bowedup2003

Quick question guys, are the lower ball joints on the 2wd 3500's pressed or riveted in? I have 1 going out, the one I bought from oriellys is a press-in but the local frontend shop says they are riveted in

I plan on tackling this Saturday and I want go make sure I have the right parts.

Thanks,

Bowedup

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2004.5 Dodge 3500 QuadCab 2wd Dually, Cummins, 6 Speed, Jake Brake, Autometer boost & pyro gauges, Dexter brake controller, Uniden CB, custom front bumper & headache rack

1984 Ford F350 CC repowered w/ 6.9l diesel & 5-speed, Banks wastegated turbo setup, 3" downpipe to 4", full F-Superduty suspension, 5.13 gears, custom bumper and flatbed

2005 Chevy 2500HD CC Shortbed 2wd - Wife's truck, LLY Duramax, Allison 5 speed auto, every option except the sunroof

MikeyB

Should be pressed in.

MikeyB

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2003 2500 2wd SWB Quad Cab Laramie, 305/555, NV5600, 3.73LS, Line-X, Westach boost/EGT combo gauge, Fogzilla mod, PML diff cover, Airbox mod w/Amsoil Ea, Hurst 6spd Shift knob, Adjustable boost elbow, Toyo OC AT 285/70/17 E, Daystar 1.5" lift, Monroe Reflex, Raptor RP100, Lazarsmith Intake Horn, Headlight wiring upgrade
SMARTY/Van Aaken C3.2


2005 Dodge Magnum RT (Wife's ride)
2008 Dodge Caliber RT (Daughter's ride)
1990 HD FXSTS

8mpg

My 06 is riveted

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2006 Dodge Ram Megacab 6psd - Whistler intake, gauges...thats it for now.

bowedup2003

Ok, so the 2003's are pressed in and the 2006's are riveted in...

Any idea when they made the changeover? My 2004.5 falls right in the middle!

Thanks,

Bowedup

bowedup2003

Anybody know where the break is between pressed and riveted balljoints?

Thanks,

Bowedup

bowedup2003

Ok, in case anyone else gets to do there's, my 2004.5 had pressed-in balljoints and the loaner tools from oriellys will not work w/o some grinding and modifying to the press cups.

Bowedup

thunderdawg

Thanks for the follow up.

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2003 white 3500 SRW 4x2 SO 5 speed, Smarty... just do it, Rokktech, 3.73, Di-Pricol gauges, Roll 'n Lock tonneau... MBRP exhaust... Rancho 5279's up front with a Daystar 1-1/2" spacer... more to come!

Hannibal

I just replaced the lowers on my '05 2wd 2500 today. They're pressed in and boy are they tight. The loaner tool kit from Advance Auto Parts worked great but a longer breaker bar or cheater would have made it a lot easier. I "think" they're all pressed into a thick plate that's riveted to the lower control arm. Some replacements are already pressed into the plate and you replace the plate along with the joint. Moogs are press in so no grinding the rivets out. With 118k miles on 'em, mine had a good 1/4" vertical play in them and the original grease is all dried out. Looks like the upper control arms will be easy in comparison... Joints aren't bad but the boots are crumbling at only 5yrs.

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'05 2500 SLT QC Hemi 5spd auto/4.56, Reese 15k. 119k miles
ex'03 2500 QC SO ISBe 47RE/4.10 VDO gauges, Reese 15k
ex-'95 12v auto/regcab, '98 12v 5spd CC, '01.5 ISB QC auto.
'07 KZ Jag 28FJSS 5th wheel

w.tx iceman

What brand of ball joints did you go with, greasable?

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2001.5 2500 6 sp. van aaken BHAF 246,000 and counting sold

2005 st quad cab 6 speed ,superchips , striker 1 module,BHAF 97,000 10-19-07,176,000 11-25-09
Driving a powerstroke is like ED, you know it should but fails when you try.
DTR RIGHT WING EXTREMIST

Hannibal

I went with Moog. They're greasable. In the pic is the tool and the spindle tied back with the caliper tied back the other way. Now that it's done it wasn't all that bad but in the process I had my doubts. Next time I will without doubt have a longer breaker bar. Here's the part numbers on Moog's page...
http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com....asp?cat=12638

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