Oregon Fish

Newby here. To this forum as well as the Cummins.

I have a 96 cummins 12V, 4x4, automatic. I'm gettting only 13-14 MPH. Just got this beauty a month ago and cleaned the K'N air filter, oil change, adjusted the tranny bands and am thinking the fuel filter may be holding back my mileage.

I got myself a new fuel filter and the Haynes manual (which sux) and found out that that sucker was not easy to get to!

I've read some of your posts about it and have a few questions.

How do you get a filter wrench on it with all those lines in the way?

How do you drain the filter and where is the bleeder valve?

Where is the fuel primer? (both things the Haynes manual doesn't mention)

What is a universal for a rachet and will it fit over the water filter area on the bottom? Sounds like that might be easier.

Has anyone invested in the remote fuel filter systems and are they worth it?

Thanks all.

Fish

atthepark

I use a flexible strap type oil filter wrench to get mine off. I got it at Advance Auto for $7.00. Just unhook, carefully, the electrical connection from the water sensor that connects to the bottom of the filter and slip the strap on from the bottom of the filter. The filter will be full of fuel so be careful not to spill.

When you put the new one back on, make sure to replace the O-ring on the threaded stud also and oil the main gasket on the filter. Once you have it back on, check that you didnt accidentally disconnect any vac. lines. Plus the water sensor back in.

The primer is a small rubber button on the lift pump that is just below the oil filter on the side of the engine. It takes about 100 pushes on the prime button to fill the filter. Dont fill with fuel from the pump..it isnt filtered!

You can also prime the filter by pressurizing the fuel tank. Do a search on here and look for instruction by the user Infidel...he uses a modified fuel tank cap with an air hookup to add pressure (very low pressure) to the tank. Then crack the bleed screw on top of the plate where the fuel filter attaches and once you get some fuel out the bleed screw you are primed.

The filter relocation kits are expensive and get in the way of doing other things under the hood.

With a little practice, you will be able to change the filter in under 10 minutes.

Good luck. Please fill out your signature also, so you wont have list your truck every time you post.

infidel

The '94-'96 with vacuum assist brakes are much easier to change than the the newer models.
Just remove the two nuts that hold the brake master cylinder to the booster. Even though it doesn't look like it the whole unit will move easily towards the driver's side giving you a ton of room to work.
I wouldn't even consider doing it any other way.

TxDiesel007

INfidel has the easiest way to do this,

But this is how i do it, If you wanna change it yourself first of all zip tie all of the little vac lines so that you dont risk undoing them when you are messing with the fuel filter. I usually get on the bumper of the truck and yes a small filter wrench fits in there, just make sure and get the one with the flexible handle, The first thing u do is undo the WIF (water in fuel) sensor, which is probably the hardest thing to do really.. then once that is done, u go ahead and slip the wrench in under there and make sure that it tightens and enables you to actually turn the filter TOWARDS THE FRONT of the engine, a couple of good turns and you can pull out that wrench and take it off by hand, (u will have to go thru the little WIF sensor wire but its no biggie, just put it thru the wrench). ONce it is off, just swap the WIF sensor housing to the new filter, and tighten it a little bit, then u can do one of two things, fill the fuel filter up with clean diesel and put it back on in the inverse way you took it off, OR you can put the fuel filter on empty.. If you put it on empty you will have to prime the system, u do this by pressing the little button on the lift pump about 60-100 times till the button gets hard, and u feel that fuel has cracked thru the Overflow valve.... Go ahead and go crank up the truck, it might run rough for a bit till all the air comes out of it, but it should start right up, if it dont, check for leaks, or continue priming, or just use full throttle when trying to start it up...

Really it sounds like a hard job, but ive gotten this down to a 5-10 minute job with plenty of practice, its all it takes..

Having said that, i wouldnt care much for a remote fuel filter location.. its not a big deal to change them out...

Have a good one!

Rick

Box5

I just got done changing the oil and filter, and still have to do the fuel filter. thanks for this thread, good instructions i'm about to follow, lol.

clutch1

Dont forget the pre-filter....
[IMG][/IMG]

Box5

can u just clean it or do u need a replacement? whats the part number?

JKM

just clean the pre filter and put it back together.

clutch1

I could have cleaned it and reused but I wasn't sure how bad it was goin to be plus you get the new nut and seal with the kit. can't remember the part number there should be info on here just search for pre-filter

wisemorn

Individual gaskets and parts for the prefilter assembly are not available, but a pre-filter repair kit is available from:
· Dodge dealers for $42 Part number 04762962.
· Cummins/Fleetguard for $6 Part number 3845400-s.
It consists of a strainer screen, gasket for the sediment bulb and a small pressed steel nut.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm

patdaly

Genos Garage was really cheap on the pre-filter kit also.....

Box5

I just did the fuel filter for my first time, it took 15 minutes because I went and washed my hands after I spilled diesel all over myself, lol. I didn't move the brake master cylinder, I just slide my hand under it and under the two hard brake lines and was able to undo the WIF connector, and unscrew the filter by hand (it was tight but not bad). Make sure you take off the rubber gasket that is still on the filter mount and replace with the new one. Transfer the WIF thing to the new filter and put the new o-ring in place of the old, put some engine oil on the fuel filter seal and screw it back on the engine, connect the WIF sensor connector, and push the prime button a bunch of times (for me it took 60 pushes, than 5 seconds of engine cranking, than another 20 pushes, and 5 seconds of cranking before it fired right up). It might just be me, but after the oil change and both filters it runs smoother and has more power? prolly just my imagination, lol. But I love this truck more everytime I drive it.

infidel

It's very wise to have the prefilter seal on hand before taking it apart.
Otherwise you might have to wait for a new one if the old one leaks.

Oregon Fish

Wow, great response! Thanks all! I hope the signature comes up. I'm loving my truck! I'll post a pic


Noticed a light repetitive clank in my front end last night (windows were down for the first time since I got her do to the sun being out). Like a u-joint, also, in 4h Or 4L I get a clank in the front end when turning. Normal?

Also, the ultimate argument, with oversize tires are you going faster or slower than your speedo says? I say slower.

Oregon Fish

Where the heck is the pre-filter located and dang! i can't find the part kit anywhere!