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48RE: band at end of adjustment = rivets chew up drum

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Old 04-09-2011, 09:02 PM
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48RE: band at end of adjustment = rivets chew up drum

my band was down to the rivets


2006 dodge Heavy duty 48RE, took it in to change out the OEM sorry solenoid for the upgraded GM solenoid. was shifting sloppy. i had changed out the OEM solenoid years ago, and done a Fluid & filter few months ago (all myself)
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...x-t229203.html

my tranny guy recommended a band adjustment, and it needed it.
by the time he got it right, the adjuster bolt was about flush with the lock nut that holds it.

so he recommended dropping the valve body, and looking at it.
was very loose, and he knew how to fish a new band in & out without dropping the whole tranny, just from the area above the valve body.

fished out the old one, and it was down the rivets. a few more hundred miles, and i would have looking at a tranny rebuild, which most folks quote at $5k for these trucks.

and then, he recommended a bunch of "failure prone" upgrades while he had it apart.

it shifts & drives GREAT now. and he brought it in about half the cost I thought he would.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:41 AM
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Any specifics on the new parts, cost, and time required?
Old 04-10-2011, 08:00 AM
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Who is your tranny guy? I just had mine rebuilt due to what may have been the same thing.
Old 04-11-2011, 10:36 AM
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Exactly why my bands have never been touched in 156,000 miles. If there isn't a directly related issue to the bands, don't touch them.
Old 04-11-2011, 08:16 PM
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from my tranny guy, he got it in well under $500, but YMMV

Originally Posted by my tranny guy
Borg Warner band. Just grind a little on the band anchor until it slips around the drum.
Only use Borg Warner or Borg Warner equivalent. Never under any circumstances use an OE type band, they are junk.

Part numbers are from PATC's site.

#3A3 aluminum accumulator piston. There are other designs but this one works fine for most applications, anything is better than the OE plastic one.

#REC GM conversion solenoid. This will work fine in stock applications, it is a bit more pricey. Please note that Borg Warner makes a better OE type solenoid that works and is designed better than the OE solenoid and is just a few dollars more than OE but is less costly than the GM conversion. Big plus for the purist also.

#618S 3/4 accumulator sping. This should be check while the vb is down. I find MANY of them broken. If it aint broke, leave it, if it is replace it. OE versions are out there if you dont have the firm 3/4 shift.

I would toss in a new governor sensor/transducer while you have it all down, it is a common failure item.

Of course filter, fluid and pan gasket where applicable. Id say the job takes about 2 hours, thats with the proper tools, and experience. Allow for more if you dont have one or both.

Browse this site for good parts. WWW.WITTRANS.COM They have the BW band, solenoid, filter and everything else ive mentioned.

If you need any more detail or specifics let me know.

Also, Navydood, it doesnt matter if they are every adjusted or not. If its gonna happen its gonna happen. Just luck of the draw.
Old 04-12-2011, 12:33 PM
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good info 04CTD I am getting ready to do the same. I am wondering how he fished the bands out though????
Old 04-15-2011, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by LeviMXUSMC
good info 04CTD I am getting ready to do the same. I am wondering how he fished the bands out though????
Borg Warner band. Just grind a little on the band anchor until it slips around the drum.

he said he ground that tab on the band down.

not sure why he broke the old one.

if you can't get it, PM me and I will you his number.
Old 04-15-2011, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 04ctd
Borg Warner band. Just grind a little on the band anchor until it slips around the drum.
Considering the amount of stress on that band, how light the flex band is, and raised line pressures, I think its only a matter of time before you have a problem.

The tabs on these flex bands will BEND under high loads. Grinding them just seems to be a way further compromise a weak spot.
Old 04-15-2011, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by NavyDood
Exactly why my bands have never been touched in 156,000 miles. If there isn't a directly related issue to the bands, don't touch them.
Ditto.....mine went 220,000 miles before I upgraded them along with my rebuild.......OME bands were still good.
Old 04-18-2011, 09:12 AM
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those aren't rivets, there are no rivets in that band just spot welds where the anchors are welded on, as for the cheap fix if your band looked that bad the front clutches won't be far behind, enjoy it while it last it won't be long.
Old 04-18-2011, 11:09 AM
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Gonna last me awhile.

I bought a gas chevy. and parked the dodge, no longer a dd
Old 04-18-2011, 03:49 PM
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sorry to hear, man thats like shooting yourself in the head to cure a headache!!!
Old 04-21-2011, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by NavyDood
Exactly why my bands have never been touched in 156,000 miles. If there isn't a directly related issue to the bands, don't touch them.
Agree only adjust them if needed and not at every service like so many want to do as all that is, is just future work for them aka job security.
Old 04-21-2011, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DBLR
Agree only adjust them if needed and not at every service like so many want to do as all that is, is just future work for them aka job security.
Uh huh, but that in itself is a conundrum.

Unless you adjust them, you don't know they need adjusted. Failing to adjust for wear will eat the OE band as fast as not adjusting correctly.

Best idea is throw the OE away at the first chance and get a good rigid in there.

Any power enhancements and they really don't last well.
Old 04-21-2011, 05:16 PM
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personally put the raybestos high energy band in all the trans i build have been getting very good service out of them some in excess of 300,000 miles.
getting the two three shift timed right is as important as brand of band when it comes to durability, especially with a low stall convertor


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