12V injector install question
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12V injector install question
I'm about to install the new 330 injectors in my '98 12V. What I need to know is after you pull the old injector, how do you clean the injector pocket before installing the new injector into it? It's probably pretty grungy in there. I know that the new injector has a copper washer on the end that has to seat/seal against the head. I need to make sure the mating surface is clean. How do I accomplish this without getting crap into the cumbustion chamber?
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks,
Rich
#2
i guess you could wipe it pretty good with a clean rag.
as far as doing it without getting anything into the chamber i dunno if ya can.
When i put in my 370's i didnt really clean up the mating surface and they worked perfectly fine
as far as doing it without getting anything into the chamber i dunno if ya can.
When i put in my 370's i didnt really clean up the mating surface and they worked perfectly fine
#3
I would get a vacuum cleaner and have the end of the hose right by the injector as you're pulling it out. Then, while keeping the hose right there, wipe around with a rag. I would also spray some brake parts cleaner liberally around the old injector before you pull it out, and give it time to dry.
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Rich:
They do make a wire bristle brush for cleaning injector sockets. Not sure how to come up with one quick though. I've used several Q-tips with some solvent and a good light source and a mirror to look into #5 & 6. I wouldn't use a rag as you would knock as much crud down into the hole as you would get out. The vacuum would help keep things clean too.
You should use some anti-seize on the hold-down threads and the injector body. I also put a small dab of the anti-seize under the copper washer to keep it in place when trying to tip the injector into the hole. When you get stuck trying to get the old injectors out you can back the hold down nut all of the way out and then put another hold down nut on top then use a lug nut as a puller to ease the injector out. The lug nut is the same threads as the top of the injector If they haven't been changed in a while then plan on a few sticking. This works slicker than a puller and won't cost a dime! Just don't forget to put the lug nut back on.
Paul
They do make a wire bristle brush for cleaning injector sockets. Not sure how to come up with one quick though. I've used several Q-tips with some solvent and a good light source and a mirror to look into #5 & 6. I wouldn't use a rag as you would knock as much crud down into the hole as you would get out. The vacuum would help keep things clean too.
You should use some anti-seize on the hold-down threads and the injector body. I also put a small dab of the anti-seize under the copper washer to keep it in place when trying to tip the injector into the hole. When you get stuck trying to get the old injectors out you can back the hold down nut all of the way out and then put another hold down nut on top then use a lug nut as a puller to ease the injector out. The lug nut is the same threads as the top of the injector If they haven't been changed in a while then plan on a few sticking. This works slicker than a puller and won't cost a dime! Just don't forget to put the lug nut back on.
Paul
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OK, Got the injectors installed. Also installed a #8 plate, full forward, the GSK washer mod, new fuel filter, and cleaned the pre-filter, installed the BHAF, and adjusted the valves.
When I started it, the idle was low, so I fixed that.
It runs like a totally different truck. The engine even sounds different. It is very responsive now. When you step on the go pedal, you'd better be ready to go.
By the factory tach it raps to a bit over 3K before it defuels.
The only down side I've found so far is it does let out some smoke when you put your foot in it. I backed the star wheel off (tightened) a couple of turns and that seemed to tone the smoke down a bit. I'm not sure exactly what the star wheel does, or how far is safe to tighten it. The truck has dual exhaust, so it sprays a nice smoke cloud on the cars behind me. I'm not too crazy about that. I'll work on it a bit more. Maybe slide the #8 plate back towards the middle? Time to experiment I guess...
Long winded answer to your question there. The short version is, So far I like the 330's. Considerably more power, but I'm sure that that's not all from the injectors. The motor is definately getting more fuel...
Rich
When I started it, the idle was low, so I fixed that.
It runs like a totally different truck. The engine even sounds different. It is very responsive now. When you step on the go pedal, you'd better be ready to go.
By the factory tach it raps to a bit over 3K before it defuels.
The only down side I've found so far is it does let out some smoke when you put your foot in it. I backed the star wheel off (tightened) a couple of turns and that seemed to tone the smoke down a bit. I'm not sure exactly what the star wheel does, or how far is safe to tighten it. The truck has dual exhaust, so it sprays a nice smoke cloud on the cars behind me. I'm not too crazy about that. I'll work on it a bit more. Maybe slide the #8 plate back towards the middle? Time to experiment I guess...
Long winded answer to your question there. The short version is, So far I like the 330's. Considerably more power, but I'm sure that that's not all from the injectors. The motor is definately getting more fuel...
Rich
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#8
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Originally Posted by RamRodder
OK, Got the injectors installed. Also installed a #8 plate, full forward, the GSK washer mod, new fuel filter, and cleaned the pre-filter, installed the BHAF, and adjusted the valves.
When I started it, the idle was low, so I fixed that.
It runs like a totally different truck. The engine even sounds different. It is very responsive now. When you step on the go pedal, you'd better be ready to go.
By the factory tach it raps to a bit over 3K before it defuels.
The only down side I've found so far is it does let out some smoke when you put your foot in it. I backed the star wheel off (tightened) a couple of turns and that seemed to tone the smoke down a bit. I'm not sure exactly what the star wheel does, or how far is safe to tighten it. The truck has dual exhaust, so it sprays a nice smoke cloud on the cars behind me. I'm not too crazy about that. I'll work on it a bit more. Maybe slide the #8 plate back towards the middle? Time to experiment I guess...
Long winded answer to your question there. The short version is, So far I like the 330's. Considerably more power, but I'm sure that that's not all from the injectors. The motor is definately getting more fuel...
Rich
When I started it, the idle was low, so I fixed that.
It runs like a totally different truck. The engine even sounds different. It is very responsive now. When you step on the go pedal, you'd better be ready to go.
By the factory tach it raps to a bit over 3K before it defuels.
The only down side I've found so far is it does let out some smoke when you put your foot in it. I backed the star wheel off (tightened) a couple of turns and that seemed to tone the smoke down a bit. I'm not sure exactly what the star wheel does, or how far is safe to tighten it. The truck has dual exhaust, so it sprays a nice smoke cloud on the cars behind me. I'm not too crazy about that. I'll work on it a bit more. Maybe slide the #8 plate back towards the middle? Time to experiment I guess...
Long winded answer to your question there. The short version is, So far I like the 330's. Considerably more power, but I'm sure that that's not all from the injectors. The motor is definately getting more fuel...
Rich
the fine adjustment of your smoke or low end fuel control. I have ran mine as much as 1/4 of the way towards the engine. All this does is limit when the fuel comes on early enough per say. You have the right idea, play with plate positioning as well as starwheel and AFC positioning. You did notice when u put that plate that you can slide the entire AFC housing forward towards the front of the truck or back towards the cab, that will also make a HUGE difference in your smoke levels...
Rick
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