)

smoother shifting= shorter life. well said i preached that for years and a lot of it fell on deaf ears especially gm drivers. it is amazing what enlarging 3 small holes in a 350 turbo will do with out it breaking ones neck when it shifts.

It's the same reason the 4liter I6 Jeeps have lost so much power over the years. The same exact motor in a '02WJ easily has ~50-60hp LESS than the same motor from a 92ish XJ... consumers whined about piston slap, CC moved the wrist pin location and tightened up the cyl clearances.

People complain about harsh shifting = engineers make transmissions shift smoother. Then people complain their trans wears out before 100k miles. Same people don't bother to reason the manual, tow a 30k lb trailer @ 100mph in OD, and can't figure out why they smoke the OD clutch packs that are held together with ~25psi of line pressure...

smoother shifting= shorter life.

I've been told that for a long time and it makes perfect sense. As an off shoot of a mechanical engineer, I fully understand the reasoning and physics behind WHY. A lot of people argue softer shifts are easier, but a good, affirming shift puts far less stress on the tranny.

A proper Mercedes diesel tranny shifted with a kick, and if left that way it would last 300,000 miles +. That's why Lincoln, and Cadillac trannys wear out so quick. You won't spill your coffee on a shift, but you might spit it out when your wallet is handed over to the tranny shop.

Fast4x4, I would LOVE to send a VB to you someday. I am swapping my dually over to an NV4500, but I think i'll be keeping the utility truck with the 727 with a US Gear Aux tranny OD unit and a tighter torque converter. When my ducks are all in a row (hopefully soon), I'll look you up.

Yea in the lastest motor trend magazine they do a 2011 dodge 6.7 cummins up against the 2011 ford 6.7l powerstroke.

the whole article they whined about the dodge's hard shifting.....and bragged about the ford's smooth luxury like shifting

I took note of that oddity in the article too... wondering if the guys that wrote it TRULY knew what they were talking about.

I got around to torquing the front adjustment and backing off like so.... Let me just say... WOW. I would suggest this to ANYONE with a trans with more than 50k since new. Supposedly its a maintenance procedure (torquing the bands), and the line pressure boost gives it an extra kick. That along with adjusting the TV cable closer to where it should be helped alot.

Took Brandon for a test ride, he's is my whitness... this thing breaks loose in 1, 2 and maybe chirps 3rd (couldn't hear anything by then).

Yea in the lastest motor trend magazine they do a 2011 dodge 6.7 cummins up against the 2011 ford 6.7l powerstroke.

the whole article they whined about the dodge's hard shifting.....and bragged about the ford's smooth luxury like shifting

It's the same as with firearms magazines. You will NEVER read a poor review, because that would be the end of their free swag from the manufacturer. I guess Ford gives out better freebies than DC. [laugh]

The only exception I can think of for hard vs. soft shifting would be Mercedes' torque management system. At least for (dare I say it here?) gas motor... retard the timing several degrees for a few milliseconds while the shift begins, then bring the power back on after the shift is completed. Makes the NAG1 nearly indestructible, more complicated (in terms of electrical gobblty-gook), and more versatile, at the expense of that sexy feeling kick in the pants kind of shift.

Ford engineer-

hey guys lets make a 730ft lb. torque diesel engine and put a luxury smooth shifting designed-to-slip trans behind it!! yay !!!

I can see it biting the dust by 100k.

think they are trying to follow in dodges foot steps? Seems like a step backwards. I know my bosses 7.3 excursion has an electric shift kit that makes that 3spdOD go Waaa....WAAA...WAAA...Waaa and by then your doing 120. Forget about holding a cup of coffee, let alone drinking it or placing it in the cup holders... as opposed to the sloppy mess it was before.

I'll have to try this. I can't hardly top 55 towing my empty flatbed. Gross weight empty is about 8,000. Got on 79 the other day and said, oops, this was a mistake at about 50 uphill. Going downhill I can get the needle to 67 1/2, so a hair over 70, without a trailer. The radar screens the great commonwealth (not state) of PA puts up say I'm reading about 5% low.

I took note of that oddity in the article too... wondering if the guys that wrote it TRULY knew what they were talking about.

You are talking about the same guys who complain that fit and finish isn't just right, or if there is a rattle somewhere. Or that a one ton dually rides rough. NO! It's a 1-ton, not a caddy!!!!! There's a reason I haven't read motor trend or truck trend in years. Probably about 3 issues after they started truck trend.

