1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

1990 D250 to W250

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-16-2014, 09:37 PM
  #376  
Registered User
 
thrashingcows's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Prince George, BC
Posts: 7,235
Received 1,332 Likes on 862 Posts
I see in your post today that you finally removed those last couple floor plugs. And did you do all that sanding with the wee 2" sanding discs?
Old 09-16-2014, 09:37 PM
  #377  
Registered User
 
NJTman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,769
Received 1,637 Likes on 1,112 Posts
Hey...

No horse beating around here..... Otherwise, Pam Anderson will be coming after ya .....


If she's still a non meat eating PETA representative... that is.



Why did you remove all the paint ? Coating it with a bedliner ? That would be a good way to help prevent that rot that doesn't happen in Kalifornication, eh ?
Old 09-16-2014, 09:52 PM
  #378  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
I see in your post today that you finally removed those last couple floor plugs. And did you do all that sanding with the wee 2" sanding discs?
I was being lazy with those plugs. they finally got in the way.

Doing the floor with the 2" discs would be like scrubbing the bathroom floor with a toothbrush. I used a 6" DA with 80 grit discs, the 2" scotch bright discs and for the really rippley parts I used paint remover.
Old 09-16-2014, 10:03 PM
  #379  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
Originally Posted by NJTman
Hey...

No horse beating around here..... Otherwise, Pam Anderson will be coming after ya .....


If she's still a non meat eating PETA representative... that is.



Why did you remove all the paint ? Coating it with a bedliner ? That would be a good way to help prevent that rot that doesn't happen in Kalifornication, eh ?
PETA, I went to their website once just to see the lunacy. The big thing there was taking pictures of their bumper stickers on anything that they could find to stick them on. and posting them.( I guess everybody needs a hobby)

There were a bunch of little rusty spots on the that I figured while I was there. I would fix. It really isn't that much extra work with the right tools.
Old 09-16-2014, 10:15 PM
  #380  
Registered User
 
thrashingcows's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Prince George, BC
Posts: 7,235
Received 1,332 Likes on 862 Posts
Whenever I'm in a conversation with someone and the topic of vegetarian, or Vegan comes up, I like to toss out my comment....taken from a TV commercial years ago. I like to say, "You know I'm a Meatetarian....it's a life style choice!"

If there is a grass muncher in the group I will usually get a dirty look....
Old 09-17-2014, 04:01 PM
  #381  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
This morning I treated the floor with phosphoric acid metal prep and wiped it down with mineral sprits. All that is left to do is some hand work. mostly to scuff shiny spots. Should get it painted next week.
Attached Thumbnails 1990 D250 to W250-100_5179.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-100_5180.jpg  
Old 09-20-2014, 06:15 AM
  #382  
Registered User
 
NJTman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,769
Received 1,637 Likes on 1,112 Posts
Originally Posted by mknittle
This morning I treated the floor with phosphoric acid metal prep and wiped it down with mineral sprits. All that is left to do is some hand work. mostly to scuff shiny spots. Should get it painted next week.
FWIW,

Remove the mineral spirits.... it will cause problems with the paint adhesion. Yes, I've experienced this, and caused myself headaches by using it.


Clean the surfaces with denatured alcohol. Leaves no residue, and helps adhesion of the paint.


After using the phosphoric acid, you're not supposed to use any cleaner other than a damp sponge, than a nice clean dry rag. Trace amounts of the phosphoric acid remain and act as a future rust inhibitor under the primer.

At least that's what it says to do in the instruction sheets of my Ospho.
Old 09-20-2014, 08:48 AM
  #383  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
Originally Posted by NJTman
FWIW,

Remove the mineral spirits.... it will cause problems with the paint adhesion. Yes, I've experienced this, and caused myself headaches by using it.


Clean the surfaces with denatured alcohol. Leaves no residue, and helps adhesion of the paint.


After using the phosphoric acid, you're not supposed to use any cleaner other than a damp sponge, than a nice clean dry rag. Trace amounts of the phosphoric acid remain and act as a future rust inhibitor under the primer.

