AD 100 Wiring?
#1
AD 100 Wiring?
Ok, I too recently finished the AD 100 install using the liberty canister and although there were a few knukle busting moments all in all it wasnt too bad.
I am glad however that its over...
Quick Q, I thought I saw someone splicing into the factory harness to trigger the AD rather than running it up to the fuse box.
Anone doing this (on an '06) and if so which wire is it?
I noticed some intermitent ideling / running issues that I think are directly related to the loose connevction in the fuse box.
Thanks in advance!
I am glad however that its over...
Quick Q, I thought I saw someone splicing into the factory harness to trigger the AD rather than running it up to the fuse box.
Anone doing this (on an '06) and if so which wire is it?
I noticed some intermitent ideling / running issues that I think are directly related to the loose connevction in the fuse box.
Thanks in advance!
#2
yep,....thats it
vibration / bumps interupt the pump power as the mini fuse jostles around.
In addition now my ac's gone.
Fuse looks good so i'm guessing its at the panel in the truck. The fan **** works but the ac, flow door, and recirc. buttons are out.
fudrucker!
vibration / bumps interupt the pump power as the mini fuse jostles around.
In addition now my ac's gone.
Fuse looks good so i'm guessing its at the panel in the truck. The fan **** works but the ac, flow door, and recirc. buttons are out.
fudrucker!
#4
Thanks a bunch but I tried that one and it only seems to initialize and then turns off after about 3-4 seconds after you trun the key.
Bummer
I guess worst case I only have about 15b more to try
Seriously though, any other suggestions?
I need a constant feed when the key is in the "on" position but not aux,....
Bummer
I guess worst case I only have about 15b more to try
Seriously though, any other suggestions?
I need a constant feed when the key is in the "on" position but not aux,....
#5
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
That orange wire with the red stripe is the trigger wire that you want to tap. It only energizes for 3-5 seconds with the key on engine off, once the engine starts it goes hot constantly. there are pics of my splice in the link in my sig.
Tim
Tim
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lloydminster, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yep...what Hvytrkmech said!! This is what you want - the AD to run exactly like the OEM pump - no need to stay on all the time if the engine is not running.
#7
I think I'm going to have to find another solution.
I originally had it connected at the fuse box with a mini fuse "add a fuse" at the ign-pwr-run fuse (#33 I think).
I can hear the pump run (at the fuse box) when the truck is running however when I jump it in at the orange and red it only energizes (runs) and then losses power even after I start the truck...
How difficult do you think it would be to open the fuse box and hard wire it and then install an in line fuse?
Anyone done something similar with another accessory?
I originally had it connected at the fuse box with a mini fuse "add a fuse" at the ign-pwr-run fuse (#33 I think).
I can hear the pump run (at the fuse box) when the truck is running however when I jump it in at the orange and red it only energizes (runs) and then losses power even after I start the truck...
How difficult do you think it would be to open the fuse box and hard wire it and then install an in line fuse?
Anyone done something similar with another accessory?
Trending Topics
#8
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
Jason, I think you should triple check your wiring install. Is your relay wired in correctly? I ran the mail power feeds to the battery, then zip tied the relay to the factory wiring harness on the fire wall. I then added 3 feet of 14g wire to the trigger wire and ran that with the wiring to the A/D mounted on the frame. I then removed the org/red wire and spliced my trigger in at the A/D. There were only 3 wires to actually hook up and 1 plug to plug in. I will go take pics of the wiring and post them for you to see, give me a couple of minutes and we will work this out for you.
Tim
Tim
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lloydminster, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes Jason, something definitely doesn't sound right, the orange/red trace wire only should be "triggering" your relay. Actual power should be coming from the battery with the fused wire. Without looking at it, it sounds like you are getting power from the OEM orange/red trace and it's overloading the circuit breaker, which trips when it get too hot - the AD pump will draw more power than what the OE wiring can handle.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lloydminster, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jason, here's a simple diagram on how the wiring on the back of the relay should look like:
Note: no wire should be connected to terminal 87a (leave open)
What I did, is I got rid of all the other crap on AD's harness and wired it simply like this. Make sure you unplug both connectors off the OEM fuel canister as well.
