2002 4x4 Ball Joints - Dodge Diesel

cmckinney · 07-12-2004, 04:52 PM

Anyone that has done the newer 2nd gen trucks ball joints on the 4x4 have tips/hints and list of tools required for the job.

My tires are wearing bad. Something awful. My driver side lower ball joint is gone.

Moog part numbers or Napa appreciatted.
Lower and Upper part numbers?

Trying to fix the front end and do the brake pads while I'm in there.

-CM

Cowhand · 07-12-2004, 06:00 PM

Rent a ball joint press from the local parts house. Don't forget to do the cross joints while you're in there.

Try rockauto.com for parts. I'd give you the part #'s, but I believe the #'s are different for your 2002.

Hope you have a 1/2" drive socket set......

cmckinney · 07-12-2004, 06:29 PM

Cross member? Not familiar with that, explain por favor.

-CM

Dieseldude4x4 · 07-12-2004, 07:20 PM

Just bought four new ball joints for my sons 94 from NAPA. $19 and $29 each.
The bearing hubs were the expensive parts, $400 per side.

Cowhand · 07-13-2004, 12:36 AM

Cross joints. The u-joint looking things that sit between the ball joints.

rockauto had the front bearings for $180/side, IIRC. Can't remember the mfr, but I think they were a trusted name.

cmckinney · 07-13-2004, 10:26 AM

Ok got it.

Anyone worked on a 01 or 02' lately? Chime in....loved to hear some pointers.

-CM

Mcmopar · 07-13-2004, 11:00 AM

I just did everything you are talking about on my 98.5, BEWARE when pulling the hubs that the bearings don't seperate. If they do you have to replace them, my hubs were good, but they seperated

That cost me an extra 500 bucks. I would replace the axle seals when you do this job, I only replaced the leaking one, quess what? That side is good but now the other one leaks

. All in all it took me about 6 hours!!

gunhill · 07-13-2004, 03:40 PM

Replaced both u-joints and lower ball joints last winter on my '02 4x4. I soaked everything repeated with Kroil (penetrating oil). I didn't use a gear puller on the hub for fear of separating the bearing.

After removing the castle nut on the end and the ABS sensor I backed out the 4 - 12pt bolts about 1/4 of an inch and tried knocking it loose with a brass drift but that got me no where. I ended up using an old Ford kingpin and a big hammer to hit the 12 pt bolts as hard as i could. Dad helped...I held the kingpin with vice-grips and dad swung the hammer or vice versa. Obviously it will mushroom the bolt head. I sacraficed two which is a pain switching them around but I'm a tight wad at 7 bucks each. I also unhooked the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle so I could pivot the knuckle around easily to hit each side.

Getting the u-joints out was easy but I had to take a torch to the center of the old ball joint. I just 'blew out' a hole in the center and beat it out with a hammer. It may have been easier with a ball joint remover but I used a large socket and c-clamp but that didn't do much.

Just remember when you put it all back together to put a coating of anti-seeze in the steering knuckle so the hub won't rust to it by the next time you take it apart.

I used TRW (or TWR?) ball joints (all I could find besides Mopar) and Federal Mogul u-joints.

Hope this helps.

Dieseldude4x4 · 07-13-2004, 06:46 PM

I ordered both of the inner axle seals but in order to get the left side in, you have to pull the gear set out and we ain't going there.

Mcmopar · 07-14-2004, 07:35 AM

Yup,

I didn't want to remove the ring gear, but now I have to!! Driver side seal now leaks, a lot!!

07-12-2004, 06:00 PM	#2
Cowhand Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe Posts: 1,515 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Rent a ball joint press from the local parts house. Don't forget to do the cross joints while you're in there. Try rockauto.com for parts. I'd give you the part #'s, but I believe the #'s are different for your 2002. Hope you have a 1/2" drive socket set...... __________________ 07.5 Mega 4X4, Laramie/6.7/68RFE 96 2500 CCLB 4X4, some Thuren stuff, some Carli stuff, some DT stuff, a bunch of stuff from Piers, some more stuff from Dave Goerend, and some other stuff too.

