bentwings

I came out this morning and the first thing I noticed was that the key FOB didn't unlock the door. Thinking that it just needed a battery I opened the door with the key. Then the seat belt wouldn't release. Not sure why.

Then I put the key in the ign switch and no dash lights came on. I also noticed that the dome light was out. I turned the key and ...nothing. Not even the clock is working.

The truck ran fine yesterday. Charge voltage was just under 14, the lights worked fine, everything seemed ok. I only drove about 20 miles round trip.

So I got out the VOM and ckecked the batteries. Less than a volt. each. So I checkd all the fuses. All are good. The main plug in the fuse block was a bit loose but not disconnected. I tightened it up but still no power to anything.

I did not check the relays as I don't know which termins to test across.

I also looked at the fuseable links and don't see any burned areas. They look relatively clean and the wire insulation is intact.

I also checked across the grid heaters. As far as I can tell they are ok.

The alternator is about 3 years old and seems ok. I don't see any charred wires or obvious problem. The belt is about 1 year old and looks good.

I just put a CPS in about 3 weeks ago. Those wires were in good shape as were the starter wires. I was carefull not to yank on them as I removed them to get at the CPS.

I tried to read codes but I don't get anything, I guess because there is no voltage.

I disconnected both batteries, (terminals were cleaned earlier this summer) The right showed about .5 volt the left was about .3 volt. After about 10 minutes the right was up to 5.4 and the left was 3.6. The batteries are 2 1/2 years old top of the line AZ. I suppose it is possible that one has shorted out. Neither of them are swelled or cracked or leaking.

I'm going to run the batteries down to AZ for an overnight charge and test. Hopefully the truck will start then I can have the alt tested too.

Anyone got any more ideas to check out.???

mrclean

Not alot you'll be able to check until you get the batteries back in......
How long did it sit.......12-14 hours? Sounds like something drained them down, although it isn't unheard of for a couple of batteries to tank all of a sudden like that. The alternator should also be running at a bit over 14v nominal, although I suspect that's not your issue. A common problem is the glove box light staying on......doesn't seem like much, but overnight in cold weather and a couple of marginal batteries will do it......

bentwings

Thanks for the reply,

It sat about 18 hours or so. I usually have Fri off so I took the day off and stayed home. I do this frequently so I didn't give it a thought. AZ says the batts are still under the 3yr warrantee so that is good I think and the alt is under lifetime.

I did check the lights right away as I had hooked up the GN trailer and used the rear cab light, however it was off. I didn't use the trailer cord as I just pulled the trailer out and loaded up the streetrod and backed it in again. I'll check the glovebox light when I get the batts back. Also the underhood light.

Well I just have to wait untill tomorrow. Might as well let them charge and test....it's free.

Hintonc393

When you get the new batteries in do a paricitic draw test. The best way to do it is with a amp meter. With one battery unhooked pull the positive off the other battery, put the amp meter in line with the positive battery terminal and the positive battery cable. Most amp meters will have a ten amp fuse, so you can test up to ten amps before the fuse in meter blows. With the key in the off position you should have very little amp draw. Do not try this with the key on you will blow the fuse in the meter. If you see anymore than a amp or two I would think you have something staying on. If you have a draw start pulling fuses until it goes away. Once you pull a fuse that removes the draw check that circuit for things staying on. Depending on how your batteries are wired you may need to do the same thing with the other battery.

whiskers

I had the same situation last spring. Thought everything was in great shape but 1 battery went down to nothing overnight. Unhooked it and charged it up think all would be well. At that time the other battery test 12.75 volts as it should. Hooked 'em up drove it, all charging fine. parked it and the next day both batteries were toast. So it does happen. new batteries and all is well 6 months later.

DieselLady

My neighbor had the same problem. Her knee hit the dome light switch when exiting the truck. By morning there was 000 volts in the battery. Left it on the trickle charge over night and it started right up the next day. Beware, you will have some codes from lack of voltage. Just disregard once you get it running.

bentwings

Thanks everyone.

Good news. AZ charged and tested the batteries. One was stone dead the other had 5 volts after charge.

So I got 2 more new batteries. Still under the free replacement warantee. Not only that the previous store gave me 24 series batts instead of 27 series. I don't remember why...probably because they didn't have them in stock and I needed the truck. So I now have 2 new 27 series batts. I only had to pay the increase in price over 2 1/2 years. Total for both was $25.

