DRM

At least that's what the preliminary diagnosis is from a brief look by the local off road shop

Took it to them to replace a P/S line, and we noticed coolant leak on the pass. side of the engine, around the block/head area.

Any clue if this sounds about right on the diagnosis?


Assuming it is - what should I look at addressing while it's apart? Definately gonna be the time to get the KDP, just wondering what else.

Any clue what this is gonna cost me? I think I am gonna cry...

John Faughn

Are you going to add much more H.P. if so then it depends on how much , you could go with studs[12mm or 14mm] instead of the stock bolts , also fire ring the heads for higher [40-50++] boost, then port & polish the heads for better flow , if compition then maybe change the valves,or order new head that is have it your way , but if your goin to stay close to stock then pressure test and or magnaflux heads for cracks , if they check out then surface for straight-flat sealing new head gasget , you may want a machine shop to look at valves and guides at min. have them lapped , thats just short of a valve job , an experanced shop can judge if lapping will be a good opption ,if it does not need a complete valve job, this is also a good time to replace valve guide seals if you do not do everything els. And don't forget 60lbs springs if you might want add exhaust brake.

gunracer1

well mine just went at 264k but 20 degrees timing and i added a lot more fuel had something to do with it. mine is leaking at about the same spot as yours, passenger side between the head and block, between the 2nd and 3rd ex. port. i would just suggest you pull it and replace it with a 10 over marine headgasket. it is really not that big a deal. i cant find the marine head gasket#s. i will keep looking. a new set of bolts is cheap insurance, get them from cummins.

DRM

Thanks gunracer - sounds like the *exact* same spot! Oil and coolant look ok so far, so that's good.

No plans to get too crazy with the truck in the future, just enough to tow like I want. But I can already hit 36 psi boost, and I bet I could push 40 without too much trouble.

Problem is - the tranny is about out as well, so if I do this myself I can save some $$$ and dump the cash on a tranny upgrade.... Hmmm...

Fueling around

Cost will depend on what you need PLUS what you want.

Besides the headgasket, I needed a few things: exhaust valve guides, valve job, head plane, and machine work for the new style stem seals.
I wanted studs, o-rings, and 60 lb valve springs.

Mike talked me out of o-rings as my hp levels are pretty modest. When heading up the high performance road, he prefers to use a fresh aftermarket head and give it the full treatment of port, polish & o-ring.


Find a shop that can do everything in house. It saves money and time.

DRM

I am actually considering just tackling this myself. I could definately save some $$$ on the labor involved, about $800 worth to be exact.