1998.5 tranny surging
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1998.5 tranny surging
I have searched several different threads on this problem but have not found the solution to mine yet. I have 145,000 trouble free miles on my truck and have not had any major problems to this point. At approx 45 mph the tranny will start shifting / locking and unlocking. If I push the pedal on down the truck will run fine until it levels off and it will start surging again. I have did the the apps reset twice. I have cleaned all the grounds I can find, I wrapped the ground wire to the alternator with foil. I have added the jumper ground from the engine to the drivers side battery. The grey connectors on the passengers side are clean. One thread mentioned they changed the alternator at 150,000 and that fixed their problem. The fluid is clean and the level is in the middle of the safe mark when checking warm and in neutral. My fuel pressure stays at a constant 12-13 while the surging is going on.
All help and Ideas appreciated.
All help and Ideas appreciated.
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Batteries are one year old last fall, I have not removed the computer from the firewall and checked to make sure the problem is not in that area. I am running the yellow batteries from Walmart with a good replacment policy. I will unhook each one seperately and test them. That would be the cheapest fix.
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
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I read about recalibrating the apps somewhere. I'm going to try that on mine this spring. I had the problem starting last Aug, I did the battery disconnect reset and it worked for about 3 months but now the surging is back.
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I know you cleaned the grds but try unplugging those two connectors under the passenger battery and flushing them with WD40. Also, try hooking a grd wire from the PCM (lower right corner) to the battery. Let us know if you have any success.
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Are you sure the tranny is surging? My truck has done this for about 2 years. I've changed everything. Had the transmission/TC checked out twice thinking that was the problem, all was working fine.
Gene
Gene
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I have had this truck for a couple years and it is doing something new, when this happens the tach jumps 4-500 rpms at the same time as the motor revs up.
Before when it spooled up it would be smooth with good acceleration. Now it cuts out and the rpms change with the up and down shifting.
Could the alternator be worn enough to cause this electrical noise problem? maybe a alternator rebuild would be in order?
Before when it spooled up it would be smooth with good acceleration. Now it cuts out and the rpms change with the up and down shifting.
Could the alternator be worn enough to cause this electrical noise problem? maybe a alternator rebuild would be in order?
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I used the fix on SunCoastconverters.com this morning and it seems to have fixed my problem. The cheapest fix out there and it only took about 30 minutes.
I guess time will tell for sure. Thanks for everyones input.
Tom
I guess time will tell for sure. Thanks for everyones input.
Tom
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Regards,
Gene
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I take no credit, I found it on this site. I guess it makes sure that apps has a good ground. It seems to work for mine.
This is a great site, if you look long enough you can find the answer to almost anything.
The hardest part is getting the black plastic cover off. The plastic screw in from is difficult to get to.
1. Disconnect both batteries.
2. Locate the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) on drivers side front of engine.
3. Remove plastic cover for easier access to the 6 pin connector.
4. Locate the ground (Black with Yellow tracer) wire pin # 4.
5. Cut this wire and splice a wire to the battery ground, then run another wire back from the battery to the
other end of the wire you cut at pin# 4. Do not wire tie this to the alternator harness below the TPS!
6. Reconnect batteries.
7. Now you need to re-learn the TPS, Turn the key to the run position, do not crank. Next depress
the accelerator pedal to the floor slowly and release, turn key off. You may start the engine.
Supplies needed, approximately. 5’ wire, 2 eyelets for battery ground and a butt splice connector.
Instructions
www.suncoastconverters.com
800.868.0053 • 850.864.2361 • Fax: 850.864.0943 • 819 Navy St. • Fort Walton Beach, FL 32547
Good Luck
Tom
This is a great site, if you look long enough you can find the answer to almost anything.
The hardest part is getting the black plastic cover off. The plastic screw in from is difficult to get to.
1. Disconnect both batteries.
2. Locate the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) on drivers side front of engine.
3. Remove plastic cover for easier access to the 6 pin connector.
4. Locate the ground (Black with Yellow tracer) wire pin # 4.
5. Cut this wire and splice a wire to the battery ground, then run another wire back from the battery to the
other end of the wire you cut at pin# 4. Do not wire tie this to the alternator harness below the TPS!
6. Reconnect batteries.
7. Now you need to re-learn the TPS, Turn the key to the run position, do not crank. Next depress
the accelerator pedal to the floor slowly and release, turn key off. You may start the engine.
Supplies needed, approximately. 5’ wire, 2 eyelets for battery ground and a butt splice connector.
Instructions
www.suncoastconverters.com
800.868.0053 • 850.864.2361 • Fax: 850.864.0943 • 819 Navy St. • Fort Walton Beach, FL 32547
Good Luck
Tom
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