Lost Lake

I had the 1-2 shuttle for well over 60,000 miles but it was getting worse lately and the trans wouldn't shift under big throttle from 1st to 2nd. Under light throttle the trans would go back and forth between 1st and 2nd many times. I learned to accelerate at 8 lbs of boost so the truck would shift more normally.

I bought the new REC solenoid kit and put that in tonight. I adjusted the inside band and it wasn't far off. The outside front band was really loose though, and after adjustment the inner set screw is almost flush with the set nut. I have maybe 1/8" before the inner screw is flush with the outer nut. A test drive proved the truck shifts perfectly now under all conditions.

In the pan I found flakes about the size of a corn flake, two of them, they were not metal as they weren't attracted to my magnet. They were really thin and brittle. Any idea what they were?

And there was a good amount of fine fuzz on the magnet. At least an 1/8 thick coating all around.

Any idea if I can sneak a new front band in without dropping the trans? Any idea if it's on its last leg?

diesel4play

If the flakes were silver it is likely aluminum, if not then plastic. We have lots of both in these transmissions. I have read that that solenoid and valve are the first issue with these if you do not have big power. I am a few miles behind you and having the same shifting issues but not too bad yet. I would like to go with a built tranny when I repair it but may have to take it in for the warranty on the solenoid. Seems like a bother to be without my truck for who knows how long to put **** poor parts back in.

Dodgezilla

I'd bet that the flakes are material from that loose band. The trans needs to come out to install new bands BUT I WAS reading somewhere about a mfr that claims they have a band that can be installed without removing the trans. I don't know if I'd trust one of those PLUS you still have to get the old one out somehow.
The pile of black dust on the magnet is normal...

I recently had to put the solenoid in my truck too. It was still under warranty then but I didn't want to deal with a dealer visit so I just fixed it myself for about the same cost as my deductible...

no_6_oh_no

Yep, the front band is about done. Mine is flush with the lock nut , time for a rigid band upgrade.

The black fuzz is normal, the stock steels make metal becuas ethey are soft. One very good reason to change fluid every 30k. The thin brittle flakes are probably front band material from slipping it.

BPoulsen

This is good information! I'm needing to do the same thing to mine - that or just replace with a goerend tranny, but that much $$$ is kind of hard to come by right now.

snyyyper

I would not be worried about the depth of the adjusting bolt inside the lock nut. I adjusted mine several months ago for the first time at 96K miles and the adjusting bolt is now way down into the threads of the lock nut, to the point that most of the lock nut threads are visible. Mine had been slipping when shifting under full throttle for a couple of weeks before I adjusted it so I figured the tranny was going to give it up very soon, but it is doing fine at 103K miles now. BTW, I bought this truck brand new and the bands had NEVER been adjusted, and the adjusting bolt was flush with the lock nut before I adjusted it.

no_6_oh_no

Sorry, but you are completely wrong about that. Once these flex bands start showing less than 3 threads above the lock nut there is a problem. When its flush you had better drive it easy and plan for replacement

You have either wore the lining off and its running metal on metal or bent the band where the strut attaches. Quite likely the former and you will need a new direct drum. You are one throttle blip from losing 2nd gear and possibly worse damage.

snyyyper

I'll let you know if mine craps out.

Lost Lake

Okay, well whatever the flakes are I know I've experienced some significant wear. I think it was due to letting the 1-2 shuttle happens for so long. That forward backward shifting couldn't have helped anything.

I called Goerend and was quoted $3700, then if I want them to put it in add another $600 (somebody has to put it in.... ) and for a billet input add another $600. Add taxes if I have them install or add shipping if I install it, and either way the trans will cost between $4500 and $5100.

Numbers like that sure make a guy think he can drop his functioning transmission and repair it. Clean it out, add new clutches and bands, $5,000 is a lot of coin to work with.

200cs

Lost Lake,

I just had mine rebuilt by a freinds shop and it was about 2k otd. Billet converter, improved solenoids and all new premium wear goodies. It runs great and shifts hard. There is absolutely no way I would spend the kind of money you were quoted. If it were a race truck, then I might consider it but, I would not race this thing so there we go.......

You might try calling some reputable local shops and see what they have to offer. These 48re transmissions are not rocket science. I am sure there are local options with good results.

btw, mine was done due to a worn 2nd gear band. Kind of a high fail item on these units I was told.....

Good luck.

no_6_oh_no

Not a matter of IF, only a matter of WHEN.

annabelle

x2........sooner now that you messed with the bands......you are a re-builders best friend.

Dodgezilla

I adjusted my band that has the bolt on the outside of the case recently. I'm happy to report that there are still plenty of threads showing....

slaights

Anyone have a video or pictures on how to adjust the front band?
I have same slipping in 2nd gear, 75k miles. Just replaced the gov solenoid, and didn't know to check rear bands at the time.

cnsmoke

I know there are a few threads on here that go in depth on this, just use the search option.