turboman1

I installed the 3 GSK kit along with a #6 plate and guages. I thought the 3 GSK would let it rev to 3200 rpm but my barely gets to 2600 rpm when it is in drive and the only time i got it to 3000 was when i put it into first and the tires started slipping causing the revs to jump. Is that all it is supposed to rev to? I like it put i am not fully impressed as everyone says it is one of the best modes.

Thanks Adam

1stGen545

are you sure you have them set were the stock ones were. Sounds like they may be lose.

Danavilla

THE 3KGSK I installed in my '98 let it rev to well over 3200, fast. Acceleration to cruising speed was very much quicker than stock. Sounds like you aren't getting the benifit of the conversion. Mine didn't perform right at first. On research I learned that the GSK can affect the position of the gov.lever so adjustment is needed. I found that the lever was passing under the fuel plate instead of making contact. Once adjusted, wow!

Dan

96 Ram man

I had mine installed by a new diesel place in town. It revs just fine! I'd say you need to review your installation procedures. It's the biggest fun factor there is.

turboman1

I installed exactly how the tst kit said to. We put both the nuts on the same place the other ones were on at the same depth. Anyone have any videos of how there's revs because i am pretty sure i am not getting the full benefit? I did a #6 plate and 3gsk and it is not that much faster, only had a #11 plate in it before.

turboman1

O Danavilla is that adjustment by taking the back part of the pump off and pushing on the pedal to see if the lever gets to the plate and if it doesn't you need to tighten some bolts or something. I remember reading about it when people would move their plates forwards or backwards the lever would not contact right causing it to hang up then it would jump the hump and all the power would come on at once. Is this the adjusting you are talking about.

Thanks Adam

BigErksG2

do you have a stock converter? i slipped the crap out of my stock converter with only a 6 plate and it would put nothing to the ground.

Danavilla

BigErks: If the tranny were slipping, he still should have the revs.

Turboman: The instructions I used were called "the Secret Gov. Adjustment" or something like that and were on the website of one of the major providers of stuff for our trucks. I'll look around and see if I can find it.

Dan

Danavilla

OK, here's the skinny. It's on PDR's web page, Technical section. This is the link but if that fails, it's Piersdiesel.com.

http://piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

Just BE SURE you don't back off the screw/nut too far and drop it in the case. I understand it can be a real bear to fish it out and that sometimes the pump has to be removed to get it.

Before you loosen it, take a good look to be sure it needs adjustment. The instructions are pretty good, just take your time.

Dan

Box5

I can hit 3k fast if I want to, but i have a 5spd. I don't think the auto is liking the higher revs, is it a stock build auto? If so, it's just sucking up all ur power and u could add huge injectors but ur auto would still just be as unefficient as could be. If you still have the stock TC and stuff, I'd reccomend upgrading that right away.

1stGen545

here is mine with 4k gsk. Not the same but cool. I still had a lot of peddle to go. Need to advance timming.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JN5F3zGh0o

Danavilla

My '98 was a stock auto with a billit, RV type converter. I never raced it but the improvement pulling my 11K RV onto the freeways was dramatic.
Da

Fueling around

Adam;
Let's rehash the possibilites and please don't take offense to the comments:

Did you try free reving the engine in neutral? It should go well into the 3k range unless you really have a 94-95 truck. They tend to not rev well with only a 3k kit.

A botched the GSK install.
You did leave the outer (large) spring in place?
You removed both pieces of the old seat before adding the single new seat?
Spring tension is firm. Springs are all held firm but you can still push the top washer down?

A #6 plate is the worst profile for a GSK. Remove it and go for a test drive. If the governor lever is hanging up on the plate that will let you know. Changing the governor lever adjustment is not a forgiving process.

Moved the AFC full forward?
You installed a boost elbow or blocked the wastegate.

Very possible your timing is so retarded it will not generate the revs.

Let us know

turboman1

Fueling around it will rev to 3000 in nuetral, but thats it. The trans is a stock automatic but it doesn't seem to be slipping (When the TC is locked and you push on it, it will hold it in overdrive and make the engine work until it downshifts out.

On the install everything you listed is good.

I have a #11 plate should i try that. Not sure if doing it without the plate is good, I have heard a lot of opinions on whether it is ok or bad for the pump.

I have not moved the afc full forward it is in stock positions (That is the unit that sits above the fuel plate with an arm in it and a boost line going from the intake manifold to the back of it)

As for timing, would my timing be way retarded if i have to push on the gas pedal for it to start. Ever since i got it i have to barely push down on the gas for it to start and then it will go put if i don;t it cranks alot and maybe won't start, I have always pushed the pedal down after I felt it was cranking to long.

On i side note i took it out last night and I shifted it manually from 1st to 2nd and to drive, and i held it in to 3 grand, so maybe it is working right but its just the transmission that is not letting me get the full potential out of it?

Thanks for all the help

Adam

Fueling around

Time to check some more basics.

Do you have full throttle travel? The cable will stretch so you mash the pedal to the floor, but the bell crank doesn't fully rotate.

If the AFC doesn't retract it may prevent more rpm.

Local guy that has an injection service says it can run safely wihtout a plate.

I'm also thinking the spring tension is a couple clicks loose