Note: no wire should be connected to terminal 87a (leave open)
What I did, is I got rid of all the other crap on AD's harness and wired it simply like this. Make sure you unplug both connectors off the OEM fuel canister as well.
#11
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
Jason, yellow to + side of battery,
Green to - side,
relay location,
I heat shrunk the org/red wire going back to the in tank fuel pump. I tied my trigger wire into the org/red wire coming from the engine compartment. That is the only splice you need to make, with the acception of adding some wire to make the required length. However I left my intank pump in and used the draw straw method.
The only other thing I can think of that would cause your org/red wire to not stay hot with koer, would be a lack of ground for the original fuel pump circuit. I believe the trigger wire for the factory fuel pump circuit needs to see the ground for that fuel pump. Essentially, when you installed the Liberty canister did you tie the original factory ground for that circuit back to the frame, or the A/D circuit?
Tim
Green to - side,
relay location,
I heat shrunk the org/red wire going back to the in tank fuel pump. I tied my trigger wire into the org/red wire coming from the engine compartment. That is the only splice you need to make, with the acception of adding some wire to make the required length. However I left my intank pump in and used the draw straw method.
The only other thing I can think of that would cause your org/red wire to not stay hot with koer, would be a lack of ground for the original fuel pump circuit. I believe the trigger wire for the factory fuel pump circuit needs to see the ground for that fuel pump. Essentially, when you installed the Liberty canister did you tie the original factory ground for that circuit back to the frame, or the A/D circuit?
Tim
#12
Jason, yellow to + side of battery,
The only other thing I can think of that would cause your org/red wire to not stay hot with koer, would be a lack of ground for the original fuel pump circuit. I believe the trigger wire for the factory fuel pump circuit needs to see the ground for that fuel pump. Essentially, when you installed the Liberty canister did you tie the original factory ground for that circuit back to the frame, or the A/D circuit?
Tim
The only other thing I can think of that would cause your org/red wire to not stay hot with koer, would be a lack of ground for the original fuel pump circuit. I believe the trigger wire for the factory fuel pump circuit needs to see the ground for that fuel pump. Essentially, when you installed the Liberty canister did you tie the original factory ground for that circuit back to the frame, or the A/D circuit?
Tim
I did use the liberty cannister however did nothing with it (electrically) except "plug-n-play".
Here I thought the wiring would be the least of my problems, I mean three wires right?
Any suggestions (other than dropping the tank)
Thanks again!
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lloydminster, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The only other thing I can think of that would cause your org/red wire to not stay hot with koer, would be a lack of ground for the original fuel pump circuit. I believe the trigger wire for the factory fuel pump circuit needs to see the ground for that fuel pump. Essentially, when you installed the Liberty canister did you tie the original factory ground for that circuit back to the frame, or the A/D circuit?
#14
Administrator ........ DTR's puttin fires out and workin on big trucks admin
I agree. I know Dodge is more dependent on separate grounding then most other manufacturers. Electrical problems are always fun.
Jason, lets go by what we think we know. Are you sure that the org/red wire is not energized after engine start? If it is not then lets trouble shoot that problem first. I would recomend at the very least test lighting the trigger wire while someone else turns the koeo, then time it till it goes out, then try it koer and see if it still fails. If it does or does not fail let us know, we can move on from there.
Tim
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lloydminster, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just looking back at your posts Jason. As you stated above, yes, it will shut down with just keyed on. Your ECM will trigger the pump during key on to pressure up the system - so, the 3-4 seconds you speak of - mine does the same and shuts down. After you actually start the engine it will come on again as fuel is drawn and pressure is depleted and stay on as the engine is running. That of which you speak of above is all normal. In fact, if I have pressure in the system (shut off & warm restart), my pump will not even come on with just "key on".