2001 2500 24 valve a few questions re: trans/fuel filter
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2001 2500 24 valve a few questions re: trans/fuel filter
I did a search and didn't find what I was looking for, here goes:
1) I'm going to change the fuel filter this weekend, any tricks and where is it located?
2) My auto trans seems to be acting strange when I first start up and drive - it comes out of gear while in drive. If I put it in park for a few seconds and then shift back to drive it seems fine. Is that a band deal I need to have looked at?
1) I'm going to change the fuel filter this weekend, any tricks and where is it located?
2) My auto trans seems to be acting strange when I first start up and drive - it comes out of gear while in drive. If I put it in park for a few seconds and then shift back to drive it seems fine. Is that a band deal I need to have looked at?
Last edited by Eddie C; 12-04-2008 at 12:43 PM. Reason: spelling
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Cant really help you with the transmission.
But, the fuel filter is really easy:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm
A couple of tips: Have some fresh diesel on hand to fill the fuel filter housing before you drop in the new filter and bump the starter so that the lift pump cycles and fills the fuel filter housing the rest of the way. If you do not do that, you may have trouble starting it.
Are you sure your lift pump is working well?? Sometimes if the lift pump is bad, you wont get it restarted until you put in a new lift pump. Be aware of that.
But, the fuel filter is really easy:
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm
A couple of tips: Have some fresh diesel on hand to fill the fuel filter housing before you drop in the new filter and bump the starter so that the lift pump cycles and fills the fuel filter housing the rest of the way. If you do not do that, you may have trouble starting it.
Are you sure your lift pump is working well?? Sometimes if the lift pump is bad, you wont get it restarted until you put in a new lift pump. Be aware of that.
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Thanks for the fuel directions, looks like I can handle that.
No idea on the lift pump, the truck has 110k on it and it's been in our family since it was new. I'm pretty sure it's never been replaced. It seems to be a doom and gloom item on here, but I've never heard of anyone having replaced with all the people that I know that have the same truck in my area.
No idea on the lift pump, the truck has 110k on it and it's been in our family since it was new. I'm pretty sure it's never been replaced. It seems to be a doom and gloom item on here, but I've never heard of anyone having replaced with all the people that I know that have the same truck in my area.
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Search for lift pump or fuel pressure under second gen and you will have WEEKS of reading.
There are two things you need to get -
1) A fuel pressure guage for monitioning the lift pump. This single item alone can save you over a thousand bucks.
2) A better than stock lift pump. Right now, the AirDogs are on sale for $499.
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That's what my buddy used to say until we checked his fuel pressure. Never moved again until we installed an HPFP. Lift pump DOA! How long? He has NO idea.
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No, its a much better idea to install a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Dont trust your injection pump to an idiot light.
I can provide some pics and a little how to if you cant find it in a search.
I can provide some pics and a little how to if you cant find it in a search.
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Where the best place to get the parts - best as in complete kit and price. I'd rather not do a whole pillar with multiple gauges. I'd just like to do the fuel pressure gauge that matches the truck. It appears that the gauge is about double the price, but I'm guessing it would give me a better indication of what is going on. I had some body work done on the truck last year so I think I'll be keeping it for awhile. Might as well do it right.
Thanks for all your help so far
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Where the best place to get the parts - best as in complete kit and price. I'd rather not do a whole pillar with multiple gauges. I'd just like to do the fuel pressure gauge that matches the truck. It appears that the gauge is about double the price, but I'm guessing it would give me a better indication of what is going on. I had some body work done on the truck last year so I think I'll be keeping it for awhile. Might as well do it right.
Thanks for all your help so far
Thanks for all your help so far
In all seriousness, you should be looking at a Pyrometer, boost guage, and fuel pressure guage, especially if you plan on adding more HP or towing. Guages are cheap insurance, and excellent troubleshooting tools. They let you know what is happening with your engine and can help you see a problem before it turns into something big and $$. $300 worth of guages is a small investment compared to the cost of the truck or turbo or engine.
Parts are fairly easy to come by and you can put in a FP guage for $50 or so. I have been running fuel into the cab for 5+ years and have never had a problem, even in minus 30 to minus 40 temps.
All you need for a FP guage setup is a guage, a tapped banjo bolt for a 24V (available from any diesel shop), some line (1/8" Air Brake line works good, as does ss braided line as well as some hydraulic line), some fittings, and a needle vale or pressure snubber.
Heres some pics of what your setup should look like:
Sample point #1 (fuel filter outlet - preferred location):
Alternate sample point - Test Port on the VP-44 Injector Pump:
An excellent place to buy fittings and guage packages from is: www.vulcanperformance.com
As I said before, guages and a fuel system upgrade are mandatory items that must be put on these trucks to make them reliable.
#11
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As far as the transmission goes, there are probably two sure things you need to check:
1. Check the fluid properly. Park on level ground. Truck idling. Shift from D to R to D to R to D to N. Leave in Neutral with the e-brake on. Check trans fluid. Fluid should be red with no smell of burnt stuff.
2. Clean and check the negative battery terminal connections.
Both of these will cause tranny stuff to happen. Easy to fix now, expensive later....
1. Check the fluid properly. Park on level ground. Truck idling. Shift from D to R to D to R to D to N. Leave in Neutral with the e-brake on. Check trans fluid. Fluid should be red with no smell of burnt stuff.
2. Clean and check the negative battery terminal connections.
Both of these will cause tranny stuff to happen. Easy to fix now, expensive later....
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90 hp - just enought to wake it up and not cause any problems. I was worried about the auto trans.
Thanks for the link on the parts, I'll check it out. The pictures help too.
I checked the fluid using that procedure, it smells and looks fine. I'll check the battery connections. I think they are fine, but I'm not 100% on that.
Thanks for the link on the parts, I'll check it out. The pictures help too.
Originally Posted by sheriffav8r
As far as the transmission goes, there are probably two sure things you need to check:
1. Check the fluid properly. Park on level ground. Truck idling. Shift from D to R to D to R to D to N. Leave in Neutral with the e-brake on. Check trans fluid. Fluid should be red with no smell of burnt stuff.
2. Clean and check the negative battery terminal connections.
Both of these will cause tranny stuff to happen. Easy to fix now, expensive later....
1. Check the fluid properly. Park on level ground. Truck idling. Shift from D to R to D to R to D to N. Leave in Neutral with the e-brake on. Check trans fluid. Fluid should be red with no smell of burnt stuff.
2. Clean and check the negative battery terminal connections.
Both of these will cause tranny stuff to happen. Easy to fix now, expensive later....
I checked the fluid using that procedure, it smells and looks fine. I'll check the battery connections. I think they are fine, but I'm not 100% on that.
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Eddie,
Do a search for "transmission hunting". You may find a description of your problem and a simple fix.
You can wrap the wire with foil!
Do a search for "transmission hunting". You may find a description of your problem and a simple fix.
You can wrap the wire with foil!
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