3rd Gen wheels: Everything you need to know
10-23-2009, 08:58 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
3rd Gen wheels: Everything you need to know
I have had so many people ask me about my 3rd gen wheels so I am going to attempt to explain what is needed to run 3rd gen wheels on a W250 or a W350. I have seen them 2 wheel-drive trucks, but I am not sure if anything is different or not. This writeup probably isn't as good as a Jim Lane or a BC847, but here it is.
As always, keep safety in mind, chock wheels, don't use cinder blocks, etc. You can do one wheel at a time, so it might not be a bad idea to lock the truck in 4-wheel drive, put it in gear, lock the brakes, and keep 3 on the floor at all times. Make sure your jack/jack stands are strong enough for the job as well. Wear a helmet when applicable etc.
Here is my estimated bill of materials: Rims/6,000 mile tires/caps/lugs combo courtesy of ebay: $760, Valve stems: < $10, Wheel Spacers courtesy of ebay: ~ $250.
Total: $1020
The rims are supposed to list from dodge for about $550 each, and the hubcaps are between $75 and $150 each, not to mention $800 worth of tires, I got away pretty cheap. It could have been more than $3,000 if I was to get this stuff new from a dodge dealer!
Here are style spacers that I used. The lug pattern is 8 X 6.5. This means that there are 8 lugs, and the opposite lugs are 6.5" apart. I got 1.5" spacers, but 2" spacers will work as well. Mine came with 9/16 studs, and that way I could use the stock 3rd gen lug nuts, and use the hub caps. I prefer 1.5" spacers, and I will explain why later in this post.
I think these will work as well, but the wheels will look funny because they will be so far under the truck, and it is hard to find lug studs long enough to run the thick aluminum rims with spacers. Some people have 1/8" spacers, but 1/4" spacers wouldn't work on my truck. I think they make them as thick as 1/2" but it would be hard to find lug studs long enough. Trust me, I looked all over. I also don't like the idea that those spacers will never be concentric with the rim or the hub because the lug nut doesn't come into contact with it. I don't know if it would affect anything or not for sure, but I would expect some vibration.
If you want to convert to 9/16 lugs, now is the time. My spacers came with special 9/16 lug nuts that fit inside the counter-sink nicely. By nicely I mean I can get any socket in there. When I had 1/2" studs with stock lug nuts, I had to use a 3/8 drive socket because the wall wasn't as thick as any of my 1/2 drive sockets, and it barely fit. It isn't a big deal. If you do press new lug studs in, MAKE SURE YOU RE-TORQUE THEM OFTEN for the first few days of driving. Honestly, pull the wheels off and re-torque to the same amount, and repeat until they stop loosening up. You should at least check them anyway, whether you press new studs in or not.
Once you have your spacers installed, you can install your wheels. If you use the stock 3rd gen 9/16 lug nuts, you can use the factory hub caps as I said before. If you do use 1/2 inch studs, you can get lug nuts for those studs to hold your caps on, like the one shown:
Mopar part number: (6034834 NUT .750 22005024) Don't buy them from the Dodge dealer if you can help it. I don't have any Napa or Car Quest part numbers, but they might be able to cross this number.
I torqued my wheels to 100 pounds, and haven't had a problem yet. I believe the 3rd gen trucks call for something around 135 pounds, but I didn't want to push those aluminum spacers too hard. If you buy aluminum wheels, it is very important that you torque them all to the same amount, because they can warp otherwise. I don't think that is the case with steel rims though. Either way, I always use a torque wrench.
Here are the rims on my truck with the stock 265/70R17 BFG Rugged Trails.
The last two pics are of the front with the hub caps cut to clear the lockout hubs. This is where the thickness of your spacers come in. I stated before that I preferred 1.5" spacers, and that is because they allow the lockout to stick out just past the cap as shown. To cut the holes, I put each hub cap in a lathe, and marked center with a spot drill. I took them out, and used a carbide insert circle cutter on a drill press to cut the holes, like the one shown below:
Mine only has one carbide, and it worked just fine. You will need one person to hold the cap to the table of the drill press, and one person to run the quill of the drill press. Please use common sense and think in terms of safety when doing this. If you don't feel safe doing this, have a professional do it, or leave the caps off the front. I think my cutter cost $15 to $25, but this isn't the only thing I have used it for. As soon as you have one, you will use it a lot if you're anything like me.
Here's my truck with a set of 315/70R17 Yokohama Geolandar AT/S tires. I would recommend this tire to anyone who drives in the winter, but I would be careful putting a tire of this size onto a truck without a lift kit. (34.6" tall, 12.5" at widest point, ~10.5" tread width) The wheel well openings are big enough that they look like they would fit, but when you turn you may run into problems. My springs are junk, so I made front shackles that are 2" longer to gain about 1" of height. They rub on my aluminum mud flaps when i turn, but I don't think they would rub if I took the mud flaps off. I like the protection from rocks and debris however, so I deal with the sound of them rubbing when i turn. Not a big deal. I had no rubbing issues with the 265/70R17s though, even with running boards. I do love how they look though.
Hope this helps those of you looking into installing 3rd gen wheels. If I missed anything or if you have any other questions feel free to pm me.
As always, keep safety in mind, chock wheels, don't use cinder blocks, etc. You can do one wheel at a time, so it might not be a bad idea to lock the truck in 4-wheel drive, put it in gear, lock the brakes, and keep 3 on the floor at all times. Make sure your jack/jack stands are strong enough for the job as well. Wear a helmet when applicable etc.