At least that's what it says to do in the instruction sheets of my Ospho.
I just use it as a pre wash. then go over it with acetone.
The problem I have had is the phosphoric acid will flash rust. I also have a couple parts on my jeep that the primer reacted with the acid and need to be re done.
I don't see any problems using a alkyd primer that uses the mineral sprits as a solvent.
If I were using a acrylic enamel or epoxy I would use denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner.


One problem was if I used water(hose) to rinse the floor I would have not only have had rust I would have had water coming out of nooks and crannies for a week. I had this ruin paint jobs too.

P.S I used to do a lot of painting, Cars, trucks, log skidders. what ever paid the bills.
Old 09-20-2014, 09:00 AM
  #384  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
I just read the ingredients in Opso. It has rust inhibiters that the metal prep(phosphoric acid) that I use doesn't have hence the flash rust.
Old 09-21-2014, 07:49 AM
  #385  
Registered User
 
NJTman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,769
Received 1,637 Likes on 1,112 Posts
Originally Posted by mknittle
I just read the ingredients in Opso. It has rust inhibiters that the metal prep(phosphoric acid) that I use doesn't have hence the flash rust.
Yeah, that's why I use it.

I don't use running water. I use a bucket with a dampened sponge, immediately drying after wiping clean.

Ospho, and the other PA's I've used are "self priming", and they require a wipe of water to remove the excess that's left behind. I get the sponge as water free as possible, (as if I was grout finishing a tile floor ) and wipe it and rinse until it's clean on the sponge, immediately drying with a dry terry cloth towel. It gets primed and painted over top.

So far, it seems to work well, but I'm sure you've got it covered..
Old 09-21-2014, 08:59 AM
  #386  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
Originally Posted by NJTman
Yeah, that's why I use it.

I don't use running water. I use a bucket with a dampened sponge, immediately drying after wiping clean.

Ospho, and the other PA's I've used are "self priming", and they require a wipe of water to remove the excess that's left behind. I get the sponge as water free as possible, (as if I was grout finishing a tile floor ) and wipe it and rinse until it's clean on the sponge, immediately drying with a dry terry cloth towel. It gets primed and painted over top.

So far, it seems to work well, but I'm sure you've got it covered..
Sounds like a good method. It very well may be a better way than what I am doing though more expensive . There are so many products out now and arguments for and against them. I think the best method is to go with what works best for you.


I got the way I do it form a guy that builds street rods. Mostly 30s to 50s trucks. He didn't like anything that left rust inhibitors behind . His claim was He occaonally had problems with primer not sticking.
That said I have heard mostly good about Opso.
Old 10-04-2014, 10:56 AM
  #387  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
yesterday I got some done on my twin stick conversion. I took the bend out of the right hand stick and cut the splined part off and welded it on facing the right side. I also cleaned up some old sloppy repairs.
Attached Thumbnails 1990 D250 to W250-100_5244.jpg   1990 D250 to W250-100_5247.jpg  
Old 10-04-2014, 12:04 PM
  #388  
Registered User
 
thrashingcows's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Prince George, BC
Posts: 7,235
Received 1,332 Likes on 862 Posts
That's looks really nice.
Old 10-04-2014, 12:34 PM
  #389  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
mknittle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 4,918
Received 600 Likes on 437 Posts
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
That's looks really nice.
Thanks Brian, I am pretty happy with them so far.
Old 10-05-2014, 06:25 AM
  #390  
Registered User
 
NJTman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Posts: 6,769
Received 1,637 Likes on 1,112 Posts
Originally Posted by mknittle
yesterday I got some done on my twin stick conversion. I took the bend out of the right hand stick and cut the splined part off and welded it on facing the right side. I also cleaned up some old sloppy repairs.
You're fabricating your own ? Cool... I would expect nothing less from you.

BTW, what is your projects name ? We had moonshine before this one... what's this one called ?

Cali Rust Free beauty ?


I emailed that company that makes the twin stick, previously mentioned here somewhere, but they never replied back.


Quick Reply: 1990 D250 to W250



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:40 PM.