dynobo

Hey guys. I'm new here (1st post). I have been reading the forum for about a week now and it's very informative. I just bought a 98.5 2500 w/ Cummins. The guy told me when I bought it that it wouldn't run over about 60 mph. I actually bought a lift pump and installed it before moving the truck because I had a 80 mile ride to get the truck home. Well for the first mile or two it ran great, then just lost most of it's power. It would accelerate very slowly and eventually on level ground would pull about 50-55 mph. If I had to wait very long at RED lights it would again accelerate normal for about a minute or so. I have searched and read most of the posts on the forum. My questions are:
1) Where is the best (cheapest) place for a vp44.
2) Is there a sure fire way to determine it is the IP before spending the 1100 + bucks.
3) Is there anything else that would cause the syptoms that I am having?

Also this truck doesn't have a thermostat or it is stuck open, as I drove it 80 miles yesterday and the upper rad. hose never even got hot.(about 100 degrees).

How difficult is the IP to change and about how many hours to do it. I have been an automotive tech for about 20 years but no experience with diesels. Thanks in advance.................William

HotRod82

First, I would install a fuel pressure guage AT THE IP. Make sure you are maintaining more than 8 lbs while running down the road. This will tell you if you have any othe restrictions in the fuel delivery system. I.E., plugged filter or gunk in the tank, etc. If you have adequate fuel pressure, check the intake boots for leaks. To me, this sounds less likely because you wolud have to have a massive leak to run this poorly. Good luck and welcome to the board.

Geico266

Welcome to DTR

Are you seeing any smoke out of the exhaust at low power? Try pulling codes to see if you have the 0216. Have you replaced the fuel filter?

Replacing an IP is not a big deal. 4-5 hours of wrenching should get r dun. There are several threads on "How To" to show you a few tricks. Do a search.

Credit to Bob Wagner for the following info;

VP44 replacement
Read these directions completely before you start. Look at your engine and read it again. Step 11 under installation requires some advance planning.

Tool list
3/8 ratchet
1/2 ratchet
8" 3/8 extension (wobble is best)
3/8" drive 10mm socket
11mm deep socket
15mm socket
13mm socket
19mm (or 3/4) wrench (angle is best)
17mm wrench
8mm wrench or 1/4" drive socket)
T-50 torx
Small "T" puller or gear puller
Pliers
Oil filter wrench (looks like a pair of pliers) or strap wrench
1/2" drive 24mm socket (alternator nut)
1/2" drive 27mm socket (vp44 axle nut)
3# retrieval magnet
Inspection mirror
Flashlight
Catch pan

