1996 2500 Fuel gauge does not work IDEAS ANYONE???
02-17-2010, 10:59 PM
#1
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1996 2500 Fuel gauge does not work IDEAS ANYONE???
I just bought this truck yesterday,a 1996 ext.cab 2500 diesel....
the fuel gauge doesn't work. Full tank of fuel....no work, drove 150 miles...still no work at all.
Before I dig, I thought I would begin here and ask you guys if there is a "USUAL" problem (if any) to look for.
Thanks.................
GCSS
[roll
the fuel gauge doesn't work. Full tank of fuel....no work, drove 150 miles...still no work at all.
Before I dig, I thought I would begin here and ask you guys if there is a "USUAL" problem (if any) to look for.
Thanks.................
GCSS
[roll
02-18-2010, 07:55 AM
#4
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I just bought this truck yesterday,a 1996 ext.cab 2500 diesel....
the fuel gauge doesn't work. Full tank of fuel....no work, drove 150 miles...still no work at all.
Before I dig, I thought I would begin here and ask you guys if there is a "USUAL" problem (if any) to look for.
Thanks.................
GCSS[roll
the fuel gauge doesn't work. Full tank of fuel....no work, drove 150 miles...still no work at all.
Before I dig, I thought I would begin here and ask you guys if there is a "USUAL" problem (if any) to look for.
Thanks.................
GCSS
[rollPart number is 4797738, mid fourties at most internet parts dealers, I use Moparpartsamerica.com
art Number: 4797738 List Price Core Price Your Price
Electrical - Chassis electrical - Senders - Fuel gauge sending unit FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT, All Models, Diesel Engine 1997
$66.85 $0.00 $44.51
Good luck!
02-18-2010, 08:23 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys...
Is there a way to determine it by testing /probing the wires FIRST?
I like to diagnose it if possible
Is there a way to determine it by testing /probing the wires FIRST?
I like to diagnose it if possible
As the other have said, fuel level sender, most will strike.
Part number is 4797738, mid fourties at most internet parts dealers, I use Moparpartsamerica.com
art Number: 4797738 List Price Core Price Your Price
Electrical - Chassis electrical - Senders - Fuel gauge sending unit FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT, All Models, Diesel Engine 1997
$66.85 $0.00 $44.51
Good luck!
Part number is 4797738, mid fourties at most internet parts dealers, I use Moparpartsamerica.com
art Number: 4797738 List Price Core Price Your Price
Electrical - Chassis electrical - Senders - Fuel gauge sending unit FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT, All Models, Diesel Engine 1997
$66.85 $0.00 $44.51
Good luck!
02-18-2010, 09:40 AM
#6
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02-18-2010, 11:06 AM
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If the float is ok (unlike the old one in the above picture) you can rebuild your existing one with some minor work. Had to replace mine every 2 years- got tired of it. Several suggested methods on how on various sights... basics, replace the pivot with a screw and washers because the plastic wears away and allows the arm to rock on the pivot creating a poor contact/no contact situation on the rheostat contacts this no reading or weird readings.
Easy rebuild, not so easy change- lift the bed or drop the tank. Tank drop is much easier IMHO - done it several times now.
Easy rebuild, not so easy change- lift the bed or drop the tank. Tank drop is much easier IMHO - done it several times now.
Last edited by justme-; 02-18-2010 at 11:07 AM. Reason: typo
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02-18-2010, 01:40 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Well looks like I may do the tank drop.....I will try to run it low so it isn't too heavy.
Interesting.... I ran the VIN#s on the truck and it was puchased new by.....CUMMINS!....
That explains the stuff on it....jake brake (with a cummins P/N,and an AFR exhaust along with a Cummins cold air intake....don't know what else they did.....
Interesting.... I ran the VIN#s on the truck and it was puchased new by.....CUMMINS!....
That explains the stuff on it....jake brake (with a cummins P/N,and an AFR exhaust along with a Cummins cold air intake....don't know what else they did.....
If the float is ok (unlike the old one in the above picture) you can rebuild your existing one with some minor work. Had to replace mine every 2 years- got tired of it. Several suggested methods on how on various sights... basics, replace the pivot with a screw and washers because the plastic wears away and allows the arm to rock on the pivot creating a poor contact/no contact situation on the rheostat contacts this no reading or weird readings.
Easy rebuild, not so easy change- lift the bed or drop the tank. Tank drop is much easier IMHO - done it several times now.