Here is my estimated bill of materials: Rims/6,000 mile tires/caps/lugs combo courtesy of ebay: $760, Valve stems: < $10, Wheel Spacers courtesy of ebay: ~ $250.
Total: $1020
The rims are supposed to list from dodge for about $550 each, and the hubcaps are between $75 and $150 each, not to mention $800 worth of tires, I got away pretty cheap. It could have been more than $3,000 if I was to get this stuff new from a dodge dealer!
Here are style spacers that I used. The lug pattern is 8 X 6.5. This means that there are 8 lugs, and the opposite lugs are 6.5" apart. I got 1.5" spacers, but 2" spacers will work as well. Mine came with 9/16 studs, and that way I could use the stock 3rd gen lug nuts, and use the hub caps. I prefer 1.5" spacers, and I will explain why later in this post.
I think these will work as well, but the wheels will look funny because they will be so far under the truck, and it is hard to find lug studs long enough to run the thick aluminum rims with spacers. Some people have 1/8" spacers, but 1/4" spacers wouldn't work on my truck. I think they make them as thick as 1/2" but it would be hard to find lug studs long enough. Trust me, I looked all over. I also don't like the idea that those spacers will never be concentric with the rim or the hub because the lug nut doesn't come into contact with it. I don't know if it would affect anything or not for sure, but I would expect some vibration.
If you want to convert to 9/16 lugs, now is the time. My spacers came with special 9/16 lug nuts that fit inside the counter-sink nicely. By nicely I mean I can get any socket in there. When I had 1/2" studs with stock lug nuts, I had to use a 3/8 drive socket because the wall wasn't as thick as any of my 1/2 drive sockets, and it barely fit. It isn't a big deal. If you do press new lug studs in, MAKE SURE YOU RE-TORQUE THEM OFTEN for the first few days of driving. Honestly, pull the wheels off and re-torque to the same amount, and repeat until they stop loosening up. You should at least check them anyway, whether you press new studs in or not.
Once you have your spacers installed, you can install your wheels. If you use the stock 3rd gen 9/16 lug nuts, you can use the factory hub caps as I said before. If you do use 1/2 inch studs, you can get lug nuts for those studs to hold your caps on, like the one shown:
Mopar part number: (6034834 NUT .750 22005024) Don't buy them from the Dodge dealer if you can help it. I don't have any Napa or Car Quest part numbers, but they might be able to cross this number.
I torqued my wheels to 100 pounds, and haven't had a problem yet. I believe the 3rd gen trucks call for something around 135 pounds, but I didn't want to push those aluminum spacers too hard. If you buy aluminum wheels, it is very important that you torque them all to the same amount, because they can warp otherwise. I don't think that is the case with steel rims though. Either way, I always use a torque wrench.
Here are the rims on my truck with the stock 265/70R17 BFG Rugged Trails.
The last two pics are of the front with the hub caps cut to clear the lockout hubs. This is where the thickness of your spacers come in. I stated before that I preferred 1.5" spacers, and that is because they allow the lockout to stick out just past the cap as shown. To cut the holes, I put each hub cap in a lathe, and marked center with a spot drill. I took them out, and used a carbide insert circle cutter on a drill press to cut the holes, like the one shown below:
Mine only has one carbide, and it worked just fine. You will need one person to hold the cap to the table of the drill press, and one person to run the quill of the drill press. Please use common sense and think in terms of safety when doing this. If you don't feel safe doing this, have a professional do it, or leave the caps off the front. I think my cutter cost $15 to $25, but this isn't the only thing I have used it for. As soon as you have one, you will use it a lot if you're anything like me.
Here's my truck with a set of 315/70R17 Yokohama Geolandar AT/S tires. I would recommend this tire to anyone who drives in the winter, but I would be careful putting a tire of this size onto a truck without a lift kit. (34.6" tall, 12.5" at widest point, ~10.5" tread width) The wheel well openings are big enough that they look like they would fit, but when you turn you may run into problems. My springs are junk, so I made front shackles that are 2" longer to gain about 1" of height. They rub on my aluminum mud flaps when i turn, but I don't think they would rub if I took the mud flaps off. I like the protection from rocks and debris however, so I deal with the sound of them rubbing when i turn. Not a big deal. I had no rubbing issues with the 265/70R17s though, even with running boards. I do love how they look though.
Hope this helps those of you looking into installing 3rd gen wheels. If I missed anything or if you have any other questions feel free to pm me.
10-23-2009, 09:50 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Quinton, New Jersey (middle of nowhere)
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Looks so good man, and good info 
new background on my computer
Where did you get the clear marker lights on the fenders??? in the newest pics.
And dumb question, but you did use spacers on all 4 right ??
new background on my computer
Where did you get the clear marker lights on the fenders??? in the newest pics.
And dumb question, but you did use spacers on all 4 right ??
10-23-2009, 10:25 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys, and yes I used spacers on all four corners. The back had no clearance issues, but I wanted the track width to be the same. It would have looked funny too. I got the clear marker lights from ebay.
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10-23-2009, 11:01 PM
#8
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i agree truck looks awesome man and great write up.....should be a sticky if somebody hasnt already done it......now get the truck rolling some coal smoke man!
10-23-2009, 11:21 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Yeah, I am gonna get it back on the dyno at school here, and we're gonna use the optical tach, and turn the full power screw up until it stops making power. (or until it runs away) My hx-35 cleaned up most of my smoke. I can only roll coal when there is no boost. must be doing it's job lol.