One thing i think should be added to this is it takes 5qts to re-fil the stock pan, maybe 6, depending on how big your cooling system is(mine is slightly smaller than stock).

been looking for more info to do this............:cool:
'
thanks for the write up.....

this will go great with the new tc

Before I dive in on my fummins, I want to confirm that the adjustment on the TV cable screw will affect my 2-3 shift point. Right now with moderate throttle it shifts to 2nd and then almost immediately into 3rd.

This is with the TV cable slid all the way forward in at the engine side.

thanks, Aaron

Before I dive in on my fummins, I want to confirm that the adjustment on the TV cable screw will affect my 2-3 shift point. Right now with moderate throttle it shifts to 2nd and then almost immediately into 3rd.

This is with the TV cable slid all the way forward in at the engine side.

thanks, Aaron

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum, but here is my question. I've got a 93' ram with the a518/46rh non lockup trans. I've done the TC, it's got a custom built low stall. But my transmission shifts late, holds each gear to long. So I've got the TV cable about as far back as it will go; but it return I get sloppy shitfts. If I was to un screw (CCW right?) the shift point screw (blue locktite) then in theorie I should be able to make my TV a little more aggressive, hopefully giving crisper shifts. I have turned up the line preassure two turns. It helped a huge amount. I appreciate any input; thanks

I 100% do not know. I THINK I read that 2 turns was fine, but maybe it was more? Maybe less? It would me nice if someone knew what the stock clutch pack will take for pressure and since we know 1 turn is 2.5-3psi, we can adjust accordingly (assuming your line pressure was ALREADY up to snuff). I have a feeling mine was low due to little leaks, wearing and what not so I may have only brought it back to stock settings. But one can not really know without hooking up a guage and seeing.

I plan on getting the wheels in the air and bringing it up to 1600 rpm and just plumb the gauge up through the open passenger door onto the bench and check it. When I do, I'll know if I can adjust a little more or not from there.

I talked to a transmission shop about the two adjustments. The line preassure, according to the shop, will not wreck the trans if adjusted to much. He said adjust it by feel. It will crisp up the shifts. But the other adjustment will F&@$ the tranny if set wrong.

1 full turn is only 3psi. For a bone stock tranny, you don't want to go over about 70psi for base pressure(make sure your kick down cable isn't too aggressive, as this will show a higher pressure at idle), without updating the inner seal on the forward drum(3rd gear apply).
Your base pressure is most likely around 50-52psi, so 3 turns isn't going to kill your tranny, if you're at the stock base pressure.

On aftermarket VB's for some fun and towing, I set the base pressure to 80-85psi. All out race, 95+ for base. For the blue loctite screw, don't go below .800.

This is the limit on that apparently. Fred seems to know his TorqueFlites.

I actually wish I didn't do a full turn on that screw. 1-2 shift is a little too late on light throttle for my taste.

this old man keeps hearing about blowing the 3rd clutch seal. i raced these babys for 12 years. rebuilt them for almost 40 and have NEVER blown one and i used stock over the counter parts. i did my own manual valvebodies. i messed one up once and it blew the snap ring out of the drum taking the groove in the drum with it. i re-used the seal and 3 years later it was still working.

I'm planning to mess with these screws to try and help an issue I'm having. During acceleration I get a shuddering shaking that I suspect is the clutch pack slipping. I have a fresh gorends converter, the tight one, and a deep trans pan with the tubes thru it. Yes I checked the fluid level running in neutral. It's filled with atf+4 and I heard that is pretty slick so I am thinking to switch to dexron.

I'm planning to mess with these screws to try and help an issue I'm having. During acceleration I get a shuddering shaking that I suspect is the clutch pack slipping. I have a fresh gorends converter, the tight one, and a deep trans pan with the tubes thru it. Yes I checked the fluid level running in neutral. It's filled with atf+4 and I heard that is pretty slick so I am thinking to switch to dexron.

I would usspect your center bearing support rubber for the shudder actually since you have a club cab. Mine was deteriorated and letting the bearing move way too easy. There is a TSB about even moving your centerbearing mount DOWN on club cabs to alleviate this. Check that out on Geno's garage.

Not that increaseing your line pressure some won't help your put power to the ground, but I'm willing to bet it's not the clutches. Does this happen most at lower speed acceleration, especially with a load on? If so, absolutely look into dropping your centerbearing down or at least replacing the rubber.

