1997 cummins fuel shut off selenoid
07-26-2005, 09:51 AM
#2
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http://www.piersdiesel.com/ has them as well as www.fostertruck.com
but are you sure you really need one?
The solenoid is the most needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, the dealer loves to use them as a throw parts at a problem solution.
About the only time they fail is when the starter contacts fail and the solenoid is visibly burned up or the owner takes them apart and loses pieces.
The problem is almost always a bad relay or a corroded blue wire from the battery.
but are you sure you really need one?
The solenoid is the most needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, the dealer loves to use them as a throw parts at a problem solution.
About the only time they fail is when the starter contacts fail and the solenoid is visibly burned up or the owner takes them apart and loses pieces.
The problem is almost always a bad relay or a corroded blue wire from the battery.
07-26-2005, 05:54 PM
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I am glad you asked. I thought maybe I needed one.
Here is what happens. It sometimes cranks for some time and then starts or sometimes it doesnt start till I go out while leaving the key on and lift up on the solenoid till it clicks in place. I then go back in and recrank it and it starts immediately. I figured it was the solenoid.
What do you suggest? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Matador
Here is what happens. It sometimes cranks for some time and then starts or sometimes it doesnt start till I go out while leaving the key on and lift up on the solenoid till it clicks in place. I then go back in and recrank it and it starts immediately. I figured it was the solenoid.
What do you suggest? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Matador
07-26-2005, 06:46 PM
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I will check that boot a little more closely Dshiftff.
I dont remember a blue wire Infidel. Is it supposed to run all the way to the battery as blue. From the solenoid it runs into and harness of some sorts. I havent taken apart that yet.
thanks,
Matador
I dont remember a blue wire Infidel. Is it supposed to run all the way to the battery as blue. From the solenoid it runs into and harness of some sorts. I havent taken apart that yet.
thanks,
Matador
07-26-2005, 06:48 PM
#6
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With your symptoms the first place I'd start is with the blue wire (actually a fusible link) coming off the driver's side battery, it's notorious for corroding. Most folks are able to cut just a little bit off and crimp on a new connector. Also check that the small wires coming off your starter connections are clean and not corroded.
If that doesn't get it replace the relay.
Much info on the shutoff and starter and how they work together can be found here
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
If that doesn't get it replace the relay.
Much info on the shutoff and starter and how they work together can be found here
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
07-26-2005, 06:58 PM
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Many thanks Infidel! I printed out the wiring diagram from a link on the page you posted. Forgive my ignorance; are you saying the blue wire itself is a fusible link? If so is it designed to burn apart in the event of a problem? From the way you worded it, I would assume so.
Thank you,
Matador
Thank you,
Matador
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07-26-2005, 09:48 PM
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I think I may have found the problem. The small piece that goes into the bottom of the rubber and extends down to and goes onto the fuel shutoff arm I think had slipped out of the piece inside the fuel shutoff selenoid.
I wish I knew the proper names of the pieces I am talking about so you guys could understand better.
Matador
I wish I knew the proper names of the pieces I am talking about so you guys could understand better.
Matador
07-27-2005, 09:50 AM
#9
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It sounds like your boot is bad if it slipped apart. The boot is the only thing holding the solenoid together if it's removed from the engine.
That's how people lose parts.
That's how people lose parts.
07-27-2005, 01:29 PM
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I took the fuel shutoff selenoid off last night and from what I read you say today I may have messed things up. This is what I did last night.
I took and made it so the bottom metel piece that hooks onto the shutoff arm cannot snap out of the metel tube. It looked like it was supposed to snap into the plunger and be held in place by a small snap ring inside the plunger. It looked like these two metel pieces comes apart so easy is because the little metel snap ring and what snapped into it (the bottom metel piece that hooks onto the arm )had become so worn it would barely stay snapped into it. With not very much pulling pressure it would come right apart.
If the selenoid snaps upward and the small metel piece that hooks onto the arm dont come with it, it wont work was my reasoning and I still have to think this is so.
I took the part that hooks onto the shutoff arm and flattened the part where it snaps into the plunger so now there is no way in heck once I snapped it together is it going to come apart.
The truck seems to start great. I havent taken it out on the road yet but I thought I had solved the problem. I was pretty sure the two pieces were coming apart when the solenoid activated leaving the bottom piece that hooks on the the arm where it was at and not lifting it up.
Ok, what say the experts now.
Thanks,
Matador
I took and made it so the bottom metel piece that hooks onto the shutoff arm cannot snap out of the metel tube. It looked like it was supposed to snap into the plunger and be held in place by a small snap ring inside the plunger. It looked like these two metel pieces comes apart so easy is because the little metel snap ring and what snapped into it (the bottom metel piece that hooks onto the arm )had become so worn it would barely stay snapped into it. With not very much pulling pressure it would come right apart.
If the selenoid snaps upward and the small metel piece that hooks onto the arm dont come with it, it wont work was my reasoning and I still have to think this is so.
I took the part that hooks onto the shutoff arm and flattened the part where it snaps into the plunger so now there is no way in heck once I snapped it together is it going to come apart.
The truck seems to start great. I havent taken it out on the road yet but I thought I had solved the problem. I was pretty sure the two pieces were coming apart when the solenoid activated leaving the bottom piece that hooks on the the arm where it was at and not lifting it up.
Ok, what say the experts now.
Thanks,
Matador
07-28-2005, 08:44 AM
#15
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matador,
If I understand you correctly, you fixed the problem and did not hurt anything at all.
Mine was the same way as yours - the snap ring wore the bore into which it was pressed, and the rod would not stay in. The boot held it all together enough to let the solenoid pull the lever up enough to let the engine start, but not all the way, so the truck had no power.
I removed the soleoind entirely and subsituted a push-pull cable, as someone on this board suggested (this was all several years ago). The push-pull cable is like on a tractor or other diesel equipment - pull it and you shut off the fuel, the engine dies. Push it in and the fuel it turned on, you can start and tun the truck.
Since you fixed the linkage so it does not fall apart, I think you fixed the problem and do not need to do anything else.
Regards,
Andrew
If I understand you correctly, you fixed the problem and did not hurt anything at all.
Mine was the same way as yours - the snap ring wore the bore into which it was pressed, and the rod would not stay in. The boot held it all together enough to let the solenoid pull the lever up enough to let the engine start, but not all the way, so the truck had no power.
I removed the soleoind entirely and subsituted a push-pull cable, as someone on this board suggested (this was all several years ago). The push-pull cable is like on a tractor or other diesel equipment - pull it and you shut off the fuel, the engine dies. Push it in and the fuel it turned on, you can start and tun the truck.
Since you fixed the linkage so it does not fall apart, I think you fixed the problem and do not need to do anything else.
Regards,
Andrew