1990 D250 to W250
04-10-2014, 07:52 AM
#62
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Thread Starter
funny thing is the 1/2 ton blocks are 3 1/3" tall and missing the bump stop. Stock blocks on our trucks are3" and have the bump stop cast into them. otherwise they are exactly the same.
04-22-2014, 12:47 PM
#63
Registered User
Thread Starter
I spent some time last weekend checking the differences of the rear springs on the W250 and the D250. what I found is interesting. Both trucks have the same GVR of 8510lbs
the W250 leaves (below the main leaf) have square cut and have 6 regular leafs and one heavy leaf. rating is 3250lbs
The D250 Leaves have tapered ends (below the main leaf) and have 5 regular leafs and one heavy leaf. rating is 2500lbs.
The bushings are also different. The W250 uses a bushing OD of 1.5" the D250 is 1.250" both use a 5/8" bolt.
I decided to keep the D250 springs (same GVR) and maybe a better ride.
If there are problems with sway and/or wheel hop I can do something about that and keep my better ride too.
D250 right W250 left
the W250 leaves (below the main leaf) have square cut and have 6 regular leafs and one heavy leaf. rating is 3250lbs
The D250 Leaves have tapered ends (below the main leaf) and have 5 regular leafs and one heavy leaf. rating is 2500lbs.
The bushings are also different. The W250 uses a bushing OD of 1.5" the D250 is 1.250" both use a 5/8" bolt.
I decided to keep the D250 springs (same GVR) and maybe a better ride.
If there are problems with sway and/or wheel hop I can do something about that and keep my better ride too.
D250 right W250 left
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ARCHIVE (04-30-2016)
04-23-2014, 11:23 AM
#64
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Thread Starter
OOPS wrong picture the above are both theW250.
here is the D250.
I was looking at the pictures this morning and thought " my frame isn't that rusty"
here is the D250.
I was looking at the pictures this morning and thought " my frame isn't that rusty"
04-24-2014, 09:44 AM
#65
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Thread Starter
I am working on a set of braced front shackles today. It is sort of tight given so much of the shackle is above the bottom of the frame. But I have some ideas.
04-29-2014, 05:01 PM
#66
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Thread Starter
http://www.1stgen.org/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15339
This is where I got the Idea to make the Two position spring hangers. I am going to run the stock springs for now. and gather parts for a swap later.
This is where I got the Idea to make the Two position spring hangers. I am going to run the stock springs for now. and gather parts for a swap later.
04-30-2014, 02:15 PM
#67
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Thread Starter
Well here are the shackles The side plates are 3/8" They came out OK. we will see how they work.
They need a little more clean up though. I don't know what it is about this camera but no matter what it makes weld beads look awful.
P.S. these are for the stock length springs.
They need a little more clean up though. I don't know what it is about this camera but no matter what it makes weld beads look awful.
P.S. these are for the stock length springs.
04-30-2014, 08:55 PM
#68
Registered User
05-01-2014, 08:15 AM
#69
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Thread Starter
05-09-2014, 02:56 PM
#70
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Thread Starter
Yesterday I test fitted the front spring hangers. they fit pretty good. I had to do just a rat tail file work on the left hanger. I drilled them 1/2" because I don't have a 17/32" drill bit. I didn't get any pictures and I took it apart as it was going to rain and I had a bonsai club meeting to go to in the rain.
05-12-2014, 10:22 PM
#71
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Thread Starter
This morning I spent 3 hours removing a broken stearing stop bolt. it broke off with about 5/16 sticking out. So I cleaned it all up and welded a 3/8" nut to it. I then soaked the hell out of it with PB Blaster. I went about cleaning the rest of the housing for a while. I came back and tried to move the bolt back and forth and the nut broke off. I tried two variations of the first try with the same result.
The next move was to drill a 3/8 hole in a piece of 1/8" X1" flat about a foot long and weld that on the broken bolt.
The problem with that was it will only move so far in either direction. But the good part was I could get a good weld on it. I figure it's worth a try. that did it, was able to get the bolt to move back and forth enough to loosen it up. I ground off the weld and removed the bar and welded a nut on the bolt and finally got it out by working it back and forth, turn a little and repeat.
The next move was to drill a 3/8 hole in a piece of 1/8" X1" flat about a foot long and weld that on the broken bolt.
The problem with that was it will only move so far in either direction. But the good part was I could get a good weld on it. I figure it's worth a try. that did it, was able to get the bolt to move back and forth enough to loosen it up. I ground off the weld and removed the bar and welded a nut on the bolt and finally got it out by working it back and forth, turn a little and repeat.
05-13-2014, 02:59 PM
#72
Registered User
Hey Mark,
Glad you got it out with some perseverance. It brings to mind a technique I have had good luck with (if the screw is big enough in diameter). You drill the bolt (something like half the diameter) before welding the nut on, and use 6010, so that the weld & heat penetrate into the drilled hole, expanding the bolt while hot, and then shrinking everything back after it cools enough to loosen the threads.
Take it easy,
Alec
Glad you got it out with some perseverance. It brings to mind a technique I have had good luck with (if the screw is big enough in diameter). You drill the bolt (something like half the diameter) before welding the nut on, and use 6010, so that the weld & heat penetrate into the drilled hole, expanding the bolt while hot, and then shrinking everything back after it cools enough to loosen the threads.
Take it easy,
Alec
05-13-2014, 05:51 PM
#73
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey Mark,
Glad you got it out with some perseverance. It brings to mind a technique I have had good luck with (if the screw is big enough in diameter). You drill the bolt (something like half the diameter) before welding the nut on, and use 6010, so that the weld & heat penetrate into the drilled hole, expanding the bolt while hot, and then shrinking everything back after it cools enough to loosen the threads.
Take it easy,
Alec
Glad you got it out with some perseverance. It brings to mind a technique I have had good luck with (if the screw is big enough in diameter). You drill the bolt (something like half the diameter) before welding the nut on, and use 6010, so that the weld & heat penetrate into the drilled hole, expanding the bolt while hot, and then shrinking everything back after it cools enough to loosen the threads.
Take it easy,
Alec
05-15-2014, 12:13 PM
#74
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did some work on the vertical part of my front spring hangers these will replace the factory ones with the unused core support holes. At this point they are just tacked together. I originally mad the gussets for something else that never got very far I know the holes don't do anything but I think it looks better than the plain ones I started with.