Thanks Dzl,
That was the first thing I tried. The old bearing had the shims from the service bulletin so I reused them. The old center support was is terrible shape so it needed to be done, it just didn't solve the shaking. It used to do it the worst at low speed acceleration with a heavy load but now its doing it more and more with no load. Sometimes when its shuddering badly if i lift off the throttle and get right back on it a little harder it goes away. That's why I was thinking clutch pressure.

New info!!
I spoke with a tranny shop in st lucas, Iowa about this adjustment. The tech did not want to directly contribute to this thread so I will leave out the name of the shop, but you all know it.
This info is from the tech I spoke with ...
Much like our VE pumps, the trannys all came adjusted a little differently from the manufacturer. So saying to turn the pressure regulator screw 3 times will mean different results for different trucks.
The pressure regulator screw head is captive in the horse shoe shaped bracket. When the screw is turned it moves the little plate and compresses the spring. What we can't see is the other end of that screw has a second plate on it inside the transmission, and if the screw is turned too many times that plate can fall off and "do very bad things".
The spec that the pressure regulator screw can be operated safely whenin is the plate against the sprightly can be no more than .300" away from the retainer clip that holds the screw head. It was suggested that I only go 1/4" just to be safe. The photo on the first page looks to be mighty close for comfort.
All of this is info I am simply repeating, I plan on doing this ASAP and will post back with personal findings. Hopefully this will give us all an actual baseline to start adjusting from.

Awesome write up! Definately going to have to give it a try this summer hopefully.

I did this last week, definately an improvement.

I just serviced my 92 3500 CTD with a 518 tranny.

Started by using a cordless drill to drain the pan...then brazed on a 1/4" pipe coupling and plugged it with a 1/4" pipe plug.

Next I adjusted the bands using a new torque wrench...the road test revealed that on the 1-2 shift, the truck began to slow down, as if the 1st gear was not releasing. I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!

Nivlek

I just serviced my 92 3500 CTD with a 518 tranny.

Started by using a cordless drill to drain the pan...then brazed on a 1/4" pipe coupling and plugged it with a 1/4" pipe plug.

Next I adjusted the bands using a new torque wrench...the road test revealed that on the 1-2 shift, the truck began to slow down, as if the 1st gear was not releasing. I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!

Nivleki have been telling people this for years. no got to go by the book. the dang book is a starting point most vehicles can be improved by changing book settings one way or the other.

I just serviced my 92 3500 CTD with a 518 tranny.

. . . I called an experienced friend who recommended not usinf the torque wrench, but instead tighten the bands just enough to take the slack out of the bands, THEN back off the prescribed amount, and then tighten the jam nuts. IT WORKS!!! my friend told me that he saw the guys at Turbo Action actually doing this on their racing trannies. It works like brand new!

Nivlek

Does it mean the adjustment is "looser" than that of the torque wrench tightness?

I am curious if this method would be the same for the 47RE trans and a 727 3 speed auto as well?

Me too. I'd like to know if this is the same procedure for an '03

Mine's been rebuilt-

Looking at the available bands- it would seem that there could be different needed torque depending on lining material and style of band- split vs solid.

I could definatly use to do this since now I have lifted and put 35X12.50's on. I miss the low end pull and TQ.

I am curious if this method would be the same for the 47RE trans and a 727 3 speed auto as well?

The pictorial was taken on a 3 speed 727. An A518 (46rh) is merely a a 727 with an OD bolted onto it. When I did the same procedure to my 93's A518, it was exactly the same.

Other transmissions, I have not looked at and can not comment, sorry.

What is the possibility of drilling and taping a small hole in the side of the case for a ball end allen to access the line pressure adjustment?
Sure save a lot of time and trouble.
I got my transmission rebuilt, but I don't think the guy actually checked and adjusted the line pressure. It doesn't seem to be much better than it was.

I wonder how these folks are doing after these adjustments?
Anyone care to give an update?

I did mine 2 years ago and all is great, well other than my super slippy converter.

I would like to say thank you to dzl_damon for this excellent writeup. I just purchase a 91.5 and the transmission was slipping badly so i decided to try this, well my transmission does not slip anymore. The only thing I did different is 2.5 turn to the pressure side and i did not touch the TV screw, I just adjusted the bands and the TV cable to spec. You just saved me a re-built for later. thanks again.