got...DIESEL?

okay guys, the parts are still dribbling in for the 5sp conversion, but by the end of next week, it should be operational again. The trans is brand new with the splined shaft and all the other "fixes" done to it. The clutch is an SBC ConFE 13-1.25 conversion, the engine is in the sig.

Here's the question......by general consensus, those that drag the 5 speeds, how are you leaving the hole? Are you dragging the disc to get spooled up, or just dropping the hammer on a dump? I'm not sure of the track manners of this clutch and A)don't wanna kill it right off, but B)want to of course leave the line hard and not wait too long for boost if you know what I mean. And I assume you're either leaving in 2nd or 3rd...correct? And what are the pros and cons of each gear?

The next question.....what are you guys seeing break first...inputs, tcase shafts, joints, etc? I know there's always a weak link, and from your experiences, what should I expect, or buy to prevent costly failures?

I know I will ride the line when running the truck, but I want to be educated and not learn by hard knocks any more than necessary. These monsters are a whole different ball of wax than the ol' RB mopar cars I used to exploit! I have had my share of lessons with the autos in these trucks I'll tell ya that! And I don't think my spouse will be excited to see much more drivetrain expenditures for a while

So anyway, help me out and thanks in advance.

ds1rider

Take some pics. and document. A lot of us want to do the conversion.

got...DIESEL?

most definitely....I'm doing a complete tech article with pictures for high-impact's website as well. I'll post a thread here as well up in the 2nd gen drivetrain forum.

joefarmer

Dragging the disk in 3rd. Starting in 2nd was almost 1 second slower. The problem is that it takes LOTS of practice to do it. By the time you're finished practicing, your clutch is gone. Save the drag racing for the auto.

brandon.

dodgeman01

If your going to drag you should have spent the extra money for the DD clutch
DM01

blackdiesel

i agree with dodgeman here

storx

isnt there a air shift system out there that electronicly controls the launch by the click of a button?....

MCummings

Your FE will not handle a slipped launch.

Rev it high in 2nd gear (2,500rpm), in 4 hi, slip the clutch for a quick second, to get about 5-10PSI, then let the clutch all the way out.

If you have the stock turbo, it will build boost really fast. Your best bet will be to short shift 2nd gear. Depending where your power falls off at. For Example, my 24V Peaks around 2,700RPM or so, and I shift right at my peak, and that helps me stretch out 3rd gear long and hard. I've had way better luck short shifting 2nd gear, and riding out the rest, than trying to squeeze 2nd gear.

For the first few passes after your 150 mile break-in, don't shift WOT,, let off to about 1/4 throttle between gear shifts. These clutchs like to be broken in gently. Don't slip the clutch too much, it can warp.

After you've got a couple passes down, don't be afraid to shift WOT, but only if the clutch holds.

Other than that,, have fun, and if you aren't making over 550 RWHP shift it out of 4wd, into 2wd during 4th gear, and on the 4-5shift it will pop out of 4wd raising your MPH.

Hope this helps,
Merrick

gunracer1

i have run the 5 speed with a 13.25 fe, the 6 speed with a 3800 10 puck dual disk and a 3600 12 puck dual disk. and from my vast experince drag racing, they all suck compared to a decent auto. the best run i have ever done is a 9.04 1/8th and that was with the truck grinding going into 4th gear. i thing it took 3 tries to get it in. dual disk and shifting fast really have never seemed to work for me. the 5 speed with the fe shifted a lot faster but would not hold a hard 3 to 4 shift, it would slip. if i let off during the shift it held fine. the dual disk holds like there is no tomorrow, but just does not like to shift fast. for daily driving and sled pulling the 6 speed is awsome. but i am starting to think i should have just saved my money and bought a full blown auto.

got...DIESEL?

Thanks guys....that's was I was looking for. This truck is just a street queen. We don't have a track and there is no real competition other than imports. I was just curious what to expect out of the clutch at a stoplight. All this help will get me started in the right direction. I won't be rowing hardcore, just looking for experience to get every edge I can. The real drag truck is under the knife as the sig shows, but I can't let any whippersnappers get the better of me. My best kill to date has been an srt-4 who dynoed in Anchorage at 380 horsepower. I was pretty proud of that one and he was rather depressed So when I'm running again, I'm sure they'll be out looking for me, assuming I'll be slower with the 5sp. We'll see.

Thanks again.

Chris

AndyMan

I hate to throw in a shameless plug, but I have a EEP dual disc that I would be happy to trade for an FE or OFE in good shape. My DD is practically brand new. I'm only tossing this in the fire because it looks like some of you might be looking for a clutch like this.

I'm interested in daily driving plus a little hot rodding. Not drag racing or sled pulling. The clutch was in the truck when I bought it.

Thanks and take care,
Andy

greenworks

In your first remark about reving to 2500 rpm do you hold the brake because if you slip it without the brake it will roll forward no?
Second remark about the WOT shifts, does that mean .... petal to floor while shifting not leting any rpm dowen or shfting but at like maybe 2000 rpm ish?

Thanks

MCummings

In my first remark (rev it to 2,500), this is what I was trying to say.

Fully Stage your truck (both yellow lights), and with the clutch fully released, "free rev" the motor to 2,500RPM, and when the green light comes on, don't just immediatly "dump" the clutch. Ride it out about 5 feet, or 5 pounds of boost, and be prepared to start popping off the gears.


As far as WOT shifts. Until the clutch is broken in, it won't hold a full throttle shift (never letting off the fuel). Once the clutch fully breaks in, it will, but not during break-in.

WOT shifts would be shifting with your motor about 300RPM before "redline".

I don't recommend being Wide Open Throttle below 2,000RPM as there is excessive stress on the motor and transmission.


Merrick