runamuk

Ok guys this is my first diesel vehicle and I'm not about to screw it up. My previous Ram 1500,Qc, 4x4, dyno'ed 347 hp at rear wheels. Not easy to do running a 318 w/3.55 gears and 32" all terrains!
The IRS said I had to buy new truck this year 2004 or give them 40K
I have a 2005 QC 3500 Laramie 4x4, CTD, 4 spd auto, 4.10's, sunroof, loaded with all the factory options except power pedals and GPS.
I bought the truck on a Tuesday and put it on the road to Yuma from Sacramento on the following Thursday with 570 miles on it.
70 mph, cruise, through the flatlands, over Tehachapi, into the desert. 16.5 mpg average.
I got 16.75 mpg running my 318 over the same trek.
Granted the difference is not all that, but....I want perfection.
I realize that the gear ratio is different 2200 rpm @70mph as compared to 1900 rpm in gasser.
My questions are:
1. Intake or exhaust modifications first ? Which type?
2. Which black box mfg will not void factory warranty?
3. Petroleum or synthetic motor oil, and when? What weight for medium towing 6000lb+ in 100f heat?

Please remember this is a California, (land of fruits and nuts), vehicle so smog laws still apply here.

Rain Man

Most diesels will run in at around 6,000 miles and will run better. They also will at around the 20,000 mile range come to a better fuel milage or as they say it will come to you. When someone told me that I thought they were crazy but on my 99 CTD it did exactly that. I was getting around 17mpg and it started getting better at around 18,000 miles and when it hit 20,000 mile range I could get 23 mpg empty. Not bad far a 3500 Quad 4x4 4:10. I hope the 05 has the power in it to keep me satisfied with out doing too much bombing to very little to enjoy.

bhoeffner

runamuck,

Congrats on the truck, you will have many wonderful miles ahead with CTD. Here are my opionions to your questions.
1. AFE pro gard 7 filter system
2. Exhaust - With the 05 being a true 4" inch all the plumbing is good might want to consider a highful muffler. I am looking at a simple fix a 51" Donaldson to replace the stock one. this will increase flow rates, but retains the stock quiteness.
3. Any box or down loader will result in a void warrentee if found or suspect to be on the truck.
4. This topic is a contraversal one. Some folks change to syn. right after they get the truck and swear but doing so. Cummins recaminds running pet. until 20K to allow ring and valve seating. As far as weight I would like 15-40 would be fine. Whatever oil you decide on make sure it meets both the cummins and DCX spec. to avoid any problems the dealer may try to give you.


Hope this is helpful. You will find a wealth of knowledge on this site.

grizzlydiesel

I have a brand new 3500 4x4 long bed diesel quad cab and I only have 210 miles on it. Can someone explain to me why synthetic motor oil might prevent the piston rings from seating properly?

runamuk

As it has been explained to me:

The break in period can take up to 60k miles depending on driving. (VIA Cummins mechanic)

Even the owners manual says to tow something after 500 miles and do not top 50mph while towing for the first 500 miles, to ensure proper heating and cooling of internal components. I.E. "Case hardened", while in transit.

Synthetics are ,"Supposed", to run cooler, longer, and stronger and prevent all types of friction. They would probably run right past the rings and be wasted out of your tail pipe.

Personally I'm waiting till 12K before changing over , see royal purple.com, amsoil.com for more info.

Raspy

So which one are you, a fruit or a nut?

Wetspirit

Raspy

It's hard to imagine a 318 getting better mileage than a CTD. The 318's are one of the worst mileage engines I've seen. They are tough, but drink fuel.
My best mileage on my CTD was my first tank. 21.7. Best I've done and now I have 43,000 miles on it, so don't expect a big change after breakin.

Wetspirit

runamuk

This forum is about diesels and I'm sorry if I'm not politically correct but I'm a red guy in a blue state. My 2 kids, 2 x wives, will tesitfy to the nuts part! LMAO

runamuk

318's definitly eat good! I had to do a little extra to get those numbers!
Jba headers, air raid spacer, 3" in/out high flow cat, single 3" flowmaster, Hypertech power programmer, Turbo city intake, Crower 1.7 roller rockers, Castrol 5-50, and Bosch +4 plugs w/8mm wires. It began life above 3000rpm! I could not tow anything, but it got great hp and mileage #'s.

So I'm no stranger to improvements just diesel improvements. FYI
Dr performance and Granatelli motorsports have black boxes guaranteed not to void your CTD warranty. I found the Dr performance flyer at my dealer and Granatelli online.

DslEngr

It's not just applicable to diesels, but all engines. New engines have a lot of irregularities on the metal surfaces from the manufacturing process. You need a little bit of friction and varying loads and speeds to knock those irregularities off. That's why the first oil change is usually like at 500 or 1000 miles. You don't want those metal shavings circulating around for a full oil change cycle. You get that stuff out of there before it damages your engine.

Synthetic oils are more slippery and more costly, so you want to use conventional oils in new engines for a few miles, let everything get worn in properly, and then switch if you desire.

T & T

The intake/exhaust and box mods MAY give you better milage, but time, a heavy foot, and dragging around a 10,000 pound load will break-in the engine. The engines are very tight out of the factory.
I had milage issues with my 04.5 until bashing my service guy's head against the pavement to do the TSB 18-037-04, and now that I have that and about 10,000 miles, I am getting pretty good MPG.

bhoeffner

"So I'm no stranger to improvements just diesel improvements. FYI
Dr performance and Granatelli motorsports have black boxes guaranteed not to void your CTD warranty. I found the Dr performance flyer at my dealer and Granatelli online."

That might apply until you actualy have a engine or transmission problem. The folks at DCX will defintly try to tie the problem to the box. Even in the owners manual it states any modificaton to the truck can result in a void warentee. This is coming from the folks that would accept or reject the claim, not from a company selling aftermarket add-ons. An example would be K&N filters, states it will not void your manufactures warentee, however there have been folks that had dusted engines due to the filter not meeting the DC requirements on the CTD, and DC did not cover the repair. To make matters on the posts I read K&N would not back there own product that caused the problem. Not saying the above mentioned boxes or manufactures would do the same, just realize that you might be playing for repair out of your own pocket.

RonsRig

A Cummins tech told me that you can wear in an engine with synthetic oil, but it will take you 100K miles instead of 20K. Are you going to keep the truck that long?

runamuk

I didn't want to sell my last one! 112k miles on a gasser.

I'll probably keep this one for 3.5 years or until I cannot depreciate it anymore.

Either way my business depends on this truck so I have to take care of my vehicles and I can write off the best maintenance possible.

I'll probably stick with the Factory Valvoline 15-40 until about 12k before changing to synthetic. Then I'll switch to?????


This is the real question.

rementa

i think there's a dealer in auburn that installs the predator box. as far as i'm concerned if a dealer sticks it in the truck it should be covered by the warrenty.