1996 12V Lift Pump Replacement.
08-06-2006, 12:13 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
1996 12V Lift Pump Replacement.
Well,
finally i got around to changin the LP on my truck. I had done lots of research and reading up on it and i came to the conclusion THIS THING IS A ROYAL PITA!!!! I had read a couple of ways to get thru to it, the top, the bottom BUT i found a sideway as well to do so, which actually turned out to be the easiest way to do so.. In either case here is a well written procedure just for you guys debating to do this..
The first thing that I did was of coarse gather my tools and what not. I also closed the needle valve to my FP gauge and I looked at the Pump and decided to go thru the bottom of it. I unplugged my batteries and then dropped the starter while I was at it. Upon dropping the starter you have a GREAT view of the pump and i thought this would be easy.
Once you see the pump from the bottom you will see that there is a return hose to the actual prefilter fuel heater housing assembly, That hose in my particular case could be undone just by undoing the hose clamp that came with it and popping out the hose with the flathead screwdriver that I used to do the clamps with. No big issue.. that same elbow that u removed the hose from needs to be saved, due to the LP not coming with a new one u must reuse it.
The next hose is a doozie. There is a 14 mm steel line that connects to the top of the IP at a weird angle. Now there are two threadings, one for the bronze colored fitting that connects to the new pump, and the 14mm fitting that connects the steel line to the top of the Lift Pump. This one was a real doozie to get thru from the bottom and from the top. So what i did was remove the left front tire, the plastic wheel cover, the shocks and shock tower (my truck has dual shocks) and low and behold, a DIRECT VIEW of the LP in a much easier to work environment..
(One might have to bend the metal slightly if you have larger arms than I do tho) Upon removal of those item the line was not so easy to undo either, so i WD 40'd it and once it penetrated it broke loose no issues.
Next from the side of the truck one will see there are 2 10 mm screws holding the pump to the truck block. Both of them were removed and i expected the pump to spring out, well it didnt spring out at all, and the little pushrod came out easily as well. I saw almost no wear on it whatsoever so i decided not to reuse it. Be aware tho that naturally you will have diesel fuel that falls but it isnt alot.
With the old pump out and the new one in hand I took the pump to a vice to remove the square fitting for the hose to the fuel heater housing and used some permatex to seal the connections. Now the pump is ready to be put back...
Next, from the side of the truck, we removed the gasket and cleaned the area where the pump was to go back at. After several tries of gettin it by myself i decided to call my father to help me out with this thing. It is a PITA to get back on the truck because you have to get the gasket on, and put the screws through the Pump and the Fuel heater housing and alld all back to the block at a super weird angle, and to make it worse, this new pump had some spring to it, which made it hard to do so. To aid in this dillema we used some permatex to stick the gasket to the block put one screw thru the Pump and housing, my dad was at the side of the truck and I was at the bottom holding it to make sure it went in straight. Sure enough after a couple of minutes of teetering with it, we got it on and got the screw started.
Next (this step will save you some headache) go ahead and start and hold the second screw in about the same depth as the first one went in. DO NOT screw in the pump all the way. Put back that steel 14 mm line soon as you can get it aligned. If you screw in the pump all the way you will NEVER get it to align. Once you get it aligned up and put in place, go ahead and get the pump screwed in back all the way, then connect the return hose and you are good to go.
Finally just prime the pump till it gets hard to prime, and reassemble the shocks, tower and wheel assembly. ALso reconnect the starter and batteries and make sure all your connections are clean and good to go. I also had dads truck and jumper cables handy as well as a 3/4 wrench to crack injector lines if need be
Finally you can crank the truck. I expected mine to be hard to crank, suprisingly it started right up, just ran rough for a few seconds and I was good to go.... once it was set I opened my fuel pressure needle valve to see my readings...
To conclude this job took me about 4 hours BUT i was just takin my time, (too hott down here in Laredo anyways) and I had company come over and what not. Had i set my mind to it and done it right away it mighta taken me half of that time frame. But this is just to get it done.. Hope it helps u guys out!
Have a good one!