1. Either disconnect the batteries, or cover the drivers side battery with a fender cover
2. Loosen the top intercooler boot clamp on the intake hat.
3. Remove the 5 10mm bolts on the intake hat (4 hold down and one for the oil dipstick). Remove the intake hat and place on the work bench. Lift the grid heater and lay it over on the PDC (next to the battery)
4. Using a piece of bailing wire or the like, pull the intercooler tube over to the drivers battery and secure it out of your way (wire to the battery hold down clamp).
5. Remove the 3 13mm bolts on the TPS housing. Lift up and disconnect the wire harness. If your unit has the harness holder on it, use a flat blade screwdriver to open it and lay the TPS housing by the gird heater.
6. Remove the first three 10mm bolts that hold the injector lines down to the engine, starting from the front of the engine.
7. Disconnect the two wire harness connectors on the fire wall to give you more work room to cyl. 5 and 6.
8. Disconnect the VP44 wire harness
9. Now I like to get the fuel filter out of the way for more room, so I remove the rear 17mm banjo from the fuel filter (line from the LP). You can skip these (***) fuel filter steps if you wish) You are going to want to place a catch pan ender the engine.
10. Drain the fuel filter into a catch pan – water drain, make sure you close it when it is drained (***)
11. Remove the two 10mm mounting bolts holding the fuel filter. (***)
12. Remove the 8mm bolt, cap, and blue bushings on the injector line clamp just in front of the lifting eye by cylinder #5.
13. Release the clamp on the crank case breather hose and remove the hose.
14. Using the oil filter pliers, unscrew the crank case breather on the timing cover and remove.
15. Remove the 27mm nut on the VP44 axle. Using a 3# magnet or better, grab the lock washer on the axle and remove ***DO NOT DROP IT DOWN THE TIMING COVER***
16. Emergency brake on, vehicle in neutral or park, use the 24mm socket on the alternator pulley and rotate the engine CCW until the notch on the VP44 timing gear is at 12 o’clock. Inspection mirror and a flashlight is handy.
17. Use the T-puller to separate the timing gear from the VP44 axle. Two threaded holes in the gear. It will “pop” and move back and forth when free. Remove the puller. More detailed info as posted by MACHINEST - The gear stays in the housing, make sure the key is at 12:00, there is 2 ea drilled and taped holes in the gear, back the nut off about 3/16 of an inch,put a puller on the gear and pop it losse,then take the nut and washer off,have a screw driver at the end of the pump shaft when doing this,because you don't want to drop the nut and washer in the gear set...be very carefull when putting the pump back into the gear,woodriff key,and if not lined up perfict you will roll the key out of the pump and if will fall you know where...A good lite and a small mirrow should help.....
18. Remove the 17mm banjo from the VP44 fuel supply from the filter. Catch the washer on the inside.
19. Lay the fuel filter down in the bottom of the engine compartment out of the way. (***)
20. Remove the 19mm banjo return valve from the VP44. Catch the washer on the inside.
21. Use the 19mm wrench to unscrew the injector lines at the valve cover.
22. Looking at the back of the injection pump, top is 12 o’clock, battery is 9, unscrew the 6, 7:30, and 9:45 injector lines and remove (should be cylinders 1,2, and 4).
23. Unscrew the 12, 4:30 and 2:15 (in this order is easiest) and remove.
24. Using the 15mm socket and extension, remove the four nuts on the VP44. Two outside (battery side) and two inside (block side).
25. Using the 13mm socket remove the two lower bolts on the rear support bracket (block side next two the PS pump). Now I have seen 10mm, and 15mm bolts down there, depending on year. Sometimes only one.
26. Remove the VP44.
27. Now on the 98.5 – 2000, there was a rear support bracket that was a real poor design and broke. If you encounter this (yours is broke), you will need to replace it and there is some work involved. YOU MUST HAVE THE REAR SUPPORT!!! If yours is broken, and you do not replace it, you will trash your pump.
28. Set the old pump upside down on your bench next to the new one. Make sure they are oriented the same. Transfer the support plate from the old pump to the new.
29. Stand both injection pumps on end and clock the two axles the same. The top of the injection pump (circuit board) being 12 o’clock, and if you rotated the engine, your old pump key way should be at about 10:45. DO NOT TURN THE OLD PUMP SHAFT!!!
30. Using a paint marker, or some sort of bright color paint, color the front edge of the key, and a straight line down the shaft threads to the tip of the axle on the new pump. This will help you make sure it is aligned correctly when you install.
31. Make sure the new pump has the o-ring installed on the mounting flange.
INSTALLATION
1. Set the new pump into position and insert into timing gear. Start 1 or 2 of the 15mm nuts on the studs to hold the pump in position.
2. Using the inspection mirror and light, look at the gear from the front of the engine and see if the line you painted is lined up with the notch in the gear. You should be able to see the front edge of the key through the notch. If not, remove the pump and adjust. DO NOT CONTINUE UNTIL YOU GET IT LINED UP. If the key is “almost there, only a 64th of an inch off” it is not there. It is possible to press the gear onto the pump with the key not aligned and really screw things up.
3. Snug up all 4 15mm nuts on the mounting studs.
4. Set the new lock washer and nut on the VP44 axle, and snug (35 ft #)
5. Remove the nut and washer (DO NOT DROP WASHER INTO TIMING COVER) and verify that the key is in the notch 100% lined up. If not, remove pump and inspect key for damage and adjust clocking, return to step 1.
6. Once the key is verified, install the two rear support bolts and tighten, torque the injection pump axle nut to 125# and tighten the 4 15mm mounting nuts.
7. Install the injector lines in reverse of removal (block side first) Tighten the valve cover ends finger tight, then back off ½ turn.
8. Mount the fuel filter back into position and install the banjos (filter and VP44).
9. Install the fuel return valve and line to the VP44.
10. Connect the VP44 wire harness
11. Now, I have a tool at work that hook up to the LP to run it constantly. After I have the feed lines connected to the VP (filter installed and return line) I connect the pump to the battery and start priming the system. You can use a “T” pin to back probe the POSITIVE side of the LP wire harness and a jumper wire to the battery positive, and the NEGATIVE side to ground (red wire + black wire - if you have a new extension). VERIFY WHICH IS POSITIVE IF YOU DO THIS BEFORE YOU START!!! You can cook your pcm if you do the wrong wires. You can prime by “bumping” the starter for the 30 second LP run time. I decided this was a PITA going back and forth from the engine to the ignition 15 or 20 times.
12. With the pump running, watch all the valve cover end injection lines for fuel. It will typically do 2 at a time, starting at #3. Wiggle the lines in and out to let the fuel/air out. Once you get good fuel flow, no bubbles, tighten the lines up and rotate the engine via alternator CCW (about ½ to ¾ turn on the alt) continue this until all 6 lines are bled. I will start assembling the other removed parts in reverse of removal as I do this (waiting for the air to bleed out) Skip the rotating the engine via the alternator if your are doing the bump the starter method
a. Crank breather valve, and hose
b. Hand thread the injector line mounting bolts
c. Grid heater and intake hat (only after #2 is bled and tightened)
d. Connect the wire harness’ at the fire wall (only after 5 and 6 are done)
e. TPS housing (only after #1 is bled and injector line mount is tightened)
13. Once all the lines are bled, tighten the injector mounting bolts, and the 8mm bolt, and blue bushings. Remove the pump power bypass if you used this method.
14. Verify that everything is installed and tightened up. Start the engine.
15. If you are having difficulty starting, you may have to crack open the injector lines on 1, 3, 4, and maybe 5. and crank the engine until you have good fuel flowing at the injector lines. Tighten them back up and try to start again.
16. Once the engine is running, visually verify that there are no fuel leaks. DO NOT CHECK FOR LEAKS BY HAD WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING!!!
17. Go to the car wash to wash off the fuel drippins from the engine and go for a 5 minute drive. Verify that there are no fuel leaks. # 6 is notorious for leaks (because you can’t get it tight enough due to lack of room to work).

