03 Ram 2500 4x4 report at 180,000 miles
08-31-2009, 07:03 AM
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03 Ram 2500 CTD, 6spd, 4x4: Report at 180,000 miles
First things first:
- 2003 Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins HO (305/555), 4x4, 6-spd, Reg-Cab, Long-Box, 3.73.
Few things I learned for Forum knowledge:
- Change oil and filter regularly 7500mile schedule; I use Shell Rotella T (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- Change fuel filter just as regularly (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- change air filter regularly. I do mine twice a year - March after the roads are clean from the salt, November before winter starts. It's the same time I replace my windshield wiper blades.
- change transmission, transfer case, and front and rear diff oil every 50k miles or after getting them wet (who cares what the book says)
- When out of warranty replace factory sealed U-joints with greasable units and grease regularly (factory one spent around 50k miles) - remember the outer tie rod ball joints are factory greaseable!!!
- at 50,000 miles I installed the MBRP single 4" exhaust. Also removed the turbo silencer ring and hogged out the factory air intake wind vane. Picked up 2-4 mpg (if I kept my foot out of it and kept the sustained highway rpms under 2000 or 70mph)
- Monitor the front hubs, one side started going bad with a squeak at 90k miles, the other at 92k miles (anticipating to do them again soon).
- 100,000 miles, flush radiator, replace thermostats.
- steering knuckle ball joints: mine went (both sides) and was found at state inspection at 120,000 miles (garage said mine lasted longer than most).
- Keep an eye on the electro-mechanical fan after nearing 150,000 miles
- Keep the other eye on the steering gearbox and pump around the same.
- keep the third eye on the water pump
- replace fan belt 175,000 miles (mine still looked good so I kept it in the cab).
- my factory clutch went at 180,000 miles. Replaced clutch, pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearing; removed glaze from flywheel (didnt cut as I have no chatter). Also replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder (couldnt justify doing one without the other). FYI: This initially cloaked itself as a synchronizer (or shifter) issue as the clutch held strong and worked fine; but then in about 5000 miles really disclosed itself as a clutch/input shaft spin-down problem. Either it was the pilot bearing, slight warp to the clutch disc/ pressure plate, the master/slave cylinder wearing, or the build up of goop on the input shaft which prevented the clutch disc from releasing who knows. Apparently the transmission internally is fine as after the installation above it shifts like new. The flywheel and pressure plate looked good for wear, the clutch probably had another 5,000-10,000 miles to go (close to rivets)
- keep the body cleaned and waxed. Clean dirt from bumpers (paint the hidden area with rustoleum) and locations where it hangs behind the body.
- keep an eye on the sheet metal fold over seams (tailgate, bottom of doors, etc). I found mine to start showing bubbles and rust. Since they arent seen from view I dremel the rust area with a small wheel and then paint with rustoleum (the bright red closely matches my truck) The rustoleum will not stick to the polyurethane body paint but will stick to the bare metal, galvanizing and primer. Trust me on this, once rust starts, it'll move along quickly. So best to nip it in the bud. Make sure to remove all the rust while it's small with a small wire wheel. By the same method, I always go over the box in my truck with the rustoleum paint after hauling to seal up the areas where the box was scraped (I have a rubber mat liner and probably should have invested in Rhinoliner or equal). Intesting in a good tonneau (bed) cover is worth the investiment.
- clean and paint frame yearly to hide rust with rustoleum flat black. This keeps the frame looking like new.
- go over hoses and bushings with Silicone spray. It'll keep them pliable (and slow the aging process).
- keep the interior clean.
- keep the engine clean (I clean mine every 7500 miles, hose it all down at the local carwash - the DC mechanics thank me regularly).
- Hella 9007 65/55w lamps make a big difference in the intensity and quality of light coming from the headlamps.
- replace all taillight and turnsignal lamps (bulbs) at 100000miles. It's better than being pulled over by the Local Yocal after having a few
(and much cheaper).
- the B&W Hidden-Hitch is really a great piece for flexible gooseneck and 5-wheel pulling.
- I run PowerService Injector Cleaner/Lube and Fuel Treatment every oil change.
