realest

I have the front end of my 91 W350 blown apart to replace the u-joints. I just realized that the seals for my axles are inboard. How hard are these to change? Is it a matter of draining fluid, removing cover and changing seal? Or do I have to mess with the gears?
I figure being I have the shafts out I might as well do the seals and change the oil.

Thanks in advance
Ryan

freight train

Ryan these are a little more difficult than that. You need to remove axles (you already have). Then remove the cover. Unbolt your two bearing caps on the diff. Then carefully pry out the diff. They make a spreader to make this easier but with the front end in the truck you cant use it because your springs are in the way. Once you have the diff out you can pop out the old seals. They are somewhat back into the tube housing. The hardest part is installing the seals. I fabricated a installer out of two threaded rods (long and a short). I bought the correct caps and seal installer getting the correct Miller tool # out of the factory service manual. I stick the threaded rod through the end cap, tube,seal,and then through the seal installer. I triple check it periodically as I tighten the nut on the threaded rod against the cap out on the end next to the C-joint. This slowly draws tight and then pulling the seal into its correct location. It is all but impossible to do it any other way. The factory service manual shows all the correct tools to do it but I only bought the correct Miller housing end cap and correct seal cup. Once they are installed carefully reinstall your diff and axles. Its not a hard job but one that should be done with an extra set of hands and eyes. I always rub a little grease on the metal part of the seal (around the outside) so it will slide into place. Im sure you could make the correct cap and cup out of something. I bought the correct ones because there are 6 of these trucks in my family and we new it would be a good investment. Trust me it has. Hope I was able to help you out.

This site is so awesome for info. Members are polite and try to help. I have been on other websites (nissan) and most of the people are jerks. RAM

realest

thank you freight train. i was afraid i was going to have to pull the differential out. i bought this truck this summer and have been slowly picking away as repair i need for it to pass a out of province safety. i might as well take it down a little further and change those seal being i am so close to it anyway. once i have it all apart and seal in hand i'll start looking around for materials to fab up a seal driver. won't be the first time i've had to make a driver and won't be the last.

realest

hey freight train.
you have obviously have been into these front ends a few time so maybe you can answer this question too.

i have noticed from sticky thread about blowing front ends apart that there is an external snap right that goes on the axle. of course my axles have the grooves for the snap rings but neither side had the snap rings installed. did the previous owner just not reinstall them after being inside the front hubs or do some come without snap rings? the larger internal snap ring was there. (oh fyi 91 w350 with 4500# front axles)

thanks again

freight train

There is only one true snap ring. It goes around the edge of the outer stub axle. It holds the internal lockouts drive flange onto the stub axle. There is a retaining ring around the outside edge. If there is no snap ring there then someone forgot to reinstall it. You will need to put them on. Hope I helped, RAM

Philip

A Snap On spindle nut socket turned backwards works real good for driving in new inner seals. The seal is supported on the extended end. The metal part of the seal bottoms out on the outer edge of the socket. You just use long extension to drive in the short side seal.

I don't know if the aftermarket sockets can do it. I don't have one to try a seal on.

realest

looks like i have to pop tie rod out to get the tie rod tube out of the way. i don't think one can sneak the differential by it. correct?

i have an otc spindle nut socket. i'll let you know how well that works when i get there

realest

Okay finally got some free time and was able to drop the front diff out of the truck. I had to removed one side of the tie rod like i thought i was going to have to do. Luckily i just did tie rods so it popped off with ease.

I bought some skf seals 15194. They fit but the ones I pounded out have a metal bevel guide to assist with the installation of the axles. Does anyone know if I can get these? A part number? I am thinking the dealer if anywhere. Please chime in if you know. Thanks

pulltilbroke

Check your local driveline shop that carries Dana Spicer parts, they should have what ya need.

CaptainChrysler

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pro...-spline-shafts

4wdfactory is awesome.

I would like to know how they expect you to be able to get the axle in without ruining the generic replacements.

The steel guide seems to be re-usable, if you can get the old seals out without ruining it. Not sure if you can get the regular seal into it or if it takes a slighly smaller O.D. seal.

Philip

Those guides are made as part of the seal. I don't have a number for the correct seals.

A regular seal will get wiped out trying to get the axle threw it.

realest

yeah captin that is the axle seal i pounded out. and no it is no longer useable LOL. they are ruined from pounding them out.

looks like a national brand seal NS 470682. will have to continue looking and see if i cross up the seal number or just order from the website. living in canada i would like to source is locally first if i can

freight train

I know I have bought that seal at napa in the past, I even believe it was a National with the metal guide. If not that # should cross over at any napa. National is a big company.

realest

Well I went to Napa this morning and tried to get the parts dude to find me the seal I wanted. No luck though as he gave up after looking for a couple minutes at his computer screen. I asked if he would grab the seal so I could have a look at it. He pointed at the picture at the computer screen and said. "see just a regular seal". At this point I said it and headed to Dodge. Buddy pulled up the proper seal in seconds. Didn't ask me if it was 2 or 4 wheel drive after telling him it was a W350 nor have to ask me if it were manual or auto LOL.

The SKF 15194's cost me 9.37 a piece. The seals from dodge with the guide, P/N 3894131, cost me 17.80 a piece. Almost twice as much, but well worth the piece of mind and easy of axle install. In my mind it is anyway.

CaptainChrysler

You could re-use it if you wanted to. 1-1/2" socket and a long extension to knock it out.