Rick
finally i got around to changin the LP on my truck. I had done lots of research and reading up on it and i came to the conclusion THIS THING IS A ROYAL PITA!!!! I had read a couple of ways to get thru to it, the top, the bottom BUT i found a sideway as well to do so, which actually turned out to be the easiest way to do so.. In either case here is a well written procedure just for you guys debating to do this..
The first thing that I did was of coarse gather my tools and what not. I also closed the needle valve to my FP gauge and I looked at the Pump and decided to go thru the bottom of it. I unplugged my batteries and then dropped the starter while I was at it. Upon dropping the starter you have a GREAT view of the pump and i thought this would be easy.
Once you see the pump from the bottom you will see that there is a return hose to the actual prefilter fuel heater housing assembly, That hose in my particular case could be undone just by undoing the hose clamp that came with it and popping out the hose with the flathead screwdriver that I used to do the clamps with. No big issue.. that same elbow that u removed the hose from needs to be saved, due to the LP not coming with a new one u must reuse it.
The next hose is a doozie. There is a 14 mm steel line that connects to the top of the IP at a weird angle. Now there are two threadings, one for the bronze colored fitting that connects to the new pump, and the 14mm fitting that connects the steel line to the top of the Lift Pump. This one was a real doozie to get thru from the bottom and from the top. So what i did was remove the left front tire, the plastic wheel cover, the shocks and shock tower (my truck has dual shocks) and low and behold, a DIRECT VIEW of the LP in a much easier to work environment..
(One might have to bend the metal slightly if you have larger arms than I do tho) Upon removal of those item the line was not so easy to undo either, so i WD 40'd it and once it penetrated it broke loose no issues.Next from the side of the truck one will see there are 2 10 mm screws holding the pump to the truck block. Both of them were removed and i expected the pump to spring out, well it didnt spring out at all, and the little pushrod came out easily as well. I saw almost no wear on it whatsoever so i decided not to reuse it. Be aware tho that naturally you will have diesel fuel that falls but it isnt alot.
With the old pump out and the new one in hand I took the pump to a vice to remove the square fitting for the hose to the fuel heater housing and used some permatex to seal the connections. Now the pump is ready to be put back...
Next, from the side of the truck, we removed the gasket and cleaned the area where the pump was to go back at. After several tries of gettin it by myself i decided to call my father to help me out with this thing. It is a PITA to get back on the truck because you have to get the gasket on, and put the screws through the Pump and the Fuel heater housing and alld all back to the block at a super weird angle, and to make it worse, this new pump had some spring to it, which made it hard to do so. To aid in this dillema we used some permatex to stick the gasket to the block put one screw thru the Pump and housing, my dad was at the side of the truck and I was at the bottom holding it to make sure it went in straight. Sure enough after a couple of minutes of teetering with it, we got it on and got the screw started.
Next (this step will save you some headache) go ahead and start and hold the second screw in about the same depth as the first one went in. DO NOT screw in the pump all the way. Put back that steel 14 mm line soon as you can get it aligned. If you screw in the pump all the way you will NEVER get it to align. Once you get it aligned up and put in place, go ahead and get the pump screwed in back all the way, then connect the return hose and you are good to go.
Finally just prime the pump till it gets hard to prime, and reassemble the shocks, tower and wheel assembly. ALso reconnect the starter and batteries and make sure all your connections are clean and good to go. I also had dads truck and jumper cables handy as well as a 3/4 wrench to crack injector lines if need be
Finally you can crank the truck. I expected mine to be hard to crank, suprisingly it started right up, just ran rough for a few seconds and I was good to go....
once it was set I opened my fuel pressure needle valve to see my readings...To conclude this job took me about 4 hours BUT i was just takin my time, (too hott down here in Laredo anyways) and I had company come over and what not. Had i set my mind to it and done it right away it mighta taken me half of that time frame. But this is just to get it done.. Hope it helps u guys out!
Have a good one!
Rick
08-06-2006, 06:03 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bmoeller
It isn't all that bad.
I agree
next time i do it, i know how to do it and right. Lining it up is the only problem...
Rick
08-07-2006, 10:25 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by wmonroe
What were your new fuel pressure readings?
Will
Will
I have a thread started on it
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=111778
Rick
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