Easy rebuild, not so easy change- lift the bed or drop the tank. Tank drop is much easier IMHO - done it several times now.
02-18-2010, 03:49 PM
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take the wire off the sending unit on the tank top and rig test wire directly to ground, (from the wire running to the sending unit). If the gauge goes right to full with the ignition on, it is your sender most likely as the rest of the system is working, if not, look further before dropping the tank. I'd like to be sure before dropping the tank and this test will give piece of mind that it is the sender. All that being said these trucks are notorious for bad senders.
02-18-2010, 06:38 PM
#10
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these trucks are notorious for bad senders.
Dodge finally figured it out in 2002 and changed the material.
Replacements are made with the new material.
Not worth it in my opinion trying to repair a pre '02 sender.
02-18-2010, 07:09 PM
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take the wire off the sending unit on the tank top and rig test wire directly to ground, (from the wire running to the sending unit). If the gauge goes right to full with the ignition on, it is your sender most likely as the rest of the system is working, if not, look further before dropping the tank. I'd like to be sure before dropping the tank and this test will give piece of mind that it is the sender. All that being said these trucks are notorious for bad senders.
and like was mensioned if the float is deteriorated at all. change it. or it will get saturated with fuel and it doesn't float at all anymore.
02-18-2010, 08:03 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
Thanks a bunch guys!
I'll check it tomorrow and keep y'all posted!
Dave
02-19-2010, 05:34 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
take the wire off the sending unit on the tank top and rig test wire directly to ground, (from the wire running to the sending unit). If the gauge goes right to full with the ignition on, it is your sender most likely as the rest of the system is working, if not, look further before dropping the tank. I'd like to be sure before dropping the tank and this test will give piece of mind that it is the sender. All that being said these trucks are notorious for bad senders.
sender is bad!
Thanks guys!
02-20-2010, 08:58 PM
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That's because the circuit board that the windings are wrapped around wasn't compatible with diesel fuel and somewhat melted.
Dodge finally figured it out in 2002 and changed the material.
Replacements are made with the new material.
Not worth it in my opinion trying to repair a pre '02 sender.
Dodge finally figured it out in 2002 and changed the material.
Replacements are made with the new material.
Not worth it in my opinion trying to repair a pre '02 sender.
Remember most but not all trucks have an anti syphon ball valve in the fill tube. I used a chemical fluid pump but any old diesel capable electric fuel pump can be used to drain the tank. Last time I had to drop mine I had just filled it the day before the problem (break line burst behind the tank). Pull the lines off the tank and use the supply fitting to hook to the pump for draining.
I used a section of regular fuel line for the hose on both sides of the pump- run isopropal alcohol through the fuel line after finishing to clean or toss it. Don't really understand the chemestry but the alcohol "washed" out the diesel and has kept the non diesel rated line from rotting.
02-21-2010, 12:00 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
I'm far from an expert, but I've never heard of the circuit material on the board degrading- every failure I've ever read, heard of, or seen has been due to the plastic pivot on the arm.
Remember most but not all trucks have an anti syphon ball valve in the fill tube. I used a chemical fluid pump but any old diesel capable electric fuel pump can be used to drain the tank. Last time I had to drop mine I had just filled it the day before the problem (break line burst behind the tank). Pull the lines off the tank and use the supply fitting to hook to the pump for draining.
I used a section of regular fuel line for the hose on both sides of the pump- run isopropal alcohol through the fuel line after finishing to clean or toss it. Don't really understand the chemestry but the alcohol "washed" out the diesel and has kept the non diesel rated line from rotting.
Remember most but not all trucks have an anti syphon ball valve in the fill tube. I used a chemical fluid pump but any old diesel capable electric fuel pump can be used to drain the tank. Last time I had to drop mine I had just filled it the day before the problem (break line burst behind the tank). Pull the lines off the tank and use the supply fitting to hook to the pump for draining.
I used a section of regular fuel line for the hose on both sides of the pump- run isopropal alcohol through the fuel line after finishing to clean or toss it. Don't really understand the chemestry but the alcohol "washed" out the diesel and has kept the non diesel rated line from rotting.
I have been rapping on the tank and kinda watching the trip-odometer vs fuel mileage and I am leaning towards dropping the tank. I have not ruled out unbolting the box and just tilting it up enough to allow clearance. I'll think on it a bit.