This is a “Do it at your own risk” list of suggested procedures. The author accepts no responsibility for any individual attempting to perform repairs on their own vehicle if injuries or damages occur.

dynobo

Thanks guys. I haven't checked fuel presure yet but looked extensively for any leaks and didn't see any. There is no smoke. My dad followed me home yesterday and said he never saw any smoke coming from it. I just can't figure how it sits( idle at RED light) for a couple minutes and then runs fine for a minute it or so before loses power again. Maybe it is a restriction in the fuel somewhere.

HotRod82

Sounds like it is building up a little pressure while you sit at the light, then you accelerate and use that small amount of pressure up...then it starves again. Start with the fuel pressure, I would do it quick before you kill the vp44.

dynobo

Yea, I'll try to get to the fuel pressure today. I'm not going to drive it until it is fixed so if the vp44 hasn't already crapped out maybe I can get it fixed before it does. When you say "it is building up pressure" are you referring to the lift pump building pressure to the IP or the IP is building pressure for the injectors. Sorry for sounding dumb,. I'm just trying to understand. Also, where is the best place to check fuel pressure. Does it have a Schrader valve like the gassers or do I have to "T" into the line between the lift pump and IP.

fightin physics

this may sound like a dumb question but hows your fuel filter doing? you can screw a compucheck fitting into one of the banjo bolts there are specs for before and after the filter with a new filter and with an old filter... if you see vacuum then your vp is sucking fuel and the transfer pump is doing nothing

HotRod82

Yes, there is a schrader port on the side of the VP44 so check the pressure there. It would obviously be best if you had a long enough hose on your guage to run it into the cab and drive it. You need at least 8lbs or so under load. Hopefully it is just a fuel filter.

dynobo

Yea I would hope so, but luck rarely follows me around.
Thanks guys. I will get her checked and let you know what I find.

Tate

Early 24v's won't have a schrader valve. On the fuel filter canister, there are two pipe plugs, one to the front is post filter, the other is pre filter. 1/8 NPT.

tornado

You can actually change the injection pump in a little bit less than an hour. I changed the one in my truck in 45 minutes. you don't need to remove the front cover or anything. just remove the blow by tube undo the fuel pump gear carefully remove the nut and washer without dropping it down in the gearcase, then use a small mirror to see the key way then turn the engine till it is straight up so it won't fall out, then remove your air intake and fuel lines, diconnect your fuel pump then untorque it slide it out carefully, then put your new one in and start reinstalling everything. But make sure you disconnect the batteries before you start

Mike Stowe

Fuel filter sounds like a good starting point. Heck, without knowing the history of the truck, I'd go ahead and replace it anyway.

dynobo

Yea, filter is probably best place to start. I just always seem to fear the worst and hope for the best. Maybe that 30.00 filter will fix it and I can spend the rest elsewhere. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how I come out...........

gies

I hope it is the filter. Here's one good spot to pick up filters for a good and fair price - http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FS19598
Little less than 14 clams.
Jason

dynobo

Darn, they're right in my back yard too. I just went and spent $30 on one today. Maybe I take it back tomorrow and get one from there. Thanks for the post. Anybody you know sell vp44's at half price.

Anyone ever heard of a boost switch or "boost ............" that would cause the intermittent problems that I am having.