Big Blue24

Ok, my bud found a forklift for his construction projects. It weighs 22,000 pounds plus a suitable trailer. What do we need to do to his bone stock 96' 2500 Long Bed 12 valve Auto.

I was thinking gauges, #10 plate, Block Wastegate, Valve Body, Triple Disk, Exhaust Brake??

What are your thoughts?

displacedtexan

Get a dually. To much weight for a 250o to tow daily IMHO

Your mods plus a GSK and timing would take care of the power end of things I would think though.

Big Blue24

It would be towed once or twice a month and left at the job till the next house is ready to frame. Would air bags help out much, or an add a leaf? It is the heavier duty 3/4 ton.

cumminsdriver635

Gauges, Valve body, triple disc converter, #0 plate, 3k GSK, 17* timing. That right there will give you a great towing setup without having to worry much about EGT's. That is a lot of weight for a 3/4 ton, but those are the mods i would do to handle it power wise.

Eric

displacedtexan

If he won't be towing it often/far he would be fine with the 2500, bags would be nice. I read it the first time and pictured him moving it almost daily.

I personally wouldn't want a 0 for that kind of weight.

cumminsdriver635

I haul plenty with my #0 with no problems at all. I can let out of it a little if the pyro starts to climb rather than be running with less power all the time. I never had an EGT problem at all hauling with the 181 DV's and the 0 plate. 1300* was pushing it as hard as it would go. These 191's will bury the pyro, but it is easily just as driveable if you know how to control your foot. i dont run around wide open with a load anyways. Actually I usually run valet mode when im loaded.

Eric

displacedtexan

My fear is a personal dislike of things that just anyone couldn't drive. I worry that someone else would have to drive my truck (I have no idea why) and wouldn't watch temps and such...

Plus plates affect the bigger pumps a lot more, not saying it wouldn't work great, just that I wouldn't want one.

Big Blue24

Wouldn't a 10 be great, 100 even more power, but a zero, isn't that like running no plate? Or am i confused? 17* timing and the head will still stay put? I am a 24 valver so this stuff is new to me.

displacedtexan

0 is the most aggressive plate you can get. The 100 has defueling at the bottom, the 10 has a 100 plate curve at the bottom, and some more defueling at the top end.

The farther the arm can travel, the more fuel.

cumminsdriver635

I understand where you are coming from. My uncles have had to drive my truck before, but usually no one drives it but me. I have the Valet switch, which is good if someone else drive it though

Eric

displacedtexan

17* is about the max I would feel comfortable with on a DD. But the higher you go the more bottom end you loose. I love mine at 16.5*

displacedtexan

I want a valet before any other mods for that very reason.

Big Blue24

I don't want to push timing too far but mileage when empty is a bonus, so where is timing set at stock anyway? Sounds like somewhere in the 16* range is ideal for a daily driver.

Muddin_dude06

I would not go above 15* of timing IMHO if towing that heavy of weight. And if it was me I would just do a #10 plate, 15* timing and address the transmission. It isn't hard to pull that much weight, stopping it is the bigger concern. I loved the way my truck pullied with a #100 and stock timing, getting up to speed was much easie than now... Plus you break things when you tow heavy at higher HP...

Big Blue24

So is stock timing around 14* then?