Gsquared

Welp, long story short...

I was having pretty good amounts of blowby, pulled the head to check it out, discovered number 1 cylinder using a good amount of oil, and the number 6 cylinder walls scored and grooved pretty **** badly, shavings sitting on top of the piston. (groove about 1/16" deep).

I have no current mods on the truck other than an aftermarket exhaust system and an intake system that i inherited with the truck.

Not sure what the guy before me had on it, but there is a spot on the dash where 2-sided tape was used to hold some kind of display unit up.


Can this be fixed without spending more than the truck is worth, or should i put it back together and let some other poor soul deal with it?

knalb

4-7k motor swap is your easiest option.

As for most cost effective, strip the motor, have a machine shop sleeve #6, and check the rest if needed. That's going to run you about $120 per cylinder that needs a sleeve. About $150 per cylinder for a rebuild "kit" and then bottom end bushings gaskets. I'd say all together 2-3k if you "do it right". That's with ARP studs and bolts(cheap insurance).

Those are all just estimates mind you, so you'd be better of calling around and putting together a parts list. If you can do the labor of the assembly, which it sounds like you can, then it's not terrible to build it back up, and will be cheaper than trying to get a replacement motor.

Gsquared

i have been pricing some options just now.

I am in a bind with work scheduling me 72-84 hours a week, so i will not be able to do any of the labor.

With that being said, getting a shop to get the engine out and back together after machining will probably cost as much as getting a shop to put a new short block in.

I think i might have to cut my losses and move on.

Gsquared

Been doing some more research...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=short+block

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=short+block

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=short+block

Does anyone know what TF is going on with the number 1 and number 6 injectors killing blocks? Are these instances all coincidental or is this going to happen 100% of the time when a "tuner" or "chip" is used?

I am starting to see a lot of horror stories with the 3rd gen, maybe the 12V is the best way to go...

Names_TJ

yea, its becoming a common problem thats getting scarey.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=burnt

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=burnt

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=block

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=block

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t253391.html

spooled05

A 3rd gen with a 12 valve would be awesome!

Swayse

Lot of local guys are having problems too. I like my truck, but I'm thinking about going back to second gen, or back to gas.

Gsquared

Kind of an update, I am having the bad cylinders bored and sleeved with the cummins sleeve kit. Republic Diesel out of Cincinnati is doing the work.


One question for everyone...the shop rebuilding the engine says it is typical to replace all of the oil jets, or "coolers" during a rebuild. I am not sure this is completely necessary.

What say you all?...

turbohi

my brother in law is rebuilding his 12v. and the shop guy there put in all new oil injectors...when i build my high powered turbo mitsu motors i replace all the injectors in them...never know when one might be plug up and the cooling of them wont work...then your piston over heats and well time to rebuild again....

BLACKBEAR

DO as they say it will save you money in the longe run all so have your injectors check.GOOD LUCK

Hvytrkmech

Absolutely. When I overhaul any diesel it gets new piston cooler jets. On the Cummins you can not get them out without pulling the oil pan. Once they have age on them they swell in the channel then break when you try to pull them out.

nwflyoda

a good friend of mine just had an injector hang open on his 06 and now the dealer is replacing the injector and short block. luckily he still had the warranty. i believe its looking to be about a 11K+ repair job.

Gsquared

well the truck is finally all put back together and running again... I ended up getting upgraded injectors (F1 flux 1's +60 hp). [three of the stock injectors were bad.]

They ended up sleeving the entire block at the machine shop, and I keep hearing from different folks that they should have only done the 3 cylinders that really needed it; stating that reliability will suffer and that I won't be able to mod the engine without it blowing up.

Any truths to this?