- I run 8oz 2-stroke engine oil every 32 gallons of fuel (at your own risk), every 5th tank I dont add it).
-----------
Next items to consider for me (let me know your experiences):
- service A/C - mines still cold but sooner or later she's gonna let loose
- replace engine oil pump
- rebuild/replace alternator
- rebearing/replace the idler pulleys
- keep an eye on the radiator, radiator hoses
- hope the injectors hold out (ones making ticking noise for 100,000 miles but I'm still getting 20-23mpg mixed driving so I'm not worried)
Final thoughts:
1) Cummins engines are Awesome (Dodge parts are expensive and considering labor to replace, much better to go aftermarket after warranty - Dodge needs to rethink their pricing structure and parts inventory logistics) (OK, flame me).
2) Even though the Cummins makes a lot of new noises through the miles - dont worry, she'll pull through.
3) Dodge really needs to pay attention to paint application and body seam locations (apply seam sealer would be a good idea). I have 'older' vehicles (by 8 years) which are not displaying the rust at body seam locations and they experience the same driving and exterior storage conditions (not that I have a big problem yet, simply disappointing considering the truck costs twice as much as the car).
4) The chrome (even though I keep the body cleaned and waxed) is pitting. I have a 67 mustang with original chome (applied to white metal) which looks better in most cases.
5) The lack of rattles, squeaks, relative tightness and overall ride quality of the truck at 180,000 miles is really amazing (mine has snow plow package and still fit the OE BF Goodrich Rugged Trail TAs on the truck. They last 50k miles each time, only get noisy in the last 5000 miles of wear, and work really well in all weather conditions while looking good doing it).
6) Would I buy another? Absolutely (unsure with the full emissions sytems on the newer models, but would definitely get another 03 pre-emissions rig). But...at this point I'm keeping her for at least 300k miles. Considering the truck is still work $15-19,000 on a trade in, it's worth investing a few thousand to keep it running in my mind.
Hope it helps. I think this is good info for someone looking to purchase a used rig or possibly in what to expect in maintaining their own.
Anyone has any helpful hints for me, let me know.
- 2003 Ram 2500, 5.9 Cummins HO (305/555), 4x4, 6-spd, Reg-Cab, Long-Box, 3.73.
Few things I learned for Forum knowledge:
- Change oil and filter regularly 7500mile schedule; I use Shell Rotella T (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- Change fuel filter just as regularly (recommendation by my Uncle who was a Cummins mechanic for years)
- change air filter regularly. I do mine twice a year - March after the roads are clean from the salt, November before winter starts. It's the same time I replace my windshield wiper blades.
- change transmission, transfer case, and front and rear diff oil every 50k miles or after getting them wet (who cares what the book says)
- When out of warranty replace factory sealed U-joints with greasable units and grease regularly (factory one spent around 50k miles) - remember the outer tie rod ball joints are factory greaseable!!!
- at 50,000 miles I installed the MBRP single 4" exhaust. Also removed the turbo silencer ring and hogged out the factory air intake wind vane. Picked up 2-4 mpg (if I kept my foot out of it and kept the sustained highway rpms under 2000 or 70mph)
- Monitor the front hubs, one side started going bad with a squeak at 90k miles, the other at 92k miles (anticipating to do them again soon).
- 100,000 miles, flush radiator, replace thermostats.
- steering knuckle ball joints: mine went (both sides) and was found at state inspection at 120,000 miles (garage said mine lasted longer than most).
- Keep an eye on the electro-mechanical fan after nearing 150,000 miles
- Keep the other eye on the steering gearbox and pump around the same.
- keep the third eye on the water pump
- replace fan belt 175,000 miles (mine still looked good so I kept it in the cab).
- my factory clutch went at 180,000 miles. Replaced clutch, pressure plate, pilot and throwout bearing; removed glaze from flywheel (didnt cut as I have no chatter). Also replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder (couldnt justify doing one without the other). FYI: This initially cloaked itself as a synchronizer (or shifter) issue as the clutch held strong and worked fine; but then in about 5000 miles really disclosed itself as a clutch/input shaft spin-down problem. Either it was the pilot bearing, slight warp to the clutch disc/ pressure plate, the master/slave cylinder wearing, or the build up of goop on the input shaft which prevented the clutch disc from releasing who knows. Apparently the transmission internally is fine as after the installation above it shifts like new. The flywheel and pressure plate looked good for wear, the clutch probably had another 5,000-10,000 miles to go (close to rivets)
- keep the body cleaned and waxed. Clean dirt from bumpers (paint the hidden area with rustoleum) and locations where it hangs behind the body.
- keep an eye on the sheet metal fold over seams (tailgate, bottom of doors, etc). I found mine to start showing bubbles and rust. Since they arent seen from view I dremel the rust area with a small wheel and then paint with rustoleum (the bright red closely matches my truck) The rustoleum will not stick to the polyurethane body paint but will stick to the bare metal, galvanizing and primer. Trust me on this, once rust starts, it'll move along quickly. So best to nip it in the bud. Make sure to remove all the rust while it's small with a small wire wheel. By the same method, I always go over the box in my truck with the rustoleum paint after hauling to seal up the areas where the box was scraped (I have a rubber mat liner and probably should have invested in Rhinoliner or equal). Intesting in a good tonneau (bed) cover is worth the investiment.
- clean and paint frame yearly to hide rust with rustoleum flat black. This keeps the frame looking like new.
- go over hoses and bushings with Silicone spray. It'll keep them pliable (and slow the aging process).
- keep the interior clean.
- keep the engine clean (I clean mine every 7500 miles, hose it all down at the local carwash - the DC mechanics thank me regularly).
- Hella 9007 65/55w lamps make a big difference in the intensity and quality of light coming from the headlamps.
- replace all taillight and turnsignal lamps (bulbs) at 100000miles. It's better than being pulled over by the Local Yocal after having a few
(and much cheaper).- the B&W Hidden-Hitch is really a great piece for flexible gooseneck and 5-wheel pulling.
- I run PowerService Injector Cleaner/Lube and Fuel Treatment every oil change.
- I run 8oz 2-stroke engine oil every 32 gallons of fuel (at your own risk), every 5th tank I dont add it).
-----------
Next items to consider for me (let me know your experiences):
- service A/C - mines still cold but sooner or later she's gonna let loose
- replace engine oil pump
- rebuild/replace alternator
- rebearing/replace the idler pulleys
- keep an eye on the radiator, radiator hoses
- hope the injectors hold out (ones making ticking noise for 100,000 miles but I'm still getting 20-23mpg mixed driving so I'm not worried)
Final thoughts:
1) Cummins engines are Awesome (Dodge parts are expensive and considering labor to replace, much better to go aftermarket after warranty - Dodge needs to rethink their pricing structure and parts inventory logistics) (OK, flame me).
2) Even though the Cummins makes a lot of new noises through the miles - dont worry, she'll pull through.
3) Dodge really needs to pay attention to paint application and body seam locations (apply seam sealer would be a good idea). I have 'older' vehicles (by 8 years) which are not displaying the rust at body seam locations and they experience the same driving and exterior storage conditions (not that I have a big problem yet, simply disappointing considering the truck costs twice as much as the car).
4) The chrome (even though I keep the body cleaned and waxed) is pitting. I have a 67 mustang with original chome (applied to white metal) which looks better in most cases.
5) The lack of rattles, squeaks, relative tightness and overall ride quality of the truck at 180,000 miles is really amazing (mine has snow plow package and still fit the OE BF Goodrich Rugged Trail TAs on the truck. They last 50k miles each time, only get noisy in the last 5000 miles of wear, and work really well in all weather conditions while looking good doing it).
6) Would I buy another? Absolutely (unsure with the full emissions sytems on the newer models, but would definitely get another 03 pre-emissions rig). But...at this point I'm keeping her for at least 300k miles. Considering the truck is still work $15-19,000 on a trade in, it's worth investing a few thousand to keep it running in my mind.
Hope it helps. I think this is good info for someone looking to purchase a used rig or possibly in what to expect in maintaining their own.
Anyone has any helpful hints for me, let me know.
09-01-2009, 07:42 AM
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Good write up
I printed it out, but I will have to question the trade in price, I thought the same too, when I went looking for my new to me dually, No one would give me more then 14k for my 03 with 78k miles. It was in great shape no issues.
I printed it out, but I will have to question the trade in price, I thought the same too, when I went looking for my new to me dually, No one would give me more then 14k for my 03 with 78k miles. It was in great shape no issues.
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09-01-2009, 07:16 PM
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Yeah so they cab turn around and sell it for 19K LOLOL!!!!!
09-02-2009, 05:43 AM
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I use "Rustoleum flat black" rattle can spray from Wal mart (4 cans do the underside nicely). I spray the axles, driveshaft and all (anything factory black; staying away from the bar code decals etc).
Nice thing I have found, I wax my truck before this, and have noticed that the rustoleum doesnt stick to the polyeurethane paint (comes off with high pressure wash after a little time or with a clay bar); I am particular about paint, but given I have 180k miles on it the 'newness' love is gone my attention has gone to maintenance and the rig overall looking good. Rustoleum will stick to glass, aluminum, wheels etc. So if your particular about your wheels glass and finish. Cover with old blankets (not the wifes new comforter, that didnt go over so well one time), etc.
09-02-2009, 05:45 AM
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...but I'm not trading in the truck
09-02-2009, 05:53 AM
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09-02-2009, 05:54 AM
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I use a wire brush. Nothing fancy. And go over the frame at the welds or any surface displaying surface rust. I'm not too particular either. I use rustoleum spray in the bottle. I dont mask anything. Simply wait for a cool morning in the fall where the breeze is non existant. I use a short piece of cardboard to control overspray and edge areas (like decals, exhaust pipe hangers etc).
I use "Rustoleum flat black" rattle can spray from Wal mart (4 cans do the underside nicely). I spray the axles, driveshaft and all (anything factory black; staying away from the bar code decals etc).
Nice thing I have found, I wax my truck before this, and have noticed that the rustoleum doesnt stick to the polyeurethane paint (comes off with high pressure wash after a little time or with a clay bar); I am particular about paint, but given I have 180k miles on it the 'newness' love is gone my attention has gone to maintenance and the rig overall looking good. Rustoleum will stick to glass, aluminum, wheels etc. So if your particular about your wheels glass and finish. Cover with old blankets (not the wifes new comforter, that didnt go over so well one time), etc.
I use "Rustoleum flat black" rattle can spray from Wal mart (4 cans do the underside nicely). I spray the axles, driveshaft and all (anything factory black; staying away from the bar code decals etc).
Nice thing I have found, I wax my truck before this, and have noticed that the rustoleum doesnt stick to the polyeurethane paint (comes off with high pressure wash after a little time or with a clay bar); I am particular about paint, but given I have 180k miles on it the 'newness' love is gone my attention has gone to maintenance and the rig overall looking good. Rustoleum will stick to glass, aluminum, wheels etc. So if your particular about your wheels glass and finish. Cover with old blankets (not the wifes new comforter, that didnt go over so well one time), etc.
09-02-2009, 09:21 PM
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I sprayed around it. I like the factory look and mix of bare metals etc. Simply point the spray nossle away from the area to be painted and use loose cardboard to edge (like I said...I'm not too particular about edging).
09-02-2009, 09:32 PM
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LP and FCA
By popular vote I replaced the Lift Pump tonight with an OE fuel bowl mounted replacement from NAPA by FederalMogul. Can report noises are slightly quieter/elimated under the hood.
Tomorrow the Fuel Control Actuator (bolts to CP3) should be in. Hoping it cures my very sporadic drifting idle (most of the time it idles fine just sometimes it floats to 1000rpm+/-75 and spits/stutters a little).
Read elsewhere it could be the culprit...
Tomorrow the Fuel Control Actuator (bolts to CP3) should be in. Hoping it cures my very sporadic drifting idle (most of the time it idles fine just sometimes it floats to 1000rpm+/-75 and spits/stutters a little).
Read elsewhere it could be the culprit...