07-12-2004, 07:20 PM	#4
Dieseldude4x4 Administrator Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Claremont, Virginia Posts: 3,401 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Just bought four new ball joints for my sons 94 from NAPA. $19 and $29 each. The bearing hubs were the expensive parts, $400 per side. __________________ 99 3500 QC 4x4 five speed, 81 Dodge 150 with the leaning tower of power (slant 6), 2010 Mustang GT Premium (five speed baby) 2010 HD Road King Classic Board of Officers NCDTR #1 / President Virginia DTR Chapter #7 / DTR administrator CLICK HERE to get a copy of the DTR Membership form and join our local Virginia chapter. IT'S FREE!! Just print it out,,,, fill it out,,, and PM me for the address to mail it to!

07-13-2004, 11:00 AM	#7
Mcmopar Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 3,730 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	I just did everything you are talking about on my 98.5, BEWARE when pulling the hubs that the bearings don't seperate. If they do you have to replace them, my hubs were good, but they seperated That cost me an extra 500 bucks. I would replace the axle seals when you do this job, I only replaced the leaking one, quess what? That side is good but now the other one leaks . All in all it took me about 6 hours!! __________________ 1998 QC 4X4 SB 3.54-Antispin 12 Valve. Timed to 16.90. Dynoed 11/05 - 310/675 Dynoed again 02/07 - 436/957 retimed to 19.5, and some other pump stuff!! 1/4 mile time of 12.88@104. 11/2007--480/1000. Trustee, NC DTR#18 "That's Mr. McMosley to you!!"

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07-12-2004, 06:29 PM	#3
cmckinney Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 265 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Cross member? Not familiar with that, explain por favor. -CM

07-13-2004, 12:36 AM	#5
Cowhand Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe Posts: 1,515 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Cross joints. The u-joint looking things that sit between the ball joints. rockauto had the front bearings for $180/side, IIRC. Can't remember the mfr, but I think they were a trusted name.

07-13-2004, 10:26 AM	#6
cmckinney Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Dallas, Tx Posts: 265 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Ok got it. Anyone worked on a 01 or 02' lately? Chime in....loved to hear some pointers. -CM

07-13-2004, 03:40 PM	#8
gunhill Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: S. Indiana Posts: 1 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Replaced both u-joints and lower ball joints last winter on my '02 4x4. I soaked everything repeated with Kroil (penetrating oil). I didn't use a gear puller on the hub for fear of separating the bearing. After removing the castle nut on the end and the ABS sensor I backed out the 4 - 12pt bolts about 1/4 of an inch and tried knocking it loose with a brass drift but that got me no where. I ended up using an old Ford kingpin and a big hammer to hit the 12 pt bolts as hard as i could. Dad helped...I held the kingpin with vice-grips and dad swung the hammer or vice versa. Obviously it will mushroom the bolt head. I sacraficed two which is a pain switching them around but I'm a tight wad at 7 bucks each. I also unhooked the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle so I could pivot the knuckle around easily to hit each side. Getting the u-joints out was easy but I had to take a torch to the center of the old ball joint. I just 'blew out' a hole in the center and beat it out with a hammer. It may have been easier with a ball joint remover but I used a large socket and c-clamp but that didn't do much. Just remember when you put it all back together to put a coating of anti-seeze in the steering knuckle so the hub won't rust to it by the next time you take it apart. I used TRW (or TWR?) ball joints (all I could find besides Mopar) and Federal Mogul u-joints. Hope this helps.

07-13-2004, 06:46 PM	#9
Dieseldude4x4 Administrator Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Claremont, Virginia Posts: 3,401 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	I ordered both of the inner axle seals but in order to get the left side in, you have to pull the gear set out and we ain't going there.

07-14-2004, 07:35 AM	#10
Mcmopar Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Raleigh, NC Posts: 3,730 My Photo Gallery My Classified Ads	Yup, I didn't want to remove the ring gear, but now I have to!! Driver side seal now leaks, a lot!!