joebaker82

I have the ground work done on my truck just looking for some power. want to make a good amount. I dont tow anything just want the truck to haul ***. Only problem is that it is a ho I know the IP and injectors are suspect.

Any suggestions?

DIESELWRKS

dont know what you mean by ground work. really you need to ask yourself what do you want. HP and TQ and drivability wise. you put the wrong go fast parts on to soon or wrong order and you break stuff. head studs. turbo, or twins. cam, springs. fuel box/ timing box. or both and smarty. diff injection pump. SO or a modified. and DD clutch to hold it or there is no point. your a manual so you can only be so fast starting out. also consider injectors 150-200hp. just all depends on $ and what your goal is. look at other things like suspension, steering, trac bar etc. if you have a goal in mind I'm sure more people can chime in and help with what they have done.

joebaker82

what i meant by ground work was that i had covered the basics FP exhaust intake. the stuff that you start out with. I really only want like 400 hp i dont think i could afford to run anything more than that. I just dont know if i should go programmer or if i should go injectors with the ho ip. What would be the item to buy first. I heard that programmers dont run aswell on ho.

DIESELWRKS

injectors and a smarty goes great with a HO. makes it wake up.

XJJoe01

As stated before, Mach 4s, Smarty, and a new clutch.... Then a studs, fire rings, and a new turbo, then twins, 5" exhaust, then.......

Have fun,

Joe

totalloser

I am happy with my mods and it makes about 400hp. EZ to give boost fooling timing, and a wee bit (low setting) of low rpm fueling, and tips to fuel the rest. The stock turbo will handle it if you turn it up.

You will NEED a clutch though. Don't try and drive 'till you smoke it. Mine wrinkled the friction backing making the clutch drag. It won't hold up. If you have the big shaft (1.375" vs 1.25") then you have the 13" clutch not the 12.25 and can still get away with stock friction lining (beefier hub though) which is not grabby, and lasts. www.valair.com is where I got mine, and still stoked on it. VERY competitive pricing. Stock 13" clutch will survive about 350hp.

But there are a lot of ways to go to get the power. Bigger chip, smaller injectors etc. I just about soiled myself with glee when I drove for the first time with the new sticks. It was unreal compared to stock.

400 hp is about the limit for the stock hx35 turbo though. Past that and you should be looking for a bigger turbo. And the stocker SHOULD be turned up to keep exhaust temps and coal rolling under control.

XJJoe01

No disrespect, but I disagree with that statement. On my truck, a 02 HO, the stock clutch slipped with just the smarty at 75000 miles. I am soft on the clutch and baby my truck.

I personally went with a Southbend ConOFE and couldn't be happier. I know it costs more than rest, but I figured with the amount of people running this clutch on this site who are happy with it, it should be the real deal and it is.

I don't want this turning into clutch manufacture war, but this site's information has been very good to me and the parts most people are running have never steered me wrong.

Now, all I need are a set of Mach 1.6 sticks and I will be set.


-Joe

8UPRACIN

Just depends on how much $$$$$ you wanta spend. I have finally hit the max fuel output on my HO pump today but it made 572/1264 with a big shot from the bottle. Good luck but always make sure you think ahead cause your normally going to want to make more power later on... trust me you'll be bitten by the diesel bug!!!

DIESELWRKS

yes again I agree. I went through 2 southbend clutches ofe and FE before my DD3600 because I out grew them with adding power. Not a big fan of any other clutch besides south bend. adding a smarty you can pull codes. bring in alot of early TQ has good MPG tuning. but a smarty can easily kill a OEM clutch even some of the aftermarket clutches its not the HP that kills the clutch it would be the hard hitting TQ that clutches have a hard time holding. there are tons of way to add power but only smart ways of doing this and not putting havoc on things. find your goal and what you safely want out of it. I woul look at some other common probs with our trucks with the steering this is a good fix for many miles for you and the truck. DSS steering stabilizer, many companies make this. a good adjustable trac bar. etc. good luck do your homework spend it smart so your not doing what I have done. but at least I know what its like to break u-joints and yokes on dyno's scary.... hey 8-up you need to send me a number for the dyno over there.

totalloser

None taken. I'm just sharing my experience, which is checked against the numbers for a "stock" Valair. The "stock" clutch I wrinkled was actually a LUK. I'm using *guestimated* crank HP/TQ maybe you're talking RWHP #s? Or maybe it is the low rpm tq of the tuner. Mebbe I was just lucky... until I wrinkled it and had to limp home.

FWIW I'm mean as hell to my clutch!

BTW to the OP: The nice thing about settling in around 350 or 400hp is that you are still using a LOT of stock parts. Very economical build. Past this, and you need to start spending some real money, starting with a bigger turbo. I probably only have a couple grand into my engine, and half of that is the brake!

IE how deep are your pockets is what I'd be asking myself.

rebal

my 01 with the way its set up has run away from Hemi rumble bees
and it has very good street manners and will pull a house .
That said I lost my stock clutch very soon after the mods 3 years later the head gasket ,I have to leave the truck alone now because
it scares my wife to floor it! and she said its FAST enough . my last DYNO run was at 335/800 seems kinda low for as fast as it runs.one more thing is this set up gets great MPGs.
when I drive it I get 20-21 mpg wife seems to get better then that
and I dont know why.

totalloser

See that's what I mean. With those mods rebal clearly has a LOT more power at the crank than 335/800. That's gotta be rwhp. But I think a lot of the specs for clutches are based on Crank HP not rear wheel hp, so beware.

The numbers I am quoting are based on crank hp.

johnh

i have over 400, check my sig

DIESELWRKS

IMO there isn't really a draw back going to a bigger clutch even if its overkill clutch like a DD. alittle more money. both of my clutchs before didn't hold even though they stated they should of held. but I believe it was my TQ that was slipping the clutches. due to the Smarty. without the smarty in my sig, I would not slip but with I would slip. but now all is good. with the Double disk.
I really think the big name clutch companies are advertising rear wheel holding. in a buisness of power adding. and everyone looking at rear wheel numbers. I would be suprised if a clutch company sold clutches off flywheel power.

totalloser

Well, you definitely don't want too small of a clutch!

There are drawbacks to higher rated clutches that are single disc, though. I believe Kevlar doesn't wear as well, and ceramic is excessively grabby. I might have that mixed up, but that's why I chose to limit my power where it is, and go with an organic lining.

And of course it's nice to have economical replacement parts- at least for me.

As to crank vs rwhp, I could be wrong... if I am, you'll have a clutch too strong. If you base your clutch choice on rwhp and it's actually rated for crank hp (where the clutch actually sits) that would mean your clutch would be too weak. So it might be worth verifying.

BTW, a good thing to consider is looking at folk's sigs and the hp/costs to do what they are doing. In my experience most folks are happy talk about their truck.