That's the 4th pair unter the warantee. About every 2 1/2 years.

I did exactly as Hintoc...suggested. Tested for static load. It was very small...less than 100 ma. I didn't have my good VOM which measures low currents better. Still it is not a problem. I also turned on the rear cab light and there is only about 100 ma increase. I had previously checked the switch as I had used it the night before and the switch was definitely off.

Apparently one battery shorted out and dragged the other down with it.

I alway like to post successful solutions and notes so here they are.
In thinking back here are the only symptoms I can think of.

1. The when warmed up driving 20 min or so the voltmeter had been showing about one needle width lower than 14 volts. This time of year when it is colder it is normally one needle width past 14 volts.

2. Morning starts after one cycle of the grid heater found the motor seemed to turn about 2 revs before starting as opposed to nearly instant starts. Since I drive nearly the same route every mornig I noticed that the voltmeter was just a little slow comming up after the grid heaters shut off. Very subtle but when you drive the truck every day it was noticable.

3. The headlights just seemed a very little worse than normal. This goes along with the slightly lower charge voltage.

4. Hot starts the motor just seemed to turn over an extra rev.

Again someone just checking this truck out would never see this stuff. After 270k you get so you know every sound and vibration the truck makes.

So again thanks for the help guys.

Rabbit

the group number is just the case size. If you look the group 24 has the exact same specs. as the group 27 its just a bigger case. I've run 24's from autozone for the last 4 years

bentwings

Yeah that's what the guy said. He said the 27 has slightly more reserve but I didn't check. I really don't care as long as the truck starts at -30 F and they don't leave me stranded anymore. Like I noted these are #7 and #8 for this truck. I bought 5 batts from AZ the same year I got these. All have been replaced under warantee. Gotta love AZ customer service.

Minn winters are really hard on batts I guess. I always get the longest warantee times. I don't think I've had one in 30 years run out of some of the warantee.

Ironically having been in the battery business for a long time I never dealt with lead acid automotive batts just high power military stuff. Some of those would turn the truck over before turning the motor over. haha

delsilver

Glad you got it sorted out. In addition to my 93 I have 99 Sebring convertible. The seatbelt release is electrically controlled so no battery no seat belt release. I experienced the same problem because of a bad door switch which is suposed to supply power to the release. Fortunately as soon as you turn the key on a secondary circuit releases the seat belt as I never have fixed the door switch.

Dieseldude4x4

I don't buy anything from the place mentioned unless it is in a can or maybe a light bulb. Especially batteries. My son and my brother both found out the same thing as I did. My son when through three AZ alternators before he finally went to NAPA and bought a good one, one of which left him stranded at 02:00 in the morning coming from work. My brother bought a battery for his motorcycle there too. Lasted one year and would not even crank the engine over after that. Put the right one in and viola. I don't care if the warranty is good for 20 years, it they die every five months, what good is that.

SIXSLUG

Glad to hear you got it figured out.

I always have spent extra dough for tires and batteries and brakes.

My truck wouldn't start a couple weeks back after a 3 hour trip and a 1/2 hour rest. Perplexing as I had just put two new batteries in and had the alternator tested. Went thru everything like you did and can't find anything .

Thinkin maybe starter contacts. It is due at 120K.

bentwings

Sixlug

I carry the heavy duty contacts in the glove box and the tools to change them.

The Crank Position sensor will also leave you DIW (dead in the water)

SIXSLUG

Bentwings

Have you had to change the contacts yet?

I have had two other vehicles not start because of worn contacts and ended up fixing it myself due to the cost of the starter on each.

bentwings

No, I haven't had to replace them yet. I got them right after the first starter went out. It was 30 deg and sleeting and snowing. I had to walk 5 miles to the AZ store. I bought a new starter with a lifetime warantee. Also bought the tools needed to replace the starter. Walked back to the truck and changed the starter. Not any fun at all. The next day I ordered the contacts. I feel that I could replace them in the field if necessary but so far the "new starter" has been replaced 2 more times under the lifetime warantee. Luckily they have died right inthe drive way or in the shop.

So I just keep them for spare parts in case I need them. My spare parts storage is getting over filled and I may have to start just hauling my GN trailer